New to Wicked Edge, need a couple of questions answered.

I have had an angle cube since I got the system, and when I said the edge I meant the grind I suppose, and I know not to hit the shoulder haha that's why I thought it very odd that while both sides were set to the same angle the left was hitting on the grind while the right was trying to make a new, much larger grind to compensate for the angle I was asking of it. All and all when I get some more time I will try and follow cbwx34's advice about bringing both the angles back and working the grind evenly to where you want it, unfortunately it sounds like I'll have to invest in the 50/80 stones now...
 
So I update with good news & another question, the good news, sharpened one of my pocket knives and boy is it screaming sharp, but I do have another question, I have a SOG Snarl (The Brous Silent Soldier production version) and it did not come as sharp as I wanted so I put it in the WE and set it to 18 on both sides, I didn't even begin sharpening and I noticed that the stones were below the grind, so I dropped it down from the top position to the bottom in hopes to let my stones hit the grind and apparently the knife was too low in the clamp because the stones were hitting the clamp before the knife, my question is, is there anyway to get the inclusive bevel I want, or will I have to settler on a wider inclusive bevel that is able to hit the grind, thanks for your time and comments.
 
So I update with good news & another question, the good news, sharpened one of my pocket knives and boy is it screaming sharp, but I do have another question, I have a SOG Snarl (The Brous Silent Soldier production version) and it did not come as sharp as I wanted so I put it in the WE and set it to 18 on both sides, I didn't even begin sharpening and I noticed that the stones were below the grind, so I dropped it down from the top position to the bottom in hopes to let my stones hit the grind and apparently the knife was too low in the clamp because the stones were hitting the clamp before the knife, my question is, is there anyway to get the inclusive bevel I want, or will I have to settler on a wider inclusive bevel that is able to hit the grind, thanks for your time and comments.

Glad you were successful.

I don't really understand what you mean by "stones were below the grind"... if you meant that they were hitting at the shoulder of the bevel, that just means the bevel is a higher angle than what you wanted to sharpen at... if that's what you mean. As you discovered, lowering the knife in the clamp decreases the clearance. If you want to sharpen at a lower angle you'd actually raise it in the clamp to gain clearance, but I'm not sure if that's needed in this case. Sounds like you could have just ground in the new edge angle, again, I may not understand "stone below the grind" though.

(As a side note, it looks like you could clamp that knife at the handle... and go about as low as you wanted, since the blade would be in front of the clamp. Don't have one to know for sure though...)
 
Yes I meant the the stones were hitting the shoulder so if you looked down the knife you could see noticeable space between the surface of the stone and the edge( or grind) of the knife because the set angle was too acute for the shoulder, so yes like you said I'd have to grind down the shoulder to allow for the stones to start getting to the edge (finding this fairly frequent in thicker knives if you want to have a smaller inclusive bevel (I'm trying to hit around 35 inclusive for this particular knife), also, when measuring the sides, I noticed that when I get to the end to see how much of an angle change I'll have at the tip of the knife, the right side is showing a .4 degree difference at the tip than the left even when both angles are at 17.5 at the heel (so it looks like this on an angle cube, Left side at heel-17.5 at tip-18.35, Right side at heel-17.5, at tip 18.75) which suggests that the knife might be slightly off balance in the clamp but Ive configured it every which way possible and I end up with the tip on the right side always being more obtuse than the left, "sigh" they should really pack a more detailed manual with these things haha, thanks again for advice and patience with my slow learning ability it seems haha
 
Yes I meant the the stones were hitting the shoulder so if you looked down the knife you could see noticeable space between the surface of the stone and the edge( or grind) of the knife because the set angle was too acute for the shoulder, so yes like you said I'd have to grind down the shoulder to allow for the stones to start getting to the edge (finding this fairly frequent in thicker knives if you want to have a smaller inclusive bevel (I'm trying to hit around 35 inclusive for this particular knife), also, when measuring the sides, I noticed that when I get to the end to see how much of an angle change I'll have at the tip of the knife, the right side is showing a .4 degree difference at the tip than the left even when both angles are at 17.5 at the heel (so it looks like this on an angle cube, Left side at heel-17.5 at tip-18.35, Right side at heel-17.5, at tip 18.75) which suggests that the knife might be slightly off balance in the clamp but Ive configured it every which way possible and I end up with the tip on the right side always being more obtuse than the left, "sigh" they should really pack a more detailed manual with these things haha, thanks again for advice and patience with my slow learning ability it seems haha

Cool. Sounds like you need to just set it up like you had it the first time, and grind in the new bevel you want. I wouldn't worry about the .4 change you're seeing... don't think that's going to affect anything. If you don't want as much of a change from the heel to tip angles, you can move it back some... see the Finding the Sweet Spot page on the WE website.
 
Hello again, it's been awhile since I have posted last, I haven't tried anything with the previously mentioned SOG Snarl just yet, waiting for the money for 50/80 grit stones to ensure that I can grind it quickly and easily. I have had significant luck with my SOG Trident(folder) and Aegis, and my Spyderco Manix 2(FFG) and Centofante 3 getting a mirror polish on each one. I have come across a snag however, I'm sharpening a friend's KaBar folder (the zombie tanto one for reference) and I've set it to twenty degrees on both sides in the top position(can't put it in the bottom position otherwise the stones will hit the clamp) and I've done quite a bit of grinding and I can't get the scratches to reach the apex on either side of the knife, if anyone has any advice ill take it and appreciate it greatly, thanks!
 
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