Newbie and D-2

K

Kevin Hutsell

Joined
Jul 16, 2006
Messages
25
I'm contemplating getting some of the PG D-2 that Aldo is offering. Would you recommend D-2 for an absolute rookie? I am looking at making slip joint folders.

Thanks for your time and input,
Kevin
 
I would not suggest heat-treating it yourself unless you have a very precise setup for it, nor would I suggest it for forging.... Professionally heat-treated, its very good stuff, maybe a bit more difficult to grind and polish than simpler steels.
 
Because you have to work it very hot (over 1850 at all times)and then you need to re normalize it. D2 will not renormilize easily because of the crome and its high carbon content. 1.5%
 
I am not saying you can't do it and make a great knife. I think there is an old thread around where Patton did one and it came out great. It is just harder to do. Also it will not move under the hammer very well.
 
I'm in the process of making my first 2 knives, which are out of D2. In the beginning, it didn't seem difficult to grind; but the finishing by hand is an absolute PITA. I've been trying to get just a couple of deep scratches out for like 3 days. I'm close to saying, "Heck, it's my first knives.", and letting them go with the scratches.

I'll be sending it out to Texas Knife Supply or Paul Bos for heat treating.

I ordered some 1095 for my next knives.
 
i would say its to much to handle for just starting out. 10xx steel is a great place to start and its great steel. when i say 10xx i should explain so you dont start looking for a steel mamed 10xx. the 10 in 10xx means its a simple low aloy carbon steel. the xx is how much carbon the steel has. so 1075 is a simple carbon steel with 75 points of carbon added or .75% is another way to look at it. so any 1074 - 1085 would be great to start with.
 
Kevin, are you flat grinding, Hollow grinding ? I would say if you are doing small knives D-2 would'nt be too bad.The steels JT mentioned would be an easier start, but if you want to tackle some D-2 (and by the way those were some good prices) I strongly suggest ceramic belts. They are a bit more costly but you will profit in the long run.
 
Sooooooo it sounds as if what I should do is go ahead and pick up some of the D-2 but hang on to it for a while until I have some 10xx experience behind me. Finishing experience in particular. I am not forging. Stock removal only.

Thanks to each and every one of you for your thoughts on this subject. I appreciate that I am able to benefit from your past experience.

Kevin Hutsell
 
D2 is some grear steel. I love it and use it a lot. It grinds pretty easy soft. You must get it very close to finished before you harden it. After it is hardened it is a bear to grind. You either need a good HT oven or send it out to get it hardened. Can be finished to near completion before the HT because it is either done in an inert atmosphere or wrapped in stainless foil so there is no decarb. Jim
 
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