New XM 18 questions

I have contacted the dealer and I have decided idea to keep it. They are going to work with me and make the first contact with Hinderer to get the issues taken care of. Thanks for your help in me feeling confident this is a defect and not just a break in issue. I'm sure it will be corrected and I will love this thing.
 
RHK has great service and will take care of anything that truely defective. Sometimes things get through, sometimes it's just a difference in expectations. I think you made a good decision, in the meantime while you are working on a solution, keep using it and at least see if some of your concerns do go away with some more break in.
 
I wouldn't accept that grind at any price, I got an HK like that for $100 and sent it back in exchange for a perfect one - let alone a $450 knife. Talk to the dealer you bought it from, if they have a guaranteed good one I would just trade.
 
Send it back! If it was a flipper, it would probably be perfect.
Non flipper??? Not so much.
Send it back, but do yourself a favor and call the dealer first. They should send you a shipping label.
Good luck and let us know how it turns out.
Joe
 
Basically a flipper knife with a strong detent like its suppose to have. But all they did was chop off the flipper and sell it. I doubt they tweeked production to make the non flippers with softer detents. Im shocked we arent hearing more of this from other people about the detent.
 
115Italian said:
Basically a flipper knife with a strong detent like its suppose to have. But all they did was chop off the flipper and sell it. I doubt they tweeked production to make the non flippers with softer detents. Im shocked we arent hearing more of this from other people about the detent.
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You don't get it. A detent ball is not supposed to lock up in the detent hole, I don't give a crap if it's a flipper or non flipper. This isn't the strong detent Hinderers are known for, it's a locked up detent.
 
You may not be comfortable with this, but you can remove the pocket clip and lock bar disc and bend the lockbar out a bit.

I know, the thought makes you cringe. But it works, I've done it on two of my three.
 
I think what Italian was trying to explain is that Older Hinderer XM 18 's were know to have weak detents which in turn made it difficult for some people to flip open with any authority using the flipper. The stop pins as Hinderer calls them could be used as thumb studs on these models and they would flick open quite nice. So to accommodate the complaints some people had about poor flipping with the flipper the later generations had the detent made stronger and detent ball sat deeper in the blade which makes the knife flip open with authority using the flipper. What Italian I believe was saying you probably have the stronger detent and sits deeper in the blade which makes it harder to open with the stop pins. Also if you notice the stop pins sit closer to the handle to act like stop pins to thwart lateral movement, if the stop pins were moved out a bit away from the handle it would give you more leverage to disengage the detent ball from the blade. However this is not how Hinderers are designed, the earlier models I have could easily shake it open, use the stop pin and flick it open easily with my thumb or use the "light switch method" with the flipper to open the knife.

Either way if you are not satisfied I certainly suggest retuning it to the dealer. The problem with bending the lock bar out is you have to remove the lock bar over travel screw and depending where your pocket clip is located that may also have to be removed. Also bending it away from the blade may pull the detent ball out of the blade but could change your lock up. Best wishes.
 
I own five Hinderer's and I absolutely love them. Sorry to hear that you are not happy with your Xm-18. Contact the seller and return it. For that price you should feel 100% satisfied and should not settle for anything less.
 
I bought an XM-18 just a few weeks ago and in no way is it a two-handed knife. It doesn't open with pressure on the lock bar, but the detent is perfectly dialed in for flipping. I think returning it is the best way to go if Hinderers aren't for you.
 
I think there is an issue with my knife. My problem with sending it back is I don't think I'll find another one with the combo of scale color, finish, and non flipper. I also think I would like it alot if it functioned properly. I took a little cell phone video and you can hear what I'm talking about. Is there a way to upload that video on here? I have til tomorrow to send it back. I want more input. It it is normal I don't want it. If this is an isolated instance, I want to keep it and have it repaired. Please let me know if there's a way to upload this video for some final thoughts from you guys on weather it's normal or defective. Thanks alot for all of the help so far.
 
I'm going to attempt to upload this short video. Let me know if I am being dramatic or what. It clearly indicates what's going on by the clicks you hear when I push on the lock bar a bit then release it and open the blade. Notice when I push the lock bar, the additional force required to open the blade. Hope this works. Thanks.

 
I see nothing unusual in that video, it's rather common (not necessarily correct mind you) for a frame lock to act in that manner when pressure is applied to the lock bar while closed. ZT 0450 can become fully inoperable if that is done to it for example. I really do think it will loosen with use as the sharp edge of the detent hole wears off to more of a rounded slope.

Bottom line though if you're not happy, send it in and get it looked at or sell it and move on.
 
After warching your vid I am a bit confused with what is wrong. Can you shoot a video demonstrating the problem you were having, i.e., being unable to thumb open the blade single handedly? When do so, make sure to show the lock side in your vid.
 
Yes, when I get home from work I'll see about getting a video of thumb flicking. I cut my thumb at work yesterday and it was a bit tinder last night which is why I didn't in my first video but it's much better today.

I will also add, when no pressure is added it will flip out great. Just clipping it in your pocket though, is enough to lock in the detent ball. That is the problem. If I never had to worry about that bit of pressure added to the lock bar then it would be great, but I would have to carry it in hand at all times making sure nothing touched the lockbar if I wanted to use it immediately one handed. I don't see how this could be normal. I'm going to quit complaining and send it to Hinderer. If they say nothing is wrong, it will be for sale.
 
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I got home and started playing with it and I think it is breaking in. Like some have said, it seems like the detent hole is rounding off a bit. This is my first Hinderer and frame lock so I guess I had to get used to it as well. It's possible the very top of my finger was on the lock bar slightly also "hinder"ing the flip ability. I know that was said aswell. I'll eat a little crow and say I'm really starting to like this thing this afternoon. I'm glad I didn't give up on it. I will have some edge work to do, I'll just do it gradually
during sharpening. I can deal with it. I appreciate you guys talking out the issues with me and getting me to a place where I'm comfortable with my purchase.
 
Glad it is working out for you. When I received my first xm-18 (after long debating), I was kind of meh because I was more used to the snappy action of ZTs on bearing. But as time goes and as I learned how to properly flip a Hinderer, I have fallen in love with them. Today I truly can't tell between ZT and Hinderer which one I prefer in terms of the flipping action. I like both.
 
Well as Im sitting here flipping, I notice my blade centering had moved to the point of scrubbing and the pivot screw was finger loose. Is it normal to need to blue loctite a new Hinderer?

 
It is definitely too loose. Some people apply blue loctite, others not. It all depends on whether the pivot gets loose over time. If you decide to loctite, just a tiny bit to the thread portion close to the screw head shall do it. The pivot tightness needs careful tweaking - incrementally tighten to the point where there is no blade play and that's it (no need to over-tighten).

In your case though, I'd first tighten the pivot as suggested above without applying loctite. Flip it a few days to see if it gets loose. If yes - then apply loctite.

Edit: also make sure all handle screws are tight.
 
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