New to this forum and need some help.

[NYknifeboy]

Hey everyone! I am new to this forum but I have been making knives for a couple years now. most of my knives have been fixed blades just very recently I decided to start learning how to do folders. So first was just a regular liner lock. Another maker I know that has been making knives for a very long time suggested that on the first one or 2 to make the liners out of aluminum as kinda a prototype thing as its easier and quicker to work with than titanium and if I junk it up beyond repair its cheaper loosing a dollar or 2 of aluminum than the titanium. so as he suggested that is what I did on the first two. Then I used Titanium on the next one and it actually came out pretty good. So then I decided I want to make some "flipper" knives. So I got a video of how to do it with LOOSE bearings like the IKBS system. I drilled the pivot hole for a 1/4 pivot and then used a 3/8th counter bore to make the pockets in the blade and liners for the bearing balls wich were 1/16th balls. So first thing it was a PAIN dealing with the loose balls for sure and it doesn't open as well as it should. I have seen most flipper will open all the way with just a tap on the guard where it comes out the spine of the handle when closed. So this one only opens about 3/4 of the way by just taping the guard. I can get it to open all the way if I flick my wrist while I tap the guard. So anyway I decided to get some caged bearings so I don't have to play with all those tiny loose balls. I got the counter bores to match the 2 sizes of caged bearings I got from jantz. the 2 sizes I got were the #1 that fits a 3/16th pivot and #3 that fits a 1/4 pivot. I just started working on one I am going to use the 1/4 pivot bearings. so really guys I am just looking for any advice anyone might have to help me get better success on this one than the last one I did. On another note I have thought about in the future using a spring to make a spring assisted knife however I was told by a couple people that you NEED a mill to make the pockets for the spings. Is this true or has anyone found a way to do it WITHOUT a mill????? Thanks guys I would appreciate any help! Again I am new to this forum so I hope I put this post in the right place if not I am sorry just let me know and I wont do it again. THANKS AGAIN!

 

[Esav Benyamin]

Welcome to Bladeforums!

I moved this to Shop Talk.

 

[Drew Riley]

A cheaper alternative to titanium that would still yield a usable liner would be stainless. Not as cheap as aluminum, but kind of an in between.

Now, as for your question: If a folder (especially one on bearings) isn't opening smoothly, then there's probably a hole that's not round, a part that's not flat and/or parallel, or a hole that's drilled out of square/not perpendicular to the face of the material.

When dealing with folders, you're working with tolerances in the thousandths of an inch or better. Make sure your drill press is dialed in, use quality reamers for final hole dimensions, and make sure everything is flat and parallel (use a surface plate and a quality mic or calipers to check).

Now, do you need a mill, surface grinder, etc... to make a working folder or assisted opener? Not necessarily, but it does often make things a lot easier. My advice would be to stick with simple designs until you get those tightened up and dialed in, then expand to more complex designs like flippers and spring assisted.

Also check out Bob Terzuola's book on making folders, if you haven't already.

 

[NYknifeboy]

Thanks seems I will just have to double and triple check everything through the build. I am going to get some stainless to so I can use that until I get everything dialed in and figured out then ill switch back over to the titanium. either way thanks for the advice!