Newb questions, hand froe

G

Gun Doc

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Oct 9, 2017
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Hello all and Happy Thanksgiving,

This is my first post to the maker forum. I am thinking of making a "hand froe" or "belt froe." The idea is something I can really wail on, but does not have the long right angle handle of a true froe. Buck's Compadre froe is close to what I want, but I think it may be hollow ground, which to me makes no sense for a froe.

I am thinking of 5160 for its toughness. I am thinking of a 10" to 12" blade, starting with a 1/4 x 1-1/2 or 2 bar, and saber grinding about halfway up to the spine. Since this won't be twisted like a real froe is, I think I can have a bit more fine edge than a real froe. I have some spare Becker "large" handle scales, which I think would make a pretty good handle.

Janz (sp?) and Texas Knifemakers Supply both carry 5160 stock. Or perhaps there is a better source? I also don't know the as supplied hardness of 5160 or what final hardness I should shoot for. I plan to both chop and baton. Clearly toughness should take priority over edge retention. Any comments would be greatly appreciated.

Best,
Gun Doc
 
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If your plan is to build just one then either Jantz or Texas Knifemakers is about the same price just a little difference in shipping dependent on your location. 5160 will come annealed or the softened state of steel so you can grind as needed, but will have to heat treat accordingly. For a hard beater I would shoot for 59-60RC should hold a good edge and easy enough to touch up and keep the edge from chipping out.
 
This is one of the BIG reasons I come to this forum - learn something new. I'd never heard the term "Hand Froe" (and still don't know about a "belt froe"). I did a bit of searching and found all about a froe, even a page with step by step instructions on how to use a froe. Neat tool!

Now, what's a "belt froe"?
 
The handle on a "real" froe is used to twist the blade and lever the split open. A skilled user can actually lever one direction or the other as well as manipulate the wood to somewhat guide the direction of the split in order to split off a uniform thickness. This levering is one of the reasons a froe is relatively dull as such action would break or otherwise destroy a fine edge. Froes are used to "rive" long pieces of green wood, create shakes, and make kindling. There may be other uses I am not aware of.

I honestly don't remember which of the terms "hand froe", "belt froe", or "kindling froe" I have heard elsewhere or which I may have made up. All mean relatively the same thing to me, which is more or less a froe blade with an "inline" handle. Such a tool is meant to be batoned, but not twisted. As such, it can have a bit finer edge than a traditional froe. Many believe that if a froe has a thick enough edge, the wood will often split "in front" of the edge, with the wood not contacting the edge once the split is started. It is also important that the blade is tough enough to be struck with a baton. The Buck Compadre Froe is close to what I want, but as mentioned earlier I have read that it has a hollow ground blade, as many Buck products do. In my opinion, a hollow grind is not appropriate for a froe. So, I am considering making my own.

If you think about it, putting a saber grind and a full tang handle on a piece of flat stock is about as simple as a first "knife" gets for a beginner like me.

Thanks all for the comments and advice so far. Further comments are appreciated.

- Gun Doc
 
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