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new ZT0562cf lock stick
- Thread starter baldegale
- Start date
sharp_edge
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Make sure there is no debris on the lock face. Then use sharpie or pencil to rub the lock face. After that, flip the knife non-stop for 30 minutes and then report back how it goes. (Of course, check if any screw is loose).
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remove all lube from it. if lube gets on the lockface it can cause lockstick. you will have to clean it off really good. if it doesnt go away after that, then like said above, use pencil or sharpie to on the blade lockface and wear it in a bit. after a few days of re-applying pencil or sharpie and flipping it open and closed several times it should go away.
i take apart my knives and clean them with something like acetone or zippo lighter fluid, even 99% rubbing alcohol should work. if you dont want to take apart then use something like that and a q tip. but if there is more lube in the pivot, its just going to keep dripping on the lock face.
if you re-apply lubrication to the pivot/bearings, make sure to do it sparingly. a drop or two on each side and then wipe lightly with a q tip. it will look like you wiped it all off, but there is a thin layer still on that will protect the metal surface that you applied it to. using grease will avoid this because it doesnt drip out.
i take apart my knives and clean them with something like acetone or zippo lighter fluid, even 99% rubbing alcohol should work. if you dont want to take apart then use something like that and a q tip. but if there is more lube in the pivot, its just going to keep dripping on the lock face.
if you re-apply lubrication to the pivot/bearings, make sure to do it sparingly. a drop or two on each side and then wipe lightly with a q tip. it will look like you wiped it all off, but there is a thin layer still on that will protect the metal surface that you applied it to. using grease will avoid this because it doesnt drip out.
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Just keep using the knife and the lockstick will go away eventually as the lockface wears. I would't really worry about it too much. Lockstick is not a bad thing, lockslip is.
Some people try drawing on the tang of the blade's lockface with a graphite pencil. This supposedly mitigates lockstick. However if you do this it will help prevent the lock from wearing which means that it won't wear the lock causing the lockslip to go away on its own eventually.
If I were you I would just use the knife and not worry about the lockstick.
Some people try drawing on the tang of the blade's lockface with a graphite pencil. This supposedly mitigates lockstick. However if you do this it will help prevent the lock from wearing which means that it won't wear the lock causing the lockslip to go away on its own eventually.
If I were you I would just use the knife and not worry about the lockstick.
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Just for clarity, your knife is hard to unlock when it is open and the lock is engaged, correct?
Lock stick is when the interface between the lock face and blade tang stick causing the knife to be hard to unlock.
This is opposed to just having a strong detent, which makes the knife harder to flip open.
The ZT has a replaceable steel lock face, and this is the first time I can remember anyone having any stick issues with any of the knives with the steel lockbar insert.
best
mqqn
Lock stick is when the interface between the lock face and blade tang stick causing the knife to be hard to unlock.
This is opposed to just having a strong detent, which makes the knife harder to flip open.
The ZT has a replaceable steel lock face, and this is the first time I can remember anyone having any stick issues with any of the knives with the steel lockbar insert.
best
mqqn
yes its hard to unlock, it looks like theres som gunk on the blade tang im going to take it apart when i get home and clean it. cant take all the oil off though because i dont have any at the moment unless there's something i can get at home depot that would work pretty well?
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On the few occasions I've had a sticky lock, a couple of applications of pencil graphite on the blade tang, combined with a couple of days of opening and closing, has done the trick.
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you don't need to lube/oil the knife. so you can run it dry. lubrication just helps protect metal to metal connection so it reduces wear and provides less friction.
you can add some later if you like. a lot of people run them dry.
you can get mineral oil usp almost anywhere if you want some right away. tho I would recommend doing a search for lube and picking a longer lasting lube so when you need to replace the lube in the future you will have a good idea what to get.
its weird because ive never heard of lock stick with a ZT. like its sticky to where i cant unlock with my thumb, i actually have to use index finger or something like that and even then it isnt smooth.
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Low_rez
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- Mar 15, 2011
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If you are near a Wallmart. Get a sharpie marker for where the blade hits the frame lock and Remington Rem gun oil for the blade washers. This is a cheap quick fix! For more time, effort and dough, I would get Nano oil 10 weight and send it to someone to carbidize the lock face.
should the blade tang or lock bar already be carbidized? i thought that was the whole point of the replaceable lock bar. also, the ZT0562cf is bearings, not washers
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JuJu-
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No need for carburization as the 0562 is steel on steel, that's reserved for ti frame locks on steel blades. The 0562 never had a ti frame directly on the steel of the blade. It had always utilized the steel puck lock face on the steel tang of the blade.
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Ti lockfaces should be carburized not carbidized. Carbidizing leaves that deposit on the Ti surface like seen on the nonsharpened edge on certain chisel ground Ti blades. Often Ti blades have one side edge beveled and one side unbeveled with carbides deposited on the other side.
Chris Reeve carburizes his Ti lockface on his Sebenza series knives.
Chris Reeve carburizes his Ti lockface on his Sebenza series knives.
Low_rez
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You are correct! Sorry, hanging with the girlfriend while drinking tonight. Don't listen to the drunk guy!
