Newb grinding question

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MJWBB81

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May 21, 2016
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[/IMG] Hi, I'm very new to making knives and I really enjoy it. As of now all I have to work with is a 1x30 grinder and a cut off tool. Ive been using 40grit 80 and 120. The 40s are blue zirc and the others are just aluminum oxides. I've only been working with files and scrap steel so far but I'm going to start buying good stuff, although I do enjoy using the files. I know I'm not working with the best equipment or steel but I still think I should be able to produce better grinds. I've noticed a lot of waves but I can smooth those out for the most part but my biggest issue I'm having is just past the ricasso it gets very thin and there is always a hump there, basically it starts thick at plunge then really thins out and back to thick. I have no idea what I'm doing wrong. I've googled and YouTube grinding vids and techniques but no luck. I'm just looking for a little help and guidance.
Thanks in advance
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It sounds to me like you're getting the 1" grinder version of a 2" mark. The main thing is to focus on keeping everything even, and make sure you're not pushing harder on the opposite side of the belt when coming up to the plunge. It's very easy to do without noticing, and it doesn't take much to have that ugly line in the blade. It's mostly something that comes with practice.
 
Thank you for the reply. Every little bit of advice helps. I've had a couple blades start out beautiful and the next the thing I know the grind is all over the place. Im going to keep working hard at it, and hopefully get a better grinder down the road.
 
A better grinder would definitely help. The 1x30 machines are so small it's rather awkward to comfortably grind at. I started years ago with a 1x42, and went through the same problems. You'll get the hang of it after a while, but switching to a proper belt grinder is a night and day difference. Just changing the machine will give a huge improvement in your grids
 
I've got to use this 1x30 for awhile so I'm going to try as many different belts as I can and just keeping practicing. I'm going to make me a better base also and see if that helps. I've also been free handing, it seems like a jig would work better I just need to make one.
 
Once you get the basic shape and bevels done to 120 grit on your grinder, switch to a hard block of wood or aluminum and wrap silicon carbide sandpaper around it. Hand sand in only one direction and your blades will become amazingly flat. I would suggest starting at 100 grit, then 220, and 400. You can quit there or continue up to 2000 if you want.
 
A piece of MDF is a good option for that as well. I keep a few MDF sanding blocks around with leather glued on one side. Makes it easy to switch back and forth between hard and soft backing
 
Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith said:
Once you get the basic shape and bevels done to 120 grit on your grinder, switch to a hard block of wood or aluminum and wrap silicon carbide sandpaper around it. Hand sand in only one direction and your blades will become amazingly flat. I would suggest starting at 100 grit, then 220, and 400. You can quit there or continue up to 2000 if you want.
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Awesome, thank you for the tip. I'll definitely try it.
 
Geoff Flato said:
A piece of MDF is a good option for that as well. I keep a few MDF sanding blocks around with leather glued on one side. Makes it easy to switch back and forth between hard and soft backing
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So you just wrap the sandpaper around the mdf?
 
Yes, it is used like any other sanding backer would be. MDF is good stuff to keep around in general. It's hard, flat, and cheap
 
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