Newbie Forge Welding Question

[P.Brewster]

I would like to take a piece of 7/16" 1018 square-stock, drill out a center hole that is 1" deep by 3/16" wide, and insert a 1" long piece of 3/16" tool-steel drill rod.

I would then like to forge-weld the assembly, and proceed to grind the throwing spikes (shuriken) that I currently make out of W-1 and 5160.

I want to do this because the tip is the only part that needs to be hardened.

I've been trying to educate myself, but I have a few questions:

- does this sound possible?
- am I right in assuming that a 1-to-7-brick forge would be large enough, considering that I am heating a small piece of steel?
- am I correct in gathering that a forced-air set-up is necessary to achieve welding temperatures?
- what kind of flux do I use?
- how do I know if my weld is successful?

Perhaps most importantly:
- considering that 1 foot of 1018 is $1, and 1 foot of W-1 is $7, assuming that I would sell the welded shuriken for about the same price as the solid W-1 shuriken, and factoring in the additional welding labor, does my idea even sound cost effective? Would I be spending a dime to save a nickel?

Thanks

 

[Dale Baxter]

I see what you are trying to do, but have you considered it from a quality or labor standpoint? Forge welding the tip will give you a solid spike at a cost of your labor. Material costs should not factor in as much. You will have XXX times the labor if you weld the tips on the spikes and can you produce the same quality your customers are expecting with the new spikes?
Perhaps pressing the tips into the blanks is a better method?
Heat the blank (expanding it), freeze the tip (shrinking it) and press the tip into the blank. This should give you a solid spike with little effort.

The forge can be any various design, as long as it reached welding temperature...which will vary depending upon materials. A simple flux made from Borax should be enough to secure a good weld on such a small area. You will know if the weld was good by testing your spikes.

 

[P.Brewster]

Thanks, Dale.

Press fitting was my original idea... however, because I am grinding a 4 degree (per side) bevel on the shuriken, the transition between 1018 to O-1 would be paper-thin.... I think it would be a weak point.

I plan to weld a core of tool steel into the 1018, flush with the 7/16" x 7/16" surface, and then grind it. Coming out of the forge, it would still have the appearance of a normal piece of square stock.

I wouldn't consider sacrificing quality.... the labor is what I am unsure about.

 

[gregorio]

Are you sure that they won't bend when they are thrown? I would be inclined to think they would after a few throws