Newbie Question About Rivets

Joined
Nov 15, 2014
Messages
257
Hello;

I just finished my first knife, and as expected, there were a few issues, but in general I'm happy with the way it came out. I had a problem with the rivets, though. I'm sure it's a simple problem that some of the experts can help me with.

I cut the rivets out of a 1/4 inch brass rod. They wouldn't fit through the 1/4 inch holes I drilled (so surprise there). I didn't want to expand the holes so I sanded down the rivets until they fit. It worked, but it was far from ideal. So, how do you guys deal with that? Do you use a drill bit that's one size bigger? Do you use the ready-made rivets I've seen advertised?

I've seen a lot of knife makers cutting their rivets, like I did, and drilling for them, like I did, but haven't seen any information on how to make them fit well. Any advice you could share would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Sprayman
 
I find this problem with all my pin stock etc. I drill larger holes in my tangs than the intended pin or rivet stock. You can also use reamers to make exact holes. But I like oversized holes on my tangs.
 
you can buy letter bits that are jsut a bit bigger than the normal fraction bits, they are usually a bit more expensive though. I normally just file the end of the pin to round it off and then lightly tap it through. If its really snug, chuck it in the drill and run some sandpaper over it. you dont need to take off much, just enough for a snug fit.
 
+1 for the file and drill sander method... I have been doing it this same way for a long while with no problems. not the fastest maybe, but whatever.
 
Tattoedfreak;

Where do you find these bits? I never heard of them. Also, can I get you to clarify what you mean by, "chuck it i the drill and run some sandpaper over it?"

Thanks,
Sprayman
 
A letter F drill? That doesn't sound like something that can be found at the standard home improvement store. Do you special order them?
 
Hi Brian;
Why do you like oversize holes? Is it for the simplicity of sliding in the pins? I imagine it doesn't affect the integrity of the handle, or you wouldn't do it.

Sprayman
 
Tattoedfreak;

Where do you find these bits? I never heard of them. Also, can I get you to clarify what you mean by, "chuck it i the drill and run some sandpaper over it?"

Thanks,
Sprayman

Pretend it's a drill bit and sand it down as it spins.
 
Boogaloo;
Thanks. I like that idea. I'll give it a try.

By the way....51% of me is glad I live in Santa Fe, while 49% of me wishes I lived in Portland. Great city, Portland.
 
Boogaloo;
Thanks. I like that idea. I'll give it a try.

By the way....51% of me is glad I live in Santa Fe, while 49% of me wishes I lived in Portland. Great city, Portland.

I guess I'm a bit torn too. A good chunk of me wishes I was somewhere drier and brighter :P

Stopped in Santa Fe on a cross country trip once, seems like a pretty nice place to live.

Saw a nifty instructable on building a "live center" type attachment for your drill press table so both ends of the workpiece are supported. Then you can take some heavier cuts without worrying about putting a bunch of stress on the spindle.
 
you will rarely find a letter drill in your normal hardware store but if you have a specialty store such as Busy Bee Tools, they usually have them or can order them. The holes are that much oversize, just enough the you dont have to use too much force to put a pin through. I cant be bothered getting a letter bit for every pin so I just file/sand if needed and tap it through. and like Boogaloo says, put it as if a drill bit and just hold the sandpaper to it. Cut off enough for all your pins but dont separate them, spin and sand, then flip over to get the other end, then cut to fit your pins. that way you arent trying to hold tiny pins while sanding or you dont have to cut your pins oversize to hold them in the drill.
 
Hi Brian;
Why do you like oversize holes? Is it for the simplicity of sliding in the pins? I imagine it doesn't affect the integrity of the handle, or you wouldn't do it.

Sprayman

I use oversize holes in the tang for two reasons. 1) Just like you said, simplicity of them sliding through the tang. 2) It allows for a little oops factor when working with the handle. If I don't get it exact I can move the handle just a tad to get it just right.

My fixed blade knives look like swiss cheese as well. That allows for epoxy "rivets". So I don't worry about the tad oversize hole play messing with any sheer on my pins.

You can get all the different sized drill bits from Enco. But say for 1/8" pins I use a 5/32" hole. I also use a big 5/32" hole for my 1/16" pins I use on my bowies. But I use G-Flex epoxy and that is bomb proof.
 
Use a letter F for 1/4 inch, a number 30 for 1/8th, a number 21 for for 5/32, a number 12 for 3/16, and a number 11 for 3/32.. Buy high speed steel or cobalt drills individually online from various industrial suppliers or even Ebay. Use these on the tang but drill the regular size holes in the scales. When you put epoxy on the pins they become slippery and will usually slide in with tiny taps from a small hammer (8 ounce or 12 ounce). They will usually fit without scales cracking so try one first before you sand them down. This has worked for me. Larry
 
Larry, Brian, Tatooedfreak, Boogaloo;
Thank you all for your help. I'm getting ready to finish two drop points and soon I'll make my first chef's knives. I'll post pics if they're not too embarrassing :)
 
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