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guitarguy1

Joined
Apr 14, 2009
Messages
96
Howdy folks,

I am currently going through Gunsmithing school, and had an idea for my custom project build-up for the final grade. I'm planning on a mirror polished 1911. I wanted to add in a nicely built, mirrored knife where the knife handles match the pistols grip wood. I was also planning on bluing the knife along with the pistol. I figured it would be a good way to say thanks to my father for helping me through school to build a pistol/knife combo in a nice presentation style wooden box I'll be building.

I was wondering if anyone here had had any experience with blued knives, or alternative finishes in general. I am assuming that you have to oil and keep the blade clean and well lubricated the same as a gun to prevent rusting. I was planning on making the blade out of railroad spikes, as I've heard that they make nice blades. Is this true or is it more of one of those rumors that goes around all groups and communities with no real ties to reality?

I really have a rough idea on whats going on with the build, but if you fine folks could be kind enough to maybe throw a few pointers I would greatly appreciate the help.

Thank you all in advance,
Sam
 
Definitely read through the stickies - TONS of info. Most people will say reailroad spikes make interesting centerpieces and look cool, but likely don't have edge holding capabilities that a user knife should. Lots of people have posted different ways of treating knives - bluing, parkerizing, cerakote/durakote/gunkote, forced patina... Each have their individual "character" so it really depends on what you're going for.

When you mentioned pairing it with a 1911 it made me think of Mark Knapp's Combat Survivor project...

Good luck, and post pics when you decide what to do!
 
guitarguy1 said:
Howdy folks,

I am currently going through Gunsmithing school, and had an idea for my custom project build-up for the final grade. I'm planning on a mirror polished 1911. I wanted to add in a nicely built, mirrored knife where the knife handles match the pistols grip wood. I was also planning on bluing the knife along with the pistol. I figured it would be a good way to say thanks to my father for helping me through school to build a pistol/knife combo in a nice presentation style wooden box I'll be building.

I was wondering if anyone here had had any experience with blued knives, or alternative finishes in general. I am assuming that you have to oil and keep the blade clean and well lubricated the same as a gun to prevent rusting.

I was planning on making the blade out of railroad spikes, as I've heard that they make nice blades. Is this true or is it more of one of those rumors that goes around all groups and communities with no real ties to reality?

I really have a rough idea on whats going on with the build, but if you fine folks could be kind enough to maybe throw a few pointers I would greatly appreciate the help.

Thank you all in advance,
Sam
Click to expand...

I think that would be a nice project

Rail road spikes, even the HC marked high carbon ones are not hardenable.
Lots of people make them, I think because they can be had for free.


Have a read of this post.
Any non stainless steel, ie carbon or toolsteel should blue. (low chromium)
Of course I would run test pieces through heat treat, then bluing.

Which bluing technique will you use, hot blue ?
What is the temperature ?

The bluing temperature must be at, or below the tempering temperature, or the blueing will make that knife even softer than you wanted.

What equipment for heat treating do you have access to?
A temperature controlled kiln?
 
By the way, I think a knife/1911 combo, finished the same (mirrored, blued, parked, etc...) with matching grips/scales would be a phenomenal project/gift!
 
I've put this together to answer most of a new maker’s questions on how to make a knife. I'm sure it will help you too. How to Instructions for making a Knife.

The Count's Standard Reply to New Knifemakers V22

The answer to a 13 year old student is different than to a 40 year old engineer.
We may recommend a local supplier, you may have a helpful neighbour, or local Hammerin; but that depends on where you are. We have members worldwide.
Please fill out your profile with your location (Country, State, City), age, education, employment, hobbies.

Look at the threads stickied at the top; many are expired, but not all.

The basic process in the simplest terms
Absolute Cheapskate Way to Start Making Knives-Printable PDF-Right Click and Save
Absolute Cheapskate Way to Start Making Knives-Website


Web Tutorials
Detailed instructions by Stacy E. Apelt

The Things I Advise New Knife Makers Against-Printable PDF

Handle Tutorial - Nick Wheeler-PDF

http://www.engnath.com/manframe.htm

Books
A list of books and videos

BladeForums - E-books or Google books


I like:
David Boye-Step by Step Knifemaking
Tim McCreight-Custom Knifemaking: 10 Projects from a Master Craftsman
These are clear, well organized, widely available and inexpensive too.

