New to knives, getting discouraged sharpening.

Okay so heres an update. I took my buck BLW and I worked it on a metal pole to dull it as much as I could...

Then, I worked it back a little with a speedy sharp. Then I moved down to 320 grit paper, then to 600 grit. The knife is back to the point that is can get through some paper with relative ease. However, I cannot seem to get it much sharper than this. I want a razor sharp knife.

Do I need to get a strop and some compound? Can these things be found at walmart or home depot?
 
Don't feel alone, I'm having the same problem. I have a few cheap knives I got that came dull and I can't seem to sharpen them very well at all. I have 3 or 4 different sharpeners that I have tried. One of those pocket sharpeners (Gerber maybe?), a sharpening stone and a diamond rod.

I gave up so far. I won't dare touch my Spyderco's. I want to learn on some cheapo knives before I mess with anything that cost over $50.
 
Don't feel alone, I'm having the same problem. I have a few cheap knives I got that came dull and I can't seem to sharpen them very well at all. I have 3 or 4 different sharpeners that I have tried. One of those pocket sharpeners (Gerber maybe?), a sharpening stone and a diamond rod.

I gave up so far. I won't dare touch my Spyderco's. I want to learn on some cheapo knives before I mess with anything that cost over $50.
Yea, hehe best to ruin a cheapo knife!

I just see these youtube guys and they make their knives razor sharp in like 20 passes over some sand paper. I don't get it.
 
Okay so heres an update. I took my buck BLW and I worked it on a metal pole to dull it as much as I could...

Then, I worked it back a little with a speedy sharp. Then I moved down to 320 grit paper, then to 600 grit. The knife is back to the point that is can get through some paper with relative ease. However, I cannot seem to get it much sharper than this. I want a razor sharp knife.

Do I need to get a strop and some compound? Can these things be found at walmart or home depot?

There's a fair possibility that you have at least a bit of a burr on your edge. If so, removing it would be the next thing to do. You mentioned that the edge can 'get through some paper with relative ease.' There are things you can look for, while cutting the paper, to detect the presence of a burr.

Does the blade catch, or snag, at any point along the edge while slicing the paper? If so, the areas on the edge that are snagging need to be checked for a burr. A burr is basically a very thin, ragged sliver of metal hanging from the edge. Usually, it'll be folded or bent to one side of the blade or the other. Sometimes, you can feel it with the edge of your fingernail, if you 'scrape' your fingernail towards the edge. If a significant burr is there, your fingernail will 'catch' on it. You might also find it by using the tip of a toothpick in the same manner (scrape along the side of the blade, towards the edge). Another way is to use a damp paper towel or a cotton ball or Q-tip, and just gently rub it along the edge. A burr will usually 'grab' the paper or cotton fibers, and you'll see them dangling from the edge at the burr location.

Assuming a burr is there, it can often be removed by cutting hard into a piece of hardwood. The wood will sometimes grab the burr and break it off. If the burr is more stubborn, it might be worth going back to the sandpaper (use your finishing grit) and, using VERY LIGHT pressure, strop the blade on the sandpaper. The idea is to gradually reduce the size of the burr that's there, without creating more burrs. After this, would be a good time for a leather strop & compound. For now, a piece of leather belt or other such item might do. You can also find scrap leather at craft stores (like Hobby Lobby) or at a Tandy Leather store, if there's one nearby. The leather can be glued to pretty much any flat piece of wood.

Compound (green) can often be found at woodworking supply shops. Woodcraft (stores & online) also carry it. Other compounds (black, white, etc.) can be found at hardware stores, Home Depot, Lowe's, Sears, etc.
 
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I'm not a master, but I used stones for thirty years with good results, but I recently discovered and really like the Spyderco Tri-Angle Sharpener ($50). It comes with medium and fine stones, which are fine, but you definitely have to get the diamond rods (another $50) for reprofiling. It comes with a DVD, which is good, but what it doesn't stress sufficiently is the necessity for PATIENCE--i.e., thousands of strokes or several hours to reprofile and get a knife edge where you want it. I can't say it'll match the CS factory edge, but it's better than just hair shaving sharp--it yields what I call a "sticky" razor edge. I don't have experience with other sharpening systems, but I can say the Tri-Angle system easily turns the novice into a damned good knife sharpener.
 
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