Newbie kiln question

Joined
Dec 20, 2006
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79
Hello,

I've been lurking here for a while and have really appreciated the discussions. I've learned a lot.

I'm going to start on my first knife and I've settled on 3/16" 1095 for a simple survival-type. I plan on buying annealed 1095 from Jantz, going the stock removal route (by hand at first and with machines if I start going insane), and heat-treating myself.

I've read that 1095 isn't the easiest for a first time heat treat, but I'd still like to go for it.

I have access to a glass kiln. It's big enough to hold the piece, is adjustable, and is capable of getting well above 1,500F. I know that I'm supposed to soak the knife at 1,475F for a number of minutes (don't have it off the top of my head), then immediately quench.

I'm not sure of the exact method of doing so with the kiln, though. I'm not sure if I'm supposed to put the knife in the cold kiln, then heat both up or heat the kiln first then put the knife in.

Also, any recommendations on what to put the knife on while in the kiln? It's just stone or whatever without any racks or anything.

Thanks in advance for the help. I hope I haven't repeated too many questions.
 
1095
slow heat to 1525 , soak for 4 to 5 min bigger blade , smaller blades 3 to 4 min.
Oil should be 130 to 140f. Park#50
Temp @450 2 times for 2 hours at a time, with cool-down between
Find a fire brick and cut a 1/4' slot, that will work.
vern
 
Thank you for the fast reply.

Just to be completely clear, slow heat means put it in the kiln with no heat (kiln's off), then just let the kiln get hot at its own pace, correct?
 
Thank you for the fast reply.

Just to be completely clear, slow heat means put it in the kiln with no heat (kiln's off), then just let the kiln get hot at its own pace, correct?

i start off with a cold kiln.
 
The real issue with heat treat of 1095 is you need to go from 1500 f to 100f or so in about 5 seconds. The question is can you get the blade out of your kiln and into the quench that quickly? Just need to plan ahead of time.
 
Thats the hard part of 1095,you need to be out of the kiln and into the quench in around a second to beat the pearlite nose.If not you form pearlite (bad) instead of marstinite (good).
Stan
 
I've been reading about that. I think I've got it covered. Going to have my oil quench right next to the kiln, heated up and ready to roll.
 
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