Newbie Sharpening

kjd2121 said:
If you are too lazy to search than I doubt you will get many answers. It could be considered a bit dis-respectful. This topic has been beaten to death. Good Luck!!
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I'd counter that.... this, above, is disrespectful....

Seems there's always one in a group.... Always...
 
DebX36 said:
Howdy everyone! I'm sure this has been asked and answered a thousand times over, but I figured getting my own topic on the matter would be nice, so I don't have to search many old threads. Anywho!

I am looking for a nice sharpening system. I've never fully gotten down the use of a whetstone, and have typically used the AccuSharp system for most of my blade maintenace. I've recently been looking into honing, as well, to get rid of the curls on my blades (Wasn't aware of this for several years initially). For what it's worth, my main blades include:

Benchmade Griptilian
Benchmade Barage (1 full, 1 mini)
Esee 5
Esee 3MIL
Wetterling Hatchet and Axe (not aware of the models)

So they're all higher end. I would really prefer a pull through sharpener for the knives, and I'll top them off with a honing. If needed, I can look more so into whetstones, but do prefer the ease of a manual pull through. Who should I look at? Also, what about a honing rod? Who makes the best out there? I'd like to keep everything under $200 (I'm looking into a puck stone for my axes and hatchets, as well) and the ability to tuck it all easily into a pack for camping is highly crucial

Any help is highly appreciated!
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For a pull through, member "Fred.Rowe" has a widget called the ERU. It is an adjustable carbide pull through that works quite well - I was in on an early pass around.
http://edgeru.com/

That and a Norton combination puck for your hatchet will cover your specs. The advantage of both is they are small for camping and do not require a flat surface to work from. As you improve with the puck you might find yourself using it for your knives as well.

When using pull through, use light pressure and alternate sides every few passes so any imperfections in the carbide inserts do not cut a groove into your edge.

Closer to home I probably wouldn't use either of these but field/camp use is different. A ceramic rod is not the tool I would choose for my hatchets in any event. Ashes from the campfire sprinkled on a flat piece of wood work great for a stropping compound.

Edit to add:
while a bit outside your specs for size (2.5x11") I make a sharpening block that uses films, wet/dry, papers that will do anything that can be sharpened on a benchstone. Is a bit large for packing but very light weight and easily customized, so it depends on your pack and how much sharpening you expect to do. Link below in my signature. It has helped a lot of people to improve their freehand skills.
 
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What's the thoughts on a sharpener for larger tools? I do a lot of wood processing at work, using my Wetterlings and hatchets. I've always (assumed I would) love a puck sharpener. Who should I look at for a high quality one?
 
Wetterlings sells a puck but is pretty expensive, not sure if its worth it. I have a couple of the Norton combination ones, they work well. If used with oil or water you can smear any mud it forms onto a piece of smooth wood or bark and use that for a strop, refines it just a bit nicer.
 
chiral.grolim said:
I don't own a sharpmaker, but:


You put the rods in the backside and use it just like a file. It should work fine.
I do not own a sharpmaker because i generally require coarser grits for sharpening and re-profiling the edge of my knives, not to mention an axe. If your axe edge has much damage, it would take a LONG time to restore it with the fine grits of a sharpmaker.
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Did. not. know. that.

Very interesting. Thanks for sharing.
 
DebX36 said:
...How well (or lack there of) do the Sharpmaker and EPA do with, let's say, a machete with a 12"+ blade?
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sharp_edge said:
Not owning it but just curious: is it easy to sharpen a hatchet or an axe with sharpmaker?
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I sharpen all my machetes (and all knives over about 8 inches) freehand on long diamond-steel rods. I have a lot of practice with freehand sharpening, so it's easy for me. The EPA is for (as mentioned) reprofiling and creating and maintaining very fine edges. You don't need a fine edge on a machete.

As for axes and hatchets, again, I sharpen them freehand, but with a medium bastard metal file (only buy files made in the USA - all others suck). You can find them at any hardware store.
 
I'm new at this too. I did a ton of research and ended up with the Edge Pro Apex. But -- if I had to do it over again I think my purchases would be:

- A sharpie
- An Angle Cube (http://www.chefknivestogo.com/anglecube.html)
- A cheap USB Microscope
- A medium and fine grit stone -- nothing too fancy at first.

Buy more stones/strops/etc as you refine your hand sharpening techniques and learn more.
 
dullsville said:
I'm new at this too. I did a ton of research and ended up with the Edge Pro Apex. But -- if I had to do it over again I think my purchases would be:

- A sharpie
- An Angle Cube (http://www.chefknivestogo.com/anglecube.html)
- A cheap USB Microscope
- A medium and fine grit stone -- nothing too fancy at first.

