Newbie knife enthusiast looking for 1st sharpener.....need help...

I would recommend the Spyderco Sharpmaker like many of the other members. Not only is it a good affordable option, but it works extremely well and you can buy diamond rods for it.
 
Get a double sided stone, & learn how to use it.
Good quality silicon carbide ( the grey stones) or diamond.
Don't buy cheap ones, get a well regarded brand.
I have a sharpmaker, it is good, slow, & I don't use it any more.
You sound like you are not on some temporary knife fling, so go the real deal.
 
Freehand. For 30 years I've gotten by with a couple DMTs and an Arkansas hard and never needed more. You can easily take them and use them anywhere. It truly isn't that difficult to learn. Millions have learned to freehand as it wasn't long ago that sharpening "systems" didn't even exist.
 
WOW.....I never thought I would get so much advice in such a short time! Thanks guys! Very much appreciate it! It looks like I am going with the Spyderco Sharpmaker for now.....

FortyTwoBlades.....thanks for that sheet....printed and hanging above workbench in garage! My goal is to definitely get good at free hand!
 
My point of view only here, but it's all about the original bevel. If the original bevel is crooked you can handsharpen until your teeth fall out before getting the nice cutting edge you're dreaming off. That's where a low cost jig like the Lansky shines : it enables you to get an even, centered and equal bevel. Once you're there, you can sharpen all you want... As most of the production knives come with crappy bevels (sharp nonetheless, sometimes, but off centered, uneven, etc.), getting a clean base did wonders for most of my knives. This is especially noticeable on hard steel and thick blades (think D2 but it applies for 12C27, 420 HC and 440A or C all the same).
 
herisson said:
My point of view only here, but it's all about the original bevel. If the original bevel is crooked you can handsharpen until your teeth fall out before getting the nice cutting edge you're dreaming off. That's where a low cost jig like the Lansky shines : it enables you to get an even, centered and equal bevel. Once you're there, you can sharpen all you want... As most of the production knives come with crappy bevels (sharp nonetheless, sometimes, but off centered, uneven, etc.), getting a clean base did wonders for most of my knives. This is especially noticeable on hard steel and thick blades (think D2 but it applies for 12C27, 420 HC and 440A or C all the same).
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I have no trouble sorting out a bad grind on a benchstone.
 
mtangent said:
I have no trouble sorting out a bad grind on a benchstone.
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:thumbup: ^

Aside from my Washboards ;), the most useful sharpening tool around has to be a combination silicon carbide stone and a small bottle of oil. Sooner or later one should transition to freehand.
 
Ok, heavy-handed is correct, I have put it off long enough and I feel I have some muscle memory from using a SM for awhile so I am going free-hand.

What would be a good start for bench stones? I have the strops covered I think.

Thanks guys for all the info provided in this forum.
 
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