newbie needs advise on which Busse to consider

[Deadwood]

. . . so a B10, B11 or the SYCKO 711 are great choices . . . You could get multiple knives with that money that way.

I was thinking the same thing!

Even if "thinned down", it still a great collection.

 

[PeterPHWS]

Nearly all the main candidates have been covered .... so I will try and help with a few pic's of alternative options not yet covered ... and also introduce the aspect of what sort of sharpening skills do you have ? As these can have a bearing on the model of knife you chose ...

Mention has been made of the FSH's which come in "variant" models ... usually done by the custom shop ... these models often come with some handy features such as serrated clip edges and here is a pic of one I had with a NMSFNO.

The clip point gives you the oppertunity to use this for tasks such as striking a fire steel and enabling a great shower of sparks without damaging the main edge ... and also using it for heavy duty tasks where you also want to preserve the main edge. Examples being splitting the sternum on a deer carcass and hacking down through the spine to split the carcass ... or anchor the main blade in a log and use the clip area for stripping spruce roots for twine etc ... the uses are many ... and whilst there are a few variants of the NMSFNO with serrated spine edges these mainly seem to be found on the FSH blades.

There is also two different types of grind on these knives and this plays a part in how you sharpen them. The FSH's are either flat ground or sabre ground and come with a "V" style edge ... this can be sharpened on a flat stone or using one of the machine options such as an Edge Pro or Lansky system. The NMSFNO comes with a convex primary grind ... as does the SAR 8 ... meaning that instead of a flat side which tapers to the edge on a flat ground or sabre ground knife ... the side is curved and the curve tapers to the edge. The top of the line models in these knives which come in a satin finish from Busse therefore had a fully convex edge applied to them. This means that the knife tapers in a continual curve right to the edge. These edges are superior for chopping and will last a long time ... but to retain the edge you need to have skills which enable you to strop the blade on leather using different compounds to polish or remove steel ... or you need to develop sharpening skills using fine linishing belts on a belt sander ... in essence therefore a fully convexed blade takes a little bit of different sharpening skill compared to using a normal flat stone to sharpen a SAK. If your prior skill base is using flat stones then going for a knife with a "V" edge may be the most sensible option to start with.

One of the greatest disappointments to many knife owners is when the factory edge starts to dull ... and they don't have the sharpening skills to bring it back.

To enable sharpening in the field to be done easily and quickly Jerry developed in his early knives an Assymetrical edge ... this is a convex edge on the right hand side of the knife and a very shallow 11 degree flat "V" edge on the left hand side. A unique combination which enables you to sharpen in the field by simply running a ceramic hone along the flat V edge on a very shallow angle and this restores the sharpened edge to razor sharpness in a few simple strokes. Very fast to do ... very effective ... and the edge lasts a long time with chopping and hard use. These edges were only available on a select number of knives. The old Basic series with M-INFI steel and the highly prized Straight Handled Battle Mistress which was Jerry's first INFI knife. He did do a number of Basic 11's with this type of edge which were a fairly recent release but has'nt done any since. IMO these edges are by far his best ... and if you were looking for a light knife for backpacking then an old Basic 7 or Basic 9 which come with the Res C handle are an ideal choice.

Here is a pic of my Basic 9 with the FSH Variant and the NMSFNO ...

The Basic 9 weighs in at only 14 oz's but has enough blade length to enable you to baton and split the thickest of logs and has really good chopping power for it's weight ... mainly because it is nicely blade heavy due to having a tapered hidden tang ... and it also has a very small choil called the "elf choil" ... which I personally like because the right angle edges on the Basic 9 choil don't have a relief taper on them and can bite very deeply into a fire steel. The size of the choil and it's proximity to the handle make it ideal for use with a steel and the choil acts as a great "guide" to enable the steel to be used safely without risk of it catching the main blade.

These are not often found on the secondary market but fall well within your budget ... if you can find one I would definately recommend the Basic 9 or even the Basic 7 as a good backpacking knife. The Basic series is .25 at the spine if that is a concern ... they are incredibly tough ... go check out the knifetest.com destruction video on a Basic 9 if you have any doubts.