Buy more stones/strops/etc as you refine your hand sharpening techniques and learn more.
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I don't understand, why the cube and microscope?
 
bucketstove said:
I don't understand, why the cube and microscope?
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I've tried to reply to this about 5 times and I keep getting way too verbose and philosophical. I'll try to summarize succinctly. Basically they eliminate guesswork while allowing a fairly short route to really understanding what you're doing.

Using a microscope and sharpie helps you to see exactly what's going on with the cutting edge no matter what system you use. You can better observe if your sharpening angle is taking off the sharpie marks consistently. You can see exactly what a "factory grind" looks like, and how different sharpening angles/grits/methods affect your cutting edge. Then you can compare this to how well they perform cutting different mediums.

The angle cube allows you to put numbers around primary and secondary bevels. If you like the manufacturers original angle, you can replicate it. If you don't you can change it until you get satisfactory performance out of the blade. You can then learn about how different steels and blade designs do this, that and the other thing.

It's up to the individual very much. If you're a someone who needs to keep your blade sharp as part of your job and don't have time to muck around, the spyderco system is probably be right for you. If you're a casual user who has the luxury and desire to spend time geeking out on knives, then accurate measuring tools combined with flexible sharping systems (i.e. manual on stones) is probably a better fit.

Sorry that I haven't really explained the "how' but I kinda think figuring that out is part of the fun. Once you have the tools, you can pretty much chill on the couch and figure it out.

Not quite the same as quickly getting the job done, but in the long run it's probably a better education.
 
Hmm, I think the comment re: files is not very accurate. There are quite a few non-USA file makers that produce outstanding products of that ilk. One off the top of my head being Grobet of Switzerland. Sandvik too. Unless they have recently suffered a decline in quality I don't know about yet.

Files are also my preferred method for bevel setting and intermediate work on axes and hatchets - sometimes I take them a bit finer and sometimes I leave the file-cut edge.
 
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bucketstove said:
I don't understand, why the cube and microscope?
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They're not necessary. But as said above, they will help you understand what you are doing to the edge and what needs to be done. This means, once you figure out what your needs are, you will find repeatability will get easier. They're very handy tools.
 
DebX36 said:
Howdy everyone! I'm sure this has been asked and answered a thousand times over, but I figured getting my own topic on the matter would be nice, so I don't have to search many old threads. Anywho!

I am looking for a nice sharpening system. I've never fully gotten down the use of a whetstone, and have typically used the AccuSharp system for most of my blade maintenace. I've recently been looking into honing, as well, to get rid of the curls on my blades (Wasn't aware of this for several years initially). For what it's worth, my main blades include:

Benchmade Griptilian
Benchmade Barage (1 full, 1 mini)
Esee 5
Esee 3MIL
Wetterling Hatchet and Axe (not aware of the models)

So they're all higher end. I would really prefer a pull through sharpener for the knives, and I'll top them off with a honing. If needed, I can look more so into whetstones, but do prefer the ease of a manual pull through. Who should I look at? Also, what about a honing rod? Who makes the best out there? I'd like to keep everything under $200 (I'm looking into a puck stone for my axes and hatchets, as well) and the ability to tuck it all easily into a pack for camping is highly crucial

Any help is highly appreciated!
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Hi DebX,

Don't bother sharpening anything. You have no time to spare. Just make your final preparations. Your time is coming and soon.

Think of what you've done here.

You said you didn't want to perform a search AND you said the "pt words." (pull through).

Yep, you're going to "knife hell" and you're going on the express.

Good luck. :)
 
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JSMcustoms said:
Pull through sharpener... the idea of one of those things ripping off huge chunks of metal from high end knives made me visibly cringe.
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I too have seen HUGE chunks of metal RIPPED from knife blades by those devil tools, the pull-through sharpener! Those that use them should be jailed!

And the gummint should ban the sale of pull-through sharpeners too!

Some of those MASSIVE pieces of metal I've seen ripped from knives by pull-through sharpeners were BIGGER than the HUGE chunks of metal created by high speed, head-on car crashes on two lane highways!!!!!.

When i think of what those damned pull-through sharpeners do to innocent, unsuspecting knife blades, it makes me want to cry.

I'm a cringer too.Hyperbole makes me cringe, but only internally. It's never visible. :cool:
 
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What would be a nice tool to use while out hiking and camping? Just for super fast jobs?
 
DebX36 said:
What would be a nice tool to use while out hiking and camping? Just for super fast jobs?
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Stick to your initial specs - you know your needs and capabilities better than anyone else. Get a better quality pull through and just make sure to swap it end for end as you go. Contrary to some of the buzz, used with common sense it works pretty much identically to file drawn along the edge and will do a respectable job if not abused.

After that, nothing will beat a puck for field use unless you're doing some brutal work - in which case a small mill file will be a great addition to your axe/hatchet/machete kit (do not use it on your better pocket knives). Simple is better when you're squatting by a campfire, or touching up in the middle of limbing a tree etc.
 
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