New to knife making need info.

Shift

Shift

Joined
Jun 3, 2012
Messages
169
Hey all I am new to knife making and wanted to ask your opinions on some things. First off I know this has been asked many times but freshly starting out other than a very good grinder what would make my life the easiest and be the most beneficial way to spend my money? For example should I go ahead and buy a mill? I am mainly interested in making folders but I am sure I will make many fixed blades learning to grind. Secondly I have been thinking of taking classes with ABS but have recently found a maker with 30 years of experience in my area (100 miles away). The ABS classes are out of state and last 2 weeks therefore I will have to stay in hotel etc. For all general purposes I realize you learn the most just from experience so my question is if you were me would you go for the classes or try to get the experienced maker in my area to teach me the basics? Thank all of you for your time and I apologize for the long post.

Thanks
 
It would really help us if you told us about your background in life, budget, ect. There also might be maker closer than the one you talked about who willing to meet with you. However, we have to know a general location. No exact coordinates, just a city close-by. Just let us know a little more about you. We will be able to help you much more than we are able to now.
 
Sorry for the lack of info. I live in extreme southeast Oklahoma. Closest decent sized town is Ft. Smith, AR.
As far as budget I am not rich by any means but can get whatever equipment will be necessary to get a good start I don't like doing anything half way. Id say just getting started I would be looking to spend 5 to 10k.
I know the better the equipment the easier things are but I don't mind working harder to save some cash either. I work as a cnc machinist and have a general background in construction oriented work. Again I appreciate any info and am open to all.
 
Also I am mainly interested I'm making blades via stock removal for the time being.
 
I believe you are "set to go" in attitude and expectations. I do suggest you read all the stickies on the start of this forum. Now for a couple of things. You can't go wrong with a KMG grinder. No, I don't own one but the opinion on these is very high. As well there are others to look at. I have a Bee Product machine made in Canada and a clone I made up. It's much like a Wilton but with very stable construction. I have run the one for over 25 years without a problem; the clone for only 15. Yes this is the heart of a stock removal shop. Liner locking knives are all I make and these with variable speed drives work well for me. One has a 10" wheel and the other has a flat platen r. My best to you one what can be a most personal rewarding challenge ! To see some of my folders you can go to the customknifegallery.com Frank
 
Wow Frank your knives are amazing. I have been looking at the KMG and also the NWG however my father is a good welder and I have toyed with the possibility of making one or atleast some additional platens. I have been wanting to start for quite sometime and am just bow where I can financially. Also due to my work I have a lot of things available to me such as hardness testing. Frank you said you only make liner locks which I'm also interested in. Do you think Bob Terzuolas book on the subject would be worth the 250 dollars they are now fetching?
 
In. SE Ok you are close to some fine knife makers and very close to Old Washington Arkansas, home of the ABS school.
I highly recommend you look into those classes if you have any interest in forging at all.
If you ever get up to NW OK give a shout.

Greg
 
Shift said:
Wow Frank your knives are amazing. I have been looking at the KMG and also the NWG however my father is a good welder and I have toyed with the possibility of making one or atleast some additional platens. I have been wanting to start for quite sometime and am just bow where I can financially. Also due to my work I have a lot of things available to me such as hardness testing. Frank you said you only make liner locks which I'm also interested in. Do you think Bob Terzuolas book on the subject would be worth the 250 dollars they are now fetching?
Click to expand...

It's the best book I've read on the subject,

Search online and you can find a PDF scan, use that to decide whether or not to buy.

As for buying a mill, Since you are a machinist, I think you can put it off and slip in some government jobs when you need to.


You've got the skills to build a grinder, look for KMG clone plans.
NWG is not as heavy as a KMG.
 
I will for sure go with the KMG or something similar then if it is the better of the two. I would like to go to the classes especially for the money (850) for the two week introduction class but I also have to factor in the loss time at work. Has anyone gone to the class that could confirm they teach about the geometry of frame locks? Also is a 1.5 horse enough for my grinder or should I go ahead and go for a bigger one?
 
Shift said:
I will for sure go with the KMG or something similar then if it is the better of the two. I would like to go to the classes especially for the money (850) for the two week introduction class but I also have to factor in the loss time at work. Has anyone gone to the class that could confirm they teach about the geometry of frame locks? Also is a 1.5 horse enough for my grinder or should I go ahead and go for a bigger one?
Click to expand...

Rob Frink is the maker of the KMG
There is a post on BF somewhere where he mentions that 1.5 is the most popular seller because it can be done without 220v power.

The makers that want more power are usually doing large flat grinds trying to taper tangs and such.
It comes down to surface area and belt pressure.

With folders I bet 1.5 hp is plenty.
 
A good drill press if you don't have one will be a major help. I'd rather have a drill press then a grinder to start with. A metal cutting bandsaw would be a nice addition too, it wouldn't have to be a big one either; a portaband in a stand would work nicely.

For folders 1.5HP would be plenty, if you have 220v power and you think you might want to make larger blades then you might want more. Variable speed from a VFD will be a big help.

Here's a link to Bob's book, scan though it if you want and see if you need a hardcopy: https://rapidshare.com/#!download|483p2|192044841|Mchnry_s_Handbook_27th_Edition.zip|20993|0|0

Cheers
 
Thanks for the compliment Shift. I have been at this for many years -- say over 35. The truth is I am a very slow learner and of course many years ago I didn't have a computer and all THIS help wasn't around, I bet. This is a super site, witout a doubt !!! Did you accsess any of the entries on making liner locks in this forum? Some I know and have been into are very good. I can't give you a link. I'm that computer iliterate. The no weld grinder is good and of course can be welded up. As well there is one called grinder in a box that is looking good from here. Enter grinders in the search box. I'm sure you will be amazed at what what you find. Travis has a deluxe job that you can even use as a surface grinder. I used to wish I had a surface grinder. Now I figure it would just be a slower way to do it. Frank
 
G. Shahan said:
In. SE Ok you are close to some fine knife makers and very close to Old Washington Arkansas, home of the ABS school.
I highly recommend you look into those classes if you have any interest in forging at all.
If you ever get up to NW OK give a shout.

Greg
Click to expand...

Thanks for the invite Greg. Do you know any makers in southeastern oklahoma or in southwestern AR that might be willing to help me for a price of course? If you think you might please pass on my contact info to them or vice versa. jwhite918@hotmail.com

Thank you sir and keep up the good work.
 
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Shift said:
Thanks a lot man I really appreciate the link and all the help I have a mill and am now looking for a band saw. Will a band saw be sufficient enough to cut the titanium for the lock side? I know from being a machinist it is very hard to cut. Also what would be the best reasonable priced tool for cutting out the lock itself other than a mill?
Click to expand...


So you have a mill, or you don't?

A bandsaw, or good hacksaw will cut Ti
It's 6Al4V grade 5


Read the book, it's a really clear machinist based approach.

He uses a slitting saw to create the long lock bar cut, a bandsaw to cut the end free, then grinds the lock to the right length


If you've got a mill- no problems.
You could use a slit saw to do bot cuts instead of eye-balling the bandsaw cut.


And this book is current and cheaper, but I've not read it.
It involves milling a clearance into the liner instead of using a washer like Bob does.
41Ax35xK94L._SL500_.jpg
 
I have read it, and it is very good. It does rely heavily on a mill, which, if you have one, will help a lot. It is also significantly cheaper than $250.
 
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