 

[FTR-14c]

I'll look into the Res C handled knives. I've not ruled them out. Also, I really have not ruled out the 10" or even the 11". I had no idea they were that light (and would still be good choppers). However, I'm still slightly inclined towards wanting to go with the thicker .25+/- blade such as the NMSFNO, even if it limits me to an 8".

If you are considering a 10" to 11" blade thats around .25" there are a few versions of the Battle Mistress.
Check the top middle of ASTimT's pic above. Looks like a few FBM = 27oz; .25" thick; 10" blade. Or a BM-E = 21oz; .25" thick; 9.5 blade.

 

[l2lku2]

I agree with PeterPHWS about the asymmetric edges. I only have a B11 with it but I feel like it penetrates better when chopping.

Here is a B11 regular V edge:

Here is a B11 asym edge:

Apologies for the different orientation, scale and backgrounds of the pics. I only noticed it now and it annoys me. I will need to fix it.

 

[Airborne Falcon]

I've never owed a Busse. For the last two years I've been using a Fallkniven A1 (6" blade). For chopping and clearing. I think I'd do a lot better with a longer and heavier blade. Over time I have inadvertently chipped-up and bent the cutting edge of the Fallkniven blade to a point where it's beyond repair (I now know better). I realize the Busse's are expensive, but would like one that could be purchased new in the $400 to $600 range. Most importantly, I need one that is readily available. Overall I'd call what I need a survival/wilderness/general purpose knife. I am in a humid environment and would prefer a coating that would help with the rust problem. Something that would weigh about a pound and a half and would have an 8" or longer blade and a 1/4" or wider blade with micarta handles. I went to the Busse website and saw that they only had one model available, and it was not what I needed. Any suggestions or guidance as to which model to look for would be greatly appreciated.

I love the hogs, I do. But if it were me (and it has been, many times) and I were looking for a "wilderness/survival/GP" blade ... I'd also consider a SR Battle Rat, and in doing so save my Busse money for a smaller Busse that would get a lot more use on my day-to-day belt than my big chopper I only tote to the woods.

 

[wjswiger]

I have a Desert Storm Fighter custom shop with a bowie tip.....well, at least I traded for one and I'm drooling as I'm waiting for the post office to deliver it!!.....damn government. However, I'm both a fan of Busse and Fehrman and they both make great knives in the 7-8" range. I also have an 8" custom bowie/chopper on order from Ozark Traditions Knives(OTK) and from the pictures I've seen so far I'm in love....it is .30 thickness of CPM4 steel and may just be better than anything else at this point.

 

[Deadwood]

. . . there are a few variants of the NMSFNO with serrated spine edges these mainly seem to be found on the FSH blades.

Reason enough for the Fusion Steel Heart. Definitely on the short list.

a "V" style edge ... can be sharpened . . . using one of the machine options such as a . . . Lansky system. a "V" edge may be the most sensible option to start with.

This is critical information, and kept me from making a wrong turn at the start. I’m reasonably skilled with Lansky and similar sharpeners, but that’s about the extent of my sharpening skills. I will definitely want to start out with a V (or asymmetrical if found) - and I’m afraid this will considerable reduce my options.

. . . which come with the Res C handle are an ideal choice.

From your and other recommendations, I now consider Res C to be a better alternative to my old favorite, Micarta.

. . . if you can find one I would definitely recommend the Basic 9 . . . as a good backpacking knife.

Although the Basic 9 would likely be the most practical blade for me overall, it could very well be the second Busse I purchase. However, here’s my shortlist for my first order: NMSFNO, FSH, SAR 8 and, only for the sake of comparison, the Battle Mistress.

Over the weekend I’ll review every post in this thread one last time, make a comprehensive spec chart for the knives that made my short list, collect pictures, prioritize colors, handle types, sheaths, etc. — to the end that I'll have the Busse on order at the factory or custom shop early next week.

