newbie help

[sochr000]

Ok, so I know that most of these questions have probably already been answered somewhere else, but after pages of searching I cannot find what I am looking for, so here are a few questions I have with regards to making knives.

Please remember that I have never done this before, so if it looks like a stupid question, it probably is, but I don't know it yet so please don't flame me.

BTW, I have already looked at http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=452465
but didn't seem to answer these questions


What is a good "beginner steel" I will be making tanto point fixed blade knives.
how do i get this steel?

What is a minimalist approach to starting tools? (files, grinder? brands would be helpful as well)

Where can i send a blade to have it heat treated? I have seen a couple people on here saying they sent their blade off to another member of this community and had it heat treated there.

Once done with the blade, what kind of finish/protectant should I use? gunkote?

Any specific angle for a tanto point? (degrees) for strength

As far as marking my work, what do you use (a punch, engraving, etc)? and who makes them?

Is a polishing wheel a good idea or not?

Where can i get kydex sheaths made for fixed blade knives?



Thank you for taking the time to look these over, and sorry for being so curious but I don't want to get into something like this to lose alot of money right off the bat. If you want you can email me at

Christopher.j.sorensen at us.army.mil
(substituting the at for an @ of course)

 

[galadduin]

Hi there, good luck with your journey..

There are plenty threads covering these issues. Maybe you can search via Google. The trick is to write the keyword following with "site:" phrase. For ex. you search something about tantos; search "tanto site:bladeforums.com" : this will give you the threads about tantos...

Also maybe the stickies about newbies need to be elaborated. Sorry I'm not the most experienced maker in this business, I can't answer all of these questions with confidence "for now" - maybe a couple years later...

I've started with a piece of scrap steel, possibly 5160 or 1070. Don't do what I did, go with a piece of known stock maybe 5160, O1 or 1084, you'll learn more. If you want hamon you go for shallow hardening steel, 1095 or W1-2 are good for the job. Buy them annealed or you'll have tough times..

For equipment 3 things are must have: Something to cut steel - an angle grinder is enough to start, something to work with bevels and profile - files are ok to begin with, something to smooth the work -sheets of 120 - 220 - 400 grit sand paper are good for the job. That way I made couple of knives with some success. A polishing wheel is a good addition to these tools. With that you'll have chance to mirror finish the knife. For handles the most basic tool may be a hand saw and a carving knife.

 

[Nabok]

Welcome, if you fill out your profile so folks know where you are you may find someone locally that would let you see how they do things. There are a lot of people more knowledgeable than me here, but this will get you (and maybe a discussion) started.

What is a good "beginner steel" I will be making tanto point fixed blade knives.
how do i get this steel?

You will probably get different answers from everyone on what type of steel and a good bit of the answer depends on the type of knife and its use, but a simple carbon steel is a good place to start. Look a couple of forums down For Sale: Knife Making Supplies and Tools there is often steel listed for sale. There is also Admiral Steel, Alpha Knife supply, Sheffields, and several others.

What is a minimalist approach to starting tools? (files, grinder? brands would be helpful as well)

Files and sandpaper, a drill press is nice. As for brands 1) its like cars or beer, everyone has their favorite and 2) without knowing where you are suggesting a brand is tricky, nothing like saying brand “A” then finding out the person is in another country where that brand isn’t available.

Where can i send a blade to have it heat treated? I have seen a couple people on here saying they sent their blade off to another member of this community and had it heat treated there.

Depends on the steel you decide to use, what equipment you have or can get access to, and as I said there maybe someone near you that would help you with it, so pick a steel and get the blade shaped before you get too worried about heat treat.

Once done with the blade, what kind of finish/protectant should I use? gunkote?

Another depends, what steel, style of knife, how will it be used, since you mention tanto my first thought is a field or tactical knife, if that is right for plain carbon steel I might think gunkote, or a patina, some type of controlled rusting.

Any specific angle for a tanto point? (degrees) for strength

As far as marking my work, what do you use (a punch, engraving, etc)? and who makes them?

