Newbie Question - Everyone's Favorite Thread!

Best initial sharpener is the Spyderco Sharpmaker, makes touch up jobs real easy, just takes a bit of practice and works well on recurved blades and serrations. An EdgePro makes reprofiling jobs easy, and will allow you much more flexibility in adjusting edges to your own specifications, but is $$$. These are pre-assembled sharpening systems, of course, but you can do well with something as simple as sandpaper on a glass plate. Just that it'll take a lot more practice.

Every lockback I've owned has had a small amount of play, to varying degrees, but it doesn't affect the lockup unless it's particularly significant. My Manix has maybe a millimeter of tip movement when I push down really hard on the handle. Otherwise, you won't notice it. As noted, it really isn't a problem and may in fact be beneficial as the lock up won't be as easily compromised when contaminated.
 
See where i live. But if we were living at the same place i would say: Buy a middle coarse corundium stone from Apex (a german corporation) and a fine one. Maybe add a fine SiC (silicium carbice) stone and a hard Arkansas. They don´t have to be larger than an averages mans hand (10 x 5 x 2cm).

Get a leather strope and some compound. Chromiumoxyd as use in paints as pigment is good.

For any recurve edge the corners of the stones are not much different to the corners of ceramics. For the recurve of the 710 is not that deep, i think you will come around.

Any other? On the papers, M2 is hardest and tough compared to other high alloyed steel usually seen in blades over 58HRC hardness. Maybe M2 is overbuild for knifes but it performs great in terms of sharpness, edge holding and chipping. I have a 140HS and was blown away. If i had to start again with buying knifes i would buy a 710HS (or maybe not because the style is not love at first, nor second sight for me) or a Griptilian. One is best at performance and the other is hard to beat if you look at the price.

The 710 is always recommended by ppl. using it. Personally i was one of the 806 folks. But comparing the advantages of D2 to M2 i will not recommend D2. If your hand and your eye like the knife, take it.

If not, come back here. There are other great knives to recommend.
 
I'd like some people to chime in on the RSK Mk1 as well, and see how it compares to the Manix and 710HS!

Edit:

Also, I'd like to add that I've been seeing a lot of concern about S30V in the forums. Mostly it seems about chipping that is happening on quite a few knives, even in light use.

I'm wondering if this should sway my decision towards the M2 blade on the 710HS.

Any opinions? I don't know much about M2 at all.
 
OK, i can only compare one single blade to the other and read what other ppl. talk about their blades.

If you have found a knife you like from design and all and it has M2, don´t hesitate.

M2 comes harder, means can cut more things.

It takes a very sharp edge and holds it with no microdents or microchips or whatever. I just compare factory edge to factory edge. Every knife i have, has to be resharpened for a better edge after a week or two. My 140HS was edc for two weeks. and i didn´t need more than the first strope on leather. Nothing happened to that edge. I mean i am crazy to inspect the edge with a slight run of my finger tips.

Every high alloyed steel is best at higher hardness and M2 simply shows the better properties at a higher hardness than any stainless steel, offered in the industrial knife market.

Have a look at Kevin Wilkins site. He is a knifemaker from Texas, living in Berlin. He makes blades from M2 and he says: "it cuts and cuts and cuts...., even though most of his knives are made from S90V.

Maybe there you get an opinion from first hand.
 
I'm going to surprise everyone.

I ended up ordering the Doug Ritter RSK Mk1 by Benchmade.

I've been reading a lot of reviews on all these knives, taking the suggestions of the posters in this thread, contacting some people personally, and then in the end speaking with Doug Ritter, who I might add is a great guy!

He never tried to sell me this knife, in fact, he mentioned several different ideas and then in later emails also mentioned the knife he designed.

I decided that I would be happier with an AXIS lock, rather than the lock on the Manix. I was considering the 710HS, but I ended up deciding against it due to the blade style, although the steel type seems nice. I realize the grip on the RSK Mk1 is more plastic than others, but I also liked the fact that the knife is a lot lighter than some of the others. All in all, I think I'll be happy with this knife and I'm sure that I'll be purchasing some more in the future.

Thanks again for all the help in deciding, and giving me the basics to form my own opinion. :)
 
If you like the knife all in all, instead of the 710 bladestyle, than you made a good decision.

Hope your edge will stay fine and sharp. If not, yoe are supported by nice ppl. like DR and those from BM.

Enjoy! :thumbup:
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top