 

[Deadwood]

Here is a B11 asym edge:

Now that I can see exactly what the asym edge looks like, it’s not that much different from the way we sharpened our machetes when I worked on survey crews back in the day. The machetes had more bite when sharpened on just one side.

 

[Al-Sheikh]

(...) However, here’s my shortlist for my first order: NMSFNO, FSH, SAR 8 and, only for the sake of comparison, the Battle Mistress. (...)

Beautiful shortlist :thumbup: I am afraid your decision is only about which knife to get first. You'll end up having all of them anyways. If you still can stop here and don't get any busse. It's highly addictive and seriously stresses your bank account

Maybe I should also explain why I spoke in favor of the NMSFNO instead of the FSH. I took my HHFSH (0.27") on a trip to Malaysia. In this kind of environment (rain forest) I don't have gloves with me. After some chopping I had two blisters on my pinky - one of them got infected and caused trouble for weeks. Blisters on the pinky is a problem some people have with the fusion handle on the FSH and Battle Mistress (not so much the BWM). This is why I now prefer the NMSFNO.

 

[Deadwood]

Beautiful shortlist :thumbup: I am afraid your decision is only about which knife to get first. You'll end up having all of them anyways. If you still can stop here and don't get any busse. It's highly addictive and seriously stresses your bank account

Where does it stop? When will it end?

 

[AZTimT]

Where does it stop? When will it end?

When you run out of plasma & other body fluids/parts to sell to finance the addiction, or your credit cards get shut down... bahh, who am I kidding, there are still prepaid debit cards and recycling scrap metal.
I think the real answer is when you die. You were warned.

 

[phillipJ]

Where does it stop? When will it end?

I don't think it will Stop. Even after the zombies come, we will still be trading bacon flavored ice cream for infi!

 

[Cobalt]

look on the private sales board for a used busse with 7.5" or more of blade. Pretty much any Busse will do. Your 6 inch A1, while tough is just too small for the jobs you are using it for. I would personally go with a steel heart of any generation as a minimum. Also look into the basic series with the softer grip and much cheaper.

 

[kurodrago]

This knife is better that one statement...doesn't really work and you should listen to it. The better or best knife is the one that you like more...period.

 

[mctrinket]

Why not order a new Team Gemini Light Brigade straight from Busse right now? Most of the stuff people are mentioning you will have to get on the secondary market. I'd love a NMSFNO too, but I rarely ever see them for sale and always over $500. You can order a brand new TGLB from Busse right now for around $350.

 

[nydude]

If you're looking for a one knife solution on a budget, you should still be able to find a reasonably priced non light brigade Team Gemini, which has probably a better grind for constant abuse. Mine is great and not too heavy, but also I don't mind the double guard which some people think it gets in the way.

The most bang for your buck right now is the SYKCO 711. I haven't put it down since it arrived and can't wait to start beating on it.

I'll try to post pics of them together.

 

[Davor]

Battle Mistress is a good fast blade capable of slicing and minor chopping. The weight is also ideal for long hikes.

 

[climbingrocks]

Beautiful shortlist :thumbup: I am afraid your decision is only about which knife to get first. You'll end up having all of them anyways. If you still can stop here and don't get any busse. It's highly addictive and seriously stresses your bank account

Maybe I should also explain why I spoke in favor of the NMSFNO instead of the FSH. I took my HHFSH (0.27") on a trip to Malaysia. In this kind of environment (rain forest) I don't have gloves with me. After some chopping I had two blisters on my pinky - one of them got infected and caused trouble for weeks. Blisters on the pinky is a problem some people have with the fusion handle on the FSH and Battle Mistress (not so much the BWM). This is why I now prefer the NMSFNO.

How did the big Busse compare to the local parangs?

 

[leatherman]

Where does it stop? When will it end?

I found Busse back about 1996.

I haven't found a way out yet, if you do please let me know before the Minotaur gets me! This maze is driving me nucking futs!

 

[DanR217]

Battle mistress in one form or another