Newbie, starting from scratch, finally bought Fallkniven A1

Yes, I am still researching all kinds of stuff and continuing to overthink it but like I said, that's what I do. It's nice not to be in a rush. I have put the Excel spreadsheet aside for now. :)

After watching more video reviews and bushcraft videos I am starting to think the small axe or even tomahawk might be a good idea instead of a large knife. Either would be a much better chopper and serve as a hammer when needed. Heavier but much better for large tasks than a large knife and I'd still have a decent medium sized knife for more knife type duties.

The tomahawk with a hammer instead of a spike is more of a multi-tool than the axe but not as good a chopper. The axe is not something to toss on my belt for a day hike but the tomahawk could still go maybe. For backbacking for an overnight or more I don't think it's a big deal to have an extra pound or so for the hawk/axe over the large knife.

So far I am looking at the following:

Axes:
Husqvarna Multipurpose Axe 26" $67 shipped, head by Hults Bruks in Sweeden http://www.cpohusq.com/husqvarna-576926201-26-in--curved-handle-multipurpose-axe/hqvn576926201,default,pd.html?ref=pla&zmam=31282435&zmas=47&zmac=697&zmap=hqvn576926201&gclid=Cj0KEQiA56_FBRDYpqGa2p_e1MgBEiQAVEZ6--ROmPCSBBXDwoIer2NVWHX_qEX5PXV7w9R7v1aty-kaAlqk8P8HAQ
Cold Steel Trail Boss 23" $25 shipped https://www.amazon.com/Cold-Steel-Trail-Hickory-Handle/dp/B001CZ9UY4/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1487688631&sr=1-1&keywords=cold+steel+trail+boss
Condor Greenland Pattern Axe 26" $60 For the extra $7 the Husky axe seems superior so this one is probably out https://www.knifecenter.com/item/CN4070C225/condor-tool-knife-ctk4070c225-greenland-pattern-axe-carbon-steel-head-american-hickory-handle-leather-sheath

Tomahawks:
CRKT Cogan Woods Hawk $40 shipped https://www.amazon.com/Columbia-River-Knife-Tool-2730/dp/B00I04Q7LO/ref=sr_1_4?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1487683837&sr=1-4&keywords=cold+steel+rifleman%27s+hawk
Cold Steel Rifleman's Hawk $36 shipped https://www.knifecenter.com/item/CS90RH/cold-steel-90rh-riflemans-hawk-drop-forged-tomahawk-hammer-22-overall
Cold Steel Pipe Hawk $40 shipped https://www.knifecenter.com/item/CS90PHH/cold-steel-90phh-pipe-hawk-drop-forged-tomahawk
Cold Steel Trail Hawk $33 shipped https://www.knifecenter.com/item/CS90TH/cold-steel-90th-trail-hawk-drop-forged-tomahawk-22-overall
 
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I agree! An axe is far more efficient, especially if you've a lot to do, but lol, there's just that much more fun (for a while anyway, before it gets tedious) of hacking away at wood with a 2lb bowie!
 
Despite all the internet hype of how great the ESEE warranty is, my own personal experience has been that it is nothing more than a line of BS. I'll give a summary of my experience below. A bit more detailed account of my experience can be found here on BF.

I purchased a new Izula II from The Knife Connection. The knife arrived with 2 defects, a bad off center grind and problems with the scales. No problem, right, after all ESEE brags about their "No Questions Asked Lifetime Warranty," how hard could it be for ESEE to just send me a replacement knife? Well after contacting ESEE, one of the owners directed me to send the knife to Rowen and assured me that they would "FIX" the problems.

The Izula II was returned from Rowen with a half assed sloppy uneven regrind on the blade. The scales still had the same issue.

Voicing my discontent of the quality of the warranty work from Rowen with one of the ESEE owners, I requested a new replacement Izula II knife. The ESEE owner response was to send me a money order for the replacement value of the knife along with this statement, "Thank you for trying our knives :)" The ESEE owner flat refused to send me a replacement Izula II.

After owning 15 various ESEE knives, spending between $1500 - $2000 on them, such a response is totally unacceptable. ESEE is a company I do not trust and do not recommend.

The likelihood of me ever purchasing anything from ESEE, Rowen, or The Knife Connection is near to none.

Maybe, maybe not!?

But in any event, The Knife Connection shouldn't be using the following ESEE warranty on their website, considering ESEE refused to honor it. IMO such a business practice is less than ethical.



Also it makes me wonder, The Knife Connection, being one of ESEE's top vendors, why they are promoting an outdated ESEE warranty and not the most recent one, to me that is a less than honest business practice.

And I agree, my sentiment is I should have been sent a replacement Izula II. But at this point my level of distrust is equally the same for ESEE / Rowen and The Knife Connection.

You got the knife and your money back. I'm guessing you didn't try to exchange it with TKC. Esee has a history of not wanting difficult customers to own their knives.....
 