Knife Design:

Think thin. A paring knife slices, an axe doesn't.
Forget swords, Saw-tooth spines, guthooks, crazy grinds and folders for your first knife.

Start with a drawing.
Show it to us, we love to see and comment on photos.
Then make a cardboard cutout template & draw in handles, pins and such
Then make it in wood, paint sticks are free & close to the right size.
Play with that and see if it “feels right”. If it feels right it usually “looks right“

See the Google books thread for Lloyd Harding drawings, the Loveless book & Bob Engnath Patterns. Google books thread

Bob Engnath Patterns compiled into a PDF


Forging Books:
Lorelei Sims-The Backyard Blacksmith
An excellent modern book with colour photos for forging in general - no knifemaking.

Jim Hrisoulas- has 3 books on forging knives. Check for the cheaper paperback editions.
The Complete Bladesmith: Forging Your Way to Perfection
The Pattern-Welded Blade: Artistry in Iron
The Master Bladesmith: Advanced Studies in Steel

Machine Shop Basics -Books:
Elementary Machine Shop Practice-Printable PDF

The Complete Practical Machinist-Printable -1885-PDF
Right Click and save link as.
It’s being reprinted now; you can get it for $20 ish

The $50 knife Shop
It confused me for a long time.
Forging is NOT necessary; you can just file and grind to create a knife (stock removal)

Forget the Goop Quench.
Use commercial quench oil & match oil speed to the steel type; even grocery store canola oil works much better for some steels.

Junkyard steels require skill and experience to identify the steel and heat treat it properly.
Forget about Lawnmower blades and start with a new known steel type.
Good heat treating needs accurate temperature control and full quench.
You can buy proper steel like 1084FG from Aldo very cheaply.

I like cable damascus, but that advanced project has no place in a beginner’s book.

The grinders are the best thing about this book, but there is a huge amount of info for 2x72” belt grinders on the web, including free plans.


Videos

Heat Treating Basics Video-downloadable
Right click and save this. Watch it once a day for 10 days.

Safety-video
Right click and save this. Watch it once a day for 10 days.

Many specific how to knifemaking videos are available, some are better than others.

The best overall Knifemaking video I have seen is
“Steve Johnson-Making a Sub-Hilt Fighter”

Basic Bladesmithing
"Ed Caffrey - Basic Bladesmithing-Full DVD-ISO"

The best video on leather sheath making for beginners that I have seen is
“Custom Knife Sheaths -Chuck Burrows - Wild Rose”
-(Paul Long has 2 videos, his sheath work & videos are fantastic, but more advanced-with inlays, machine stitchers..)

Green Pete's Free Video
Making a Mora bushcraft knife, stock removal, hand tools, neo tribal / unplugged heat treat.
Use a piece of known steel, not a file. I just post this as an example of doing it by hand with few tools.
"Green Pete" posted it free using torrent files.
Be sure to look at the other titles too-The account index has disappeared, but search for LOTS of info. Use the keywords “LurkerLurker torrent” “knifemakerC torrent” and others
Greenpete Knifemaking Basics-on TPB

How to download that video
http://www.utorrent.com/help/guides/beginners-guide

You can see a list of videos and reviews at this rental company; some are worth buying, some renting…
http://smartflix.com/store/category/9/Knifemaking

Draw Filing Demonstration
YouTube video -Draw Filing-for a flat finish

Steel
The “welding steel” at Home Depot / Lowes… is useless for knives.
Forget about lawnmower blades ,files and other unknown junkyard steels.
For all the work involved, it is very cheap to buy and use a known good steel.

If you send out for heat treating, you can use
Oil quenched O1, 1095, 1084
Or air quenched A2, CM154, ATS34, CPM154, 440C, plus many others.

For heat treating yourself with minimal equipment, find some Eutectoid steel.
1084FG sold by Aldo Bruno is formulated for Knifemaking, Cheapest & made for DIY heat-treat.
http://njsteelbaron.com/
Phone # 862-203-8160

1095 is a good carbon steel, but a bad choice for a beginner with limited equipment.
1095 is "Hypereutectioid" and needs very precise temperature control and proper fast quench oil Like Parks 50 or Houghton K Kevin Cashen - 1095 - hypereutectoid steel

If you are sending one or 2 knives out for heat treatment, use 154-CM or CPM-154 and ship it out to TKS -Texas Knifemaker Supply
It's the cheapest way to do 1 or 2 because of HT minimum charges.


You can find a list of suppliers here

Heat Treating
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showpost.php?p=9143684&postcount=7

You can send blades out for heat treating at $10 or $15 per blade for perfect results, and avoid buying the equipment.

Air Hardening Stainless Steel Only
Buck Pau Bos -Be sure to check the Shipping and Price tabs.
http://www.buckknives.com/index.cfm?event=bio.paulBos#
http://www.texasknife.com/vcom/privacy.php#services

Oil Hardening Carbon Steels and Air Hardening Stainless Steel
http://www.petersheattreat.com/cutlery.html
http://www.knifemaker.ca/ (Canadian)


Quenchants for Oil hardening steel
Forget the Goop Quench.
Forget used motor oil, it's toxic and doesn't work that well.

Use commercial quench oil & match oil speed to the steel type;

Even grocery store canola oil works well enough for your first knife-if you use the right steel.

Brine and water are almost free, and technically correct for W1 and "water hardening" steels but a fast oil like Parks 50 and Houghton Houghto Quench K are less likely to give you broken blades.
If you use water or brine, expect to have a cracked or broken blade.
Search the work "tink" for more info


Glue – Epoxy

Use a Fresh package of slow setting, high strength epoxy to attach blades to handles and well as seal out moisture.
Surface Prep is vital, drill tang holes/ grind a hollow, roughen the surfaces with abrasive, blasting is best.
Ensure the surface is clean & no oil including fingerprints. Soap, Acetone & Alcohol, Blasting.
Clamp with moderate pressure= avoid a “glue starved joint” when all the adhesive is squeezed out.
These are well proven.
Brownell's Acraglas
West Systems G Flex
JB Weld


Grinder / Tools

In my opinion, variable speed and a small wheel attachment are essential on a good grinder.
You can almost always improve tracking with more belt tension. It needs to be way tighter than you first think.

Hand Tools
You can do it all by hand with files and abrasive cloth like the Green Pete video.
Files can be made from unhardenable steel, or steel similar to 1095 that needs a difficult HT
Just use 1084 instead of a file.

Photo of a nice bevel filing jig

Entry Level Grinders
Many makers start with the Sears Craftsman 2x42 belt grinder

Low Speed Modification Craftsman 2x42 belt grinder


Commercial Production 2 x 72” Belt Grinder Reviews
http://www.prometheanknives.com/shop-techniques-3/grinders
http://www.cnccookbook.com/CCKnifeMakingGrinders.htm

Mapp arm – Grinder Toolrest


DIY 2 x 72” Belt Grinders

KMG Clone Free Plans
http://www.dfoggknives.com/PDF/GrinderPlans.pdf

NWG No Weld Grinder
http://www.usaknifemaker.com/plans-for-the-no-weld-grinder-sander-nearly-50-pages-p-723.html

EERF Grinder (EERF =“Free” backwards)
http://wilmontgrinders.com/EERFGrinder.aspx
http://blindhogg.com/blueprints.html

Buy the kit
http://polarbearforge.com/grinder_kit.html

What Belts to buy?
http://www.usaknifemaker.com/abrasive-belt-basics-what-kind-should-i-buy-p-1393.html


Safety Equipment
Protect your -Eyes, Ears, Fingers, and Lungs – remove jewellery and put on safety gear.

Respirators
Chronic lung disease and cancer really suck the joy out of life.
Don't believe me? google "Ed Caffrey lung cancer" and see what he has to say about it.

The minimum I would consider are the 3M 7500 and North 7700 silicone half masks with a P100 Filter.
Use a VOC & P100 combo cartridge for protection against acetone and solvents.
There are also prefilters that snap over the main filter for longer life.

For beards, pick one of these
3M PAPR
Resp-O-Rator
3m Breathe Easy
Trend Airshield Pro
Air Cap II


Searching
Search works for ALL users, even unpaid users.
Try it, I’ll bet you’re not the first to ask the question here

This is a special Google page that searches BF only & works better than the forum search.
http://www.google.com/cse/home?cx=011197018607028182644:qfobr3dlcra

V22 Dec 1, 2011.

Countavatar.jpg
 
12345678910 said:
I think that would be a nice project

Rail road spikes, even the HC marked high carbon ones are not hardenable.
Lots of people make them, I think because they can be had for free.


Have a read of this post.
Any non stainless steel, ie carbon or toolsteel should blue. (low chromium)
Of course I would run test pieces through heat treat, then bluing.

Which bluing technique will you use, hot blue ?
What is the temperature ?

The bluing temperature must be at, or below the tempering temperature, or the blueing will make that knife even softer than you wanted.

What equipment for heat treating do you have access to?
A temperature controlled kiln?
Click to expand...

The bluing tanks run at 275 degrees Fahrenheit. It will be immersion blued. I was figuring on hardening and tempering before bluing, as the temp wont get high enough to undo or damage the heat treatment. I'm basing this off of the fact we use these tanks for gun parts which are heat treated and they absolutely cannot mess with the heat treat of the parts as that could easily render the guns unsafe. Plus, Id like to polish and sharpen teh knife before bluing so it will be uniformly black when it is first shown/presented without the sharpening line.


And I've updated my profile, sorry about not having info up, I just got back on here after a few years away.
 
Last edited:
guitarguy1 said:
The bluing tanks run at 275 degrees Fahrenheit. It will be immersion blued. I was figuring on hardening and tempering before bluing, as the temp wont get high enough to undo or damage the heat treatment. I'm basing this off of the fact we use these tanks for gun parts which are heat treated and they absolutely cannot mess with the heat treat of the parts as that could easily render the guns unsafe. Plus, Id like to polish and sharpen teh knife before bluing so it will be uniformly black when it is first shown/presented without the sharpening line.


And I've updated my profile, sorry about not having info up, I just got back on here after a few years away.
Click to expand...

I agree, 275 F is safe.

Knife blades use different steels and are kept at higher hardness than firearms parts - so i wanted to be sure


Any designs in mind so far ?
 
Ah, Pa GSA? If Mark Garrison is still an instructor out there, please send him my regards; and do tell him where you met me, he'll split a side laughing to hear I've pulled a 180 and become a hammerhead.
Likewise, if Don Baughman's still teaching the advanced shotgun tech class--jump on it if you haven't had a chance.

As the Count has stated, using a 275* caustic bath won't touch a tempered blade, but you might be able to get around it using a cold blue solution like Oxpho-blue and reach the same contrast as a hot caustic bath if you're using Caspian. If Dean Batchelder is still teaching at your school, he should be able to tell you about something that would work without risking the blade.

Also, like the Count said, RR spike knives won't harden to a quality edge--however, the McMaster-Carr RR spikes are not only HC, but also have a touch of Vandium (at least the ones I got did). They are NOT easy to work on an faux-vils like HF cast jobs and have to ask what you're planning on hammering it out on.

Last question...20 or 30LPI for the grips and front strap on your 1911, or are you going plain Jane for the front strap?
 
Ed Braun said:
Ah, Pa GSA? If Mark Garrison is still an instructor out there, please send him my regards; and do tell him where you met me, he'll split a side laughing to hear I've pulled a 180 and become a hammerhead.
Likewise, if Don Baughman's still teaching the advanced shotgun tech class--jump on it if you haven't had a chance.

As the Count has stated, using a 275* caustic bath won't touch a tempered blade, but you might be able to get around it using a cold blue solution like Oxpho-blue and reach the same contrast as a hot caustic bath if you're using Caspian. If Dean Batchelder is still teaching at your school, he should be able to tell you about something that would work without risking the blade.

Also, like the Count said, RR spike knives won't harden to a quality edge--however, the McMaster-Carr RR spikes are not only HC, but also have a touch of Vandium (at least the ones I got did). They are NOT easy to work on an faux-vils like HF cast jobs and have to ask what you're planning on hammering it out on.

Last question...20 or 30LPI for the grips and front strap on your 1911, or are you going plain Jane for the front strap?
Click to expand...

Unfortunately, none of those folks are still instructors, unless Don Baughman is a fella who visits to teach a course for a few days. I believe I've heard one of the instructors mention the name Batchelder, but I may be mistaken. If you don't mind me asking, and just out of curiosity, when did you attend PGS?

I was planning on doing a very plain style gun, so no front strap checkering. Ultra high quality wood for the grips, and match the pistol grips to the knife grips. About the only thing I was going to do was get one of the sides of the slide engraved for my dad. Its going to be a show gun, but it's also going to be a tack driver. He has always wanted a 1911, but is the kind of guy that if he can't justify the purchase, he won't buy the item. He rarely, if ever, goes shooting anymore, so this is more of a situation where I can give him something he has always wanted, at a higher quality (Hopefully) then he could purchase for under a significant amount of money. One of the instructors currently there worked on custom 1911 for a manufacturer, so he knows plenty. Another was with Cylinder and Slide, so he is also a wealth of knowledge.

On another 1911 I am planning on going all out custom, with the 30 LPI checkered frontstrap, grasping grooves cut along the length of the slide with shallow grooves, target night sights, the whole she-bang. Ill get pictures up if you folks are interested.

And as far as the knife goes, would you recommend buying a knife blank, or would a bar of 4140 in a 1/4 be a good base for shaping and creating the knife?

12345678910 said:
I agree, 275 F is safe.

Knife blades use different steels and are kept at higher hardness than firearms parts - so i wanted to be sure


Any designs in mind so far ?
Click to expand...

I was thinking about a chute knife I believe it is called, here is a link:

http://www.usaknifemaker.com/images/large/glw-chute-knife_LRG.jpg

It seems like a fairly basic style knife that would lend itself well to a unadorned exterior style handgun. But a mirrored and bluid finish would look very nice, at least that is how it seems to me. If I am missing something that is obvious to experienced builders I would appreciate it if you could point it out to me.

Sam
 
Last edited:
I didn't attend PSG, but had once looked at Yavapai seriously shortly before meeting my wife. I just attended independent courses, lectures, conferences, and so on when I was young and had the gas money. Nowadays signature grade pistolsmithing is in my after retirement plans...
When you say one of the instructors is from C&S, are you talking about Kevin...or Bill. If Bill's teaching a class--GET IN THERE. He's a world class 1911 builder and a gentleman to boot. Speaking of gentlemen, and kits, you never said if you were going Caspian (I know how some schools are picky) or if you've yet to decide--I would suggest Bob Serva and Fusion Firearms for a sort block kit ((mated frame and slide). They're better castings, better machining, and better priced--I believe a full size gov block was about 750.
I would suggest against grip serrations the length of the slide for a couple reasons--one is snag, unless you plan on french flats and chamfering the slide edge, you'll rip up hands and create snags. The second is you're changing harmonics, flex, and cutting close to low tolerance stress zones--you don't want your slide to break. If You're looking to do some cool metalwork, lighten the weight, and add some kind of grip contouring, the mill fluting into the slide.
Check out Bob Miller (millercustom) and Chuck Rogers--they do some wicked work, but like Bob's style more.

If this is your first knife, the blank you posted might help you get the working details out, and give you a basis for making one from scratch for your true custom 1911, especially if you're working with limited tools for this first one.
 
guitarguy1 said:
I was thinking about a chute knife I believe it is called, here is a link:

http://www.usaknifemaker.com/images/large/glw-chute-knife_LRG.jpg

It seems like a fairly basic style knife that would lend itself well to a unadorned exterior style handgun. But a mirrored and bluid finish would look very nice, at least that is how it seems to me. If I am missing something that is obvious to experienced builders I would appreciate it if you could point it out to me.


And as far as the knife goes, would you recommend buying a knife blank, or would a bar of 4140 in a 1/4 be a good base for shaping and creating the knife?
Sam
Click to expand...

I love chute knives & I think it would pair up nicely with a .45
The chute knife pattern is a Bob Loveless pattern.
http://www.hoffmanknives.com/hk_1mainframe.htm?hk_gallery_knife-wsh7-2-08.htm~main

I think hollow grinds are tough to start with, but you may have a different experience.
It looks simple, but it is tough to master a very thin hollow grind, especially getting that swedge to match.
I can't do that.


You will have to solder the guard and the guard pins, something you are probably good at.
416 Stainless and pins are popular for guards.
Again you will want low temp solder like stay-brite 435 degree F



These videos have helped me & directly relate to your project.
“Steve Johnson-Making a Sub-Hilt Fighter”
"The Fine Art of Knife Hollow Grinding-Johnny Stout"
"The Loveless Legend-How to Make Custom Knives-Loveless-Merritt"

You can buy, rent, or download them.


Have a look in the Loveless book too
the photos are based on 1/4 inch graph paper
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/s...-making-books-on-Google?p=8628249#post8628249



That specific blank you have linked to is 440C
It is stainless and will not blue like you want it to.

