New to knives, getting discouraged sharpening.

G

greg1

Joined
Nov 6, 2010
Messages
16
As i said, I'm new to knives. I'm getting discouraged in my attempts to sharpen. I using a stone that my dad gave me, but it doesn't say what grit it is, and i Don't seem to get getting results.

I did successfully sharpen my Buck BLW folder. I basically rough-housed it into submission cause it was a cheap blade. I pushed as hard as I could for quite a long time, and I made the original cutting surface "bigger" or "less steep" in the process. It's pretty darn sharp now but not razor sharp, cuts paper nicely.

However, I can't do this technique on my CS Recon 1 or my KaBar 1245 because of the coating/paint on the blades. I know I'll ruin it by roughhousing.

So, if I want to set myself up to sharpen properly, what are some options available to me in a medium sized city? I have things like walmart and canadian tire and some other good stores. But I went looking and couldn't really find what I was looking for. Mainly cause I don't know what I'm looking for.

Someone told me speedysharps were good? Anyone think so?

I think I might cave in and order some stones of differing grits, but I don't know where to start.

I know I'll be told to search, and i tried, but I find the search function on forums sucks. They return results for topics that might have the word "sharpen" ONCE in 50 pages. wtf.

My cold steel recon 1 came from the factory so insanely sharp that I'm pretty sure it defies the laws of physics. I just want a pro to tell me how to emulate that on my other blades. I have no idea.
 
I had a hard time with sharpening using stones and rods when I was younger. It was much, much easier when I got a Sharpmaker for $40 or so. After a little while I got a few bench stones of my own and it was easy as can be.

You should never have to put a lot of effort or force into it and it's definitely wrong even though nobody can see exactly what you are doing. You can order the Sharpmaker online or get a starter Lansky system in Wal-mart or another store perhaps - make it easier on your self for now.
 
First off welcome to Bladeforums :thumbup:

Roughhousing isn't the way to go, a gentle hand, patience, and practice will produce exceptional results.

There are too many sharpening systems and techniques to go into detail in one post. Most of them will work well if used correctly and with some practice.

Do a google search and a youtube search on knife sharpening. You will come up with a ton of information on different equipment and techniques, as well as grind types, edge angles, etc etc etc.

After you research a bit, and watch a bunch of sharpening videos, the members here will answer questions and provide opinions and insight based on personal experience.

You will get much more useful information here if you can first narrow down for yourself, which system(s) or techniques you are most interested in trying.

Kevin
 
go to the maintenance/tinkering forum under related. looks like you will be using the freehand technique. there are plenty of good tricks over there. i use freehad on stones as well. you dont have to push to hard, just enough to know your making full contact. you might want to practice on your crappy knives before you good ones.

i had to work up some brass ones to sharpen my umnumzaan freehand. its a pretty special piece to me
 
Yeah, like he said, heavy pressure is not good. You will just roll the edge, and or wear off more metal than necessary.
Freehand sharpening on a stone is more difficult than it appears. If you keep changing the angle, it will never get sharp, you can just be wasting your time, effort, and blade.
The Sharpmaker, Lansky type devices will allow anyone to get precise angles and hair shaving sharpness.
Another option is the sandpaper on mousepad technique. It takes some technique, but has little up front cost. And, you can get sandpaper at Walmart, or anywhere.
If you search You Tube and Zknives, and other search engines, you can find lots of info out there.
Again, heavy pressure on any of these methods, devices, etc.. is incorrect. Let the stone, ceramic, or sandpaper do the work.
 
There are many members here with more skill than I posses. My method for a knife with a rounded edge= Any knife sharpening system that will provide accurate edge angles is good for starters. Won't get hair popping sharp but you will have your V edge. From there I switch to free hand (it takes practice). Almost everyone here will give you a different method for free hand, I lay the knife flat on the stone and rotate slowly till I can’t see any space between the stone and the edge. Now you know the angle you need to hold. Go slow, maintain your angles and don't apply to much pressure. For starting out, count the # of strokes on each side. After a while you will get a feel for it. I finish with a leather strop but just using the stones will get you hair popping sharp.






Or just invest in some paper wheels
 
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I think at this point, you'd do well to just hang around for a while, and read the threads here for some inspiration:

Maintenance, Tinkering & Embellishment

There are a LOT of possibilities for methods & systems. The same fundamental principles apply to all of them:

1. Maintain a consistent angle.
2. Use LIGHT pressure (let the grit do the work).
3. Be PATIENT. Take your time. If you rush it, you'll be disappointed in the results.

If you don't want to spend a lot of money, and are looking for tools & materials that're easy to find just about anywhere, you might read up on convexing, using sandpaper on a soft backing (mousepad, leather, notepad, etc.). The technique is relatively easy, compared to other methods, and all of the materials are readily available & inexpensive.
 
Although its hard to get it right, freehand is definately the way to go as far as I'm concerned. It took me years to get it right, but it was worth it. I learned a few cheats along the way too. First, I bought a small round file and use that to get a rough edge, then follow up with a medium or fine grit stone. Make sure you use plenty of oil. I've found that vegetable oil works good. If I want to get a real fine edge, I use 1000 grit sandpaper, or finer if I can find it, on a sanding block and use that just like a stone. You really don't need it to get razor sharp, unless you plan on shaving with it. I have 3 800 grit stones and those are all I've ever needed to put a good working edge on my knives.

I should also point out that the type of shapening system you end up using depends on the type of cutting edge your knife has. As in, is it concave, confex or flat grind? Does it only have straight edges or does it have a lot of curve? (Freehand is best for curved blades, IMHO.)
 
use tape to protect your finish, don't hesitate, Use a consistent angle, and you should be fine.

personally i have a 1$ stone and an old leather belt, the only knife I've not been able to sharpen is from Pakistan...
 
Yeah I saw that Carter video. Very interesting, and it demonstrates the principle that the stone isn't really what matters, it's the technique.

But it seems like with my CS Trailhawk, I can go on my stone for an hour and never really get it any sharper. I think it's because, as mentioned above, I'm using inconsistent angles with each stroke.

When stroping, can I use just any old leather belt? Do I "need" compound?

What's the best around the house type of finishing surface? A leather belt? Damn I wish I could get my blades as sharp as my CS recon 1.

I guess I'm just getting frustrated cause, I look at my CS Recon 1 and I'm afraid to use it. I've found myself a couple times now pulling out my Buck BLW because I don't want to ruin the Recon's razor sharpness. Mostly because I know that once it's gone, I'll never be able to get it back by myself.
 
greg1 said:
So, if I want to set myself up to sharpen properly, what are some options available to me in a medium sized city? I have things like walmart and canadian tire and some other good stores. But I went looking and couldn't really find what I was looking for. Mainly cause I don't know what I'm looking for..
Click to expand...

I went from zero to very good with a two DMT Diafolds (any hardware store should have them)

I went from zero to very very good with $6 worth of sandpaper, and an old neoprene thigh wrap.
 
the best trick i can give you at this point is to put some black marker on your bevels.

just color your bevel and make a stroke on your stone, you'll see axactly where you grind and adjust your angle. this is only worth it if you've not modified the factory grind too much, then just take your time, alternate sides frequently , with a light touch ... this is the basic.
 
I've been doing some research on the mousepad sharpening technique. Just wondering, is there a certain type of paper to use? Like, is there a paper made for "metals" that I should be looking for? Or is there such a thing? Or do I just go buy the friggin stuff?

Also, what grits are good. Some guys use 2000 to get a super sharp edge, some use like 400 and 600... I guess you can just start at 400 and go as high as you want to to get sharper and sharper?
 
If the edge is really dull start at 200, then 3, then 400 . Watch as much video as you can and you'll understand what they're talking about . DM
 
greg1 said:
I've been doing some research on the mousepad sharpening technique. Just wondering, is there a certain type of paper to use? Like, is there a paper made for "metals" that I should be looking for? Or is there such a thing? Or do I just go buy the friggin stuff?

Also, what grits are good. Some guys use 2000 to get a super sharp edge, some use like 400 and 600... I guess you can just start at 400 and go as high as you want to to get sharper and sharper?
Click to expand...

Lots of people here use the 'wet/dry' sandpaper (black/grey stuff) which, as the name implies, can be used with or without water. I think most folks prefer to use it dry (including myself). The nice thing with the wet/dry, you can rinse it off periodically to remove the swarf (metal particles removed from the blade). You can get it at Home Depot, Lowe's, Walmart, etc. I usually buy the 'assortment' packs (220, 320 and 400 grit). That'll give you something to start with, you can actually accomplish quite a bit with just that.

For relatively light sharpening using the sandpaper, you might be OK with the 400 to start. On the other hand, if you need to do some fairly major reshaping of the bevel, start at a lower grit (such as 220). Form a burr on the edge with that, then you can progress to the next grit. With each successive step in grit, you should focus on cleaning up the burr and refining the scratch pattern on the bevel. Gradually lighten your touch as you go. Take your time, and don't be afraid to stop frequently (every 3 - 5 strokes) and feel/test/inspect the edge, so you're sure you're still progressing in a SHARPER direction. Don't want to undo your previous good efforts by taking it too far, not to mention removing more metal than is necessary. This is especially important with the coarsest grit, when you want to go just far enough just to establish a burr along the full length of the cutting edge. Taking the coarse grit beyond that will simply be removing excess metal.

The best thing to do initially, would be to test out the paper (and your technique) on a cheap knife. That'll give you some feel for how much metal will be taken off with each of the grits. Bear in mind, with higher quality steels, the metal may not necessarily come off as quickly, as with cheaper stuff.
 
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Spyderco Tri-Angle Sharpmaker around $60 from online retailers like Warriors and Wonders (in BC).
 
The most important thing you need to do is understand the basic theory of sharpening. You need to understand a bit about metallurgy, angles, and how the different "grits" of sharpening stones and sandpaper effect the steel. You need to know what a "burr" is. Once you get an idea of what needs to happen to the steel to make and keep a knife sharp, then you should start figuring out what methods you want to try.

I have different grits of japanese water stone, and I finish my edges on a leather strop. I also sharpen my convex edges on sandpaper and mousepad. I have no experience with guided systems or mechanized equipment, but I'd like to try both someday.

Knife sharpening is 95% skill, and 5% the tools you use. Keep practicing and you will get better, sharper edges, no matter what sharpening medium you have. It takes a while to figure out your angles, pressure, and general technique, but keep practicing and you will get there.
 
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