Yet another depends some use a stamp (punch), some engrave, some use an etch either acid or electronic. Using an resist and acid is probably the cheepist, the rest start costing money, elctro-etching you need a machine (depending on how handy you are you can make it) chemicals and a stencil, stamps are made the price depends on the size and complexity, I believe one of the guys here is making some.

Is a polishing wheel a good idea or not?
Can you guess? That’s right yet another depends, buffing can be dangerous and it doesn’t look right on every style of knife.

Where can i get kydex sheaths made for fixed blade knives?

There is a forum under the general froum (I think) about making sheaths and there are a number of good sheath makers there, both leather and kydex, they can help you make your own or find someone to do it for you.

Look around the forums, there is a lot of good info here, but you may have to dig down a page or 3, use google and select bladeforums.com as the sight to search, that works better than the forums search anyway. Get a couple of books, Wayne Goddards $50 Knife Shop is a good start.

Todd

 

[Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith]

Welcome to the BF.
Please fill out your profile so we can know how to tailor the answers.

These questions are asked about once a week.
You can get the best search engine here:
http://www.google.com/coop/cse?cx=011197018607028182644:qfobr3dlcra
Make a tab for it, you will find a lot of things to search.

Simple answers:
1084 is one of the best starter steels ( anything from 1075-1084 will be good)
Files (Nicholson), silicon carbide sandpaper (Wet-or-dry)
45degree kissaki is about right.
Texas Knife Supply, Jantz Knife Supply,K&G Knife Supply all do HT and sell all the supplies and tools you will need. ( there are several other good supply companies, plus hundreds of specific item suppliers)
marking comes with time, but you can have a jeweler engrave the blade ricasso with your name.
A search will answer all your other questions.
Stacy

 

[AcridSaint]

I would like to chime in and agree with Stacy about using 1084. It's inexpensive and easy to heat treat into a very serviceable blade.

 

[J.S. Carter]

+2 on the 1084, however as far as ease of procurement most industrial supply houses stock tool steel (Fastenal) carries W1 (drill rod only) O1 and A2 flats) so anyway if you send out your heat treat make it out of A2. I also like Nicholson Black Diamond Files a Large 12" mill bastard, ann 8"-10" half round double cut, and a set of needle files are a must for any beginner along with the book "The $50.00 Knife shop)" is also very handyy. a good bench vice. a hand drill and a 4 oz ball peen hammer to peen rivits is about all that is really needed. you might do a google search for greenpete and check out his minimalist ways on knife making. It's great for a beginner!

 

[sochr000]

Another question I have about steel, I keep reading about air hardening steels. What is this and how does it work? In my mind I see a steel that doesn't need to be heat treated, but I see all sorts of wonderful things in my mind .

 

[galadduin]

Another question I have about steel, I keep reading about air hardening steels. What is this and how does it work? In my mind I see a steel that doesn't need to be heat treated, but I see all sorts of wonderful things in my mind .

That would be lovely, however it is not the case.
If you are a "hamon" person and you want to make traditional blades air hardening steels are not for your purpose. As the name suggests the air hardening steel can harden when cooling the blade from austenisation temp. They all are deep hardening steels so you wont have hamon by clay treatment. Also they need more time to stay at that aus. temperature so you need more fancy equipment, like digital controllers etc. I would talk about them for hours here about the subject, but it is covered thousand times at this forum and elsewhere. Here are some places for you to read:

Here is a must read article for a knifemaker by Kevin Cashen: http://swordforum.com/metallurgy/ites.html

Here is a heat treating page by Bob Egnath : http://www.engnath.com/public/harden.htm

Here is a good link, by Mr. Kevin again: http://www.cashenblades.com/Info/Info.html

Lots of links to follow, this will keep you busy
http://gbrannon.bizhat.com/#top

Read first, then experiment then read these again, with some practice you will understand the importance of technical details of this trade and you will start to understand (it took about 2-3 years for me). It is the most challenging and rewarding bussiness I've ever met.... enjoy...