4140 is not a blade steel.

If you outsource your heat treat, you can use most any blade steel.
I like starting with precision ground stock.
Others will have more experience on which steel will blue nicely.
Have a look at O1, A2

If the usaknifemaker wasn't sold out of the 1095 ones, I'd have a look at that.
You can likely order a half dozen from a waterjetter.

If the blade turns out well, think about Paul Long for a sheath.
He does a very nice job.
 
Last edited:
Ed Braun said:
I didn't attend PSG, but had once looked at Yavapai seriously shortly before meeting my wife. I just attended independent courses, lectures, conferences, and so on when I was young and had the gas money. Nowadays signature grade pistolsmithing is in my after retirement plans...
When you say one of the instructors is from C&S, are you talking about Kevin...or Bill. If Bill's teaching a class--GET IN THERE. He's a world class 1911 builder and a gentleman to boot. Speaking of gentlemen, and kits, you never said if you were going Caspian (I know how some schools are picky) or if you've yet to decide--I would suggest Bob Serva and Fusion Firearms for a sort block kit ((mated frame and slide). They're better castings, better machining, and better priced--I believe a full size gov block was about 750.
I would suggest against grip serrations the length of the slide for a couple reasons--one is snag, unless you plan on french flats and chamfering the slide edge, you'll rip up hands and create snags. The second is you're changing harmonics, flex, and cutting close to low tolerance stress zones--you don't want your slide to break. If You're looking to do some cool metalwork, lighten the weight, and add some kind of grip contouring, the mill fluting into the slide.
Check out Bob Miller (millercustom) and Chuck Rogers--they do some wicked work, but like Bob's style more.

If this is your first knife, the blank you posted might help you get the working details out, and give you a basis for making one from scratch for your true custom 1911, especially if you're working with limited tools for this first one.
Click to expand...

No, it's not Kevin or Bill, one of the instructors took classes through C&S, and worked there for a bit as I understand it.

I am planning on going with a Caspian frame and slide as I can get a custom serial number on the frame which I want so it can have my fathers initials, just another touch I think he'll appreciate.

As for the slide serrations, I was planning on light passes, more of a shadow line then a deep groove. They will be squared off cuts, tilted at a 45 degree angle running form the rear of the slide forward toward the muzzle. They will be chamfered so as to create a no snag with positive grip when you need to rack the slide manually. The slide will be blasted, and then polished so the outer part of the grooves are shined while the inner part is a dull finish. I'm picturing something along the lines of how a tiger shark looks. Just much, much blacker after I leave it bluing for some extra time. It's just an idea running around in my empty little head.
 
Last edited:
12345678910 said:
I love chute knives & I think it would pair up nicely with a .45
The chute knife pattern is a Bob Loveless pattern.
http://www.hoffmanknives.com/hk_1mainframe.htm?hk_gallery_knife-wsh7-2-08.htm~main

I think hollow grinds are tough to start with, but you may have a different experience.
It looks simple, but it is tough to master a very thin hollow grind, especially getting that swedge to match.
I can't do that.


You will have to solder the guard and the guard pins, something you are probably good at.
416 Stainless and pins are popular for guards.
Again you will want low temp solder like stay-brite 435 degree F



These videos have helped me & directly relate to your project.
“Steve Johnson-Making a Sub-Hilt Fighter”
"The Fine Art of Knife Hollow Grinding-Johnny Stout"
"The Loveless Legend-How to Make Custom Knives-Loveless-Merritt"

You can buy, rent, or download them.


Have a look in the Loveless book too
the photos are based on 1/4 inch graph paper
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/s...-making-books-on-Google?p=8628249#post8628249



That specific blank you have linked to is 440C
It is stainless and will not blue like you want it to.

4140 is not a blade steel.

If you outsource your heat treat, you can use most any blade steel.
I like starting with precision ground stock.
Others will have more experience on which steel will blue nicely.
Have a look at O1, A2

If the usaknifemaker wasn't sold out of the 1095 ones, I'd have a look at that.
You can likely order a half dozen from a waterjetter.

If the blade turns out well, think about Paul Long for a sheath.
He does a very nice job.
Click to expand...


Thank you for the information, that knife is pretty close to what I was looking to try and make, only blued with wood grips to match the gun.

After looking through his website, I have to say that there are some truly beautiful works of art in there.
 
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