The Izula was sent back to ESEE per their request.

Thanks for the update. I wonder what other information you left out :confused:

Should have contacted the dealer, so there is that lesson to learn. You got your money back. Esee lost you as a customer. What is the problem exactly? They clearly don't see it as a problem. You are just a bit upset about it. Again, Esee doesn't like their customers to be idiots (not saying you are but it is in their warranty) and they have been known to ask troubled customers to stop buying their knives. Keeps unnecessary warranty costs down. Just like the last thread you brought this up completely off topic (a 5 year old necrothread no less) I'm done here too.
 
You won't go wrong with the ESEE 4hm, just keeping in mind that 1095 will rust. But use and patina help a lot with that, its not a big deal for a lot of people, but it does seem that some cannot handle having and scratch or mark on a blade. In my opinion that is inconsistent with a desire to also have a hard-use knife. Sure you can get some impressive corrosion resistance and edge toughness out of something like CPM3V especially with certain custom makers, but you pay the price. For a really solid knife that does exactly what its advertised to do, then ESEE/Rowen get the job done. That said, Becker are good too, but have the same expectation in regards to a high carbon blade.

Buckfynn, you did your-self a disservice by attaching your complaint to someone who was clearly asking an unreasonable thing of Rowen/ESEE, and had an unreasonable expectation of their blade. That whole thread is a complete mess of people having insane exceptions, and putting their desires for reality onto a company that has a pretty well established culture and ethos. It's like complaining that Case doesn't make a hard-use chopper, or ZT doesnt make a gentleman's slipjoint. If you want a knife to do a particular thing, you need to find out about the company that sells it, nothing exists in a vacuum, a lot of folks seem to forget that.
 
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I finally got to look at a few knives at Cabelas but holy crap are the prices way high there. I think they actually charge MSRP! :eek:

I held an ESEE 4 and hated it. It isn't a bushcraft/camping knife, I knew that. The handle is way too thin, too angular and way too short. The finger choil is too small. I don't even want a finger choil to be honest. Just not the knife I am looking for but the HM might be.

Also held an ESEE 5 just for the heck of it. The handle is longer than the 4 so it's better but still too thin and too angular. They didn't have a 6 but I'm suspecting I'd dislike the handle on that too. So if I want an ESEE it will have to be one of the HM or Camp Lore models.

Still wrestling with carbon vs stainless. I know myself and I am never going to be a real "knife guy" and my opportunities to actually get out in the woods will be few and far between so I worry that I won't keep up with the proper care of a high carbon blade and I'll end up with an expensive pile of rust.

I played with my Mora Robust for the first time yesterday. Cut a few small branches and did a little feather stick making. Then went in and sliced some cheddar cheese. It did well with all of it, very well. Still can't believe it's a $15 knife. Being a carbon blade I will see how well I manage to keep it rust free. I did wash and dry it before and after slicing the cheddar with it but I didn't oil it. Maybe the Mora stainless steel bushcraft survival knife is the way to go if I can stand the orange. It's stainless, thicker than the Companion, comes with a fire steel. Lots of bang for the buck and good quality.

I actually liked the Buck Selkirk quite a bit but it's made in China. I know I am considering the Steel Will Druid 205 or 265 which are also made in China but something just seems more wrong with a Buck knife made in China. The Selkirk has a lot to offer for under $50 on Amazon, an awful lot. I really would prefer to spend my money on American made products, or at least quality imports not from China. I dunno.
 
I finally got to look at a few knives at Cabelas but holy crap are the prices way high there. I think they actually charge MSRP! :eek:

This is no joke! A year or so ago my local Cabela's got Esees in. I was talking to one of the counter guys about them and he said they weren't a great value and I had to point out to him, "well of course not! With what you guys are trying to charge for them!" They were charging almost 50% more than what I paid at TKC for mine. No sane person is going to pay what they are asking. I know their knives are overpriced but the Esees were more so than all the other brands.

And if you didn't like the 5 in hand you won't like the 6 either. They use the exact same scales but the 6 is thinner, same thickness as the 4. The TKC G10 scales totally change this though but they add more cost. If you are enjoying the Mora then there is no doubt a different version that might get you closer to what you want at not much cost. Lots of different flavors with Mora.

I saw somewhere in this thread the recommendation of the Gerber Strongarm. If you want an inexpensive stainless knife I would absolutely look at this more!
 
Yeah, I am not dissing the ESEE knives, they just aren't what I am looking for with the possible exception of the HM or Camp Lore models if I decide carbon steel is ok for me.

I am also trying to avoid becoming a knife collector. I just can't afford that right now, lol. So while I love a good value which the Mora's are great for there is still a part of me that wants that knife that will satisfy the cool factor. I know, grow up, but I'm just being honest.

With the realization that there isn't going to be a one knife solution for my needs, especially with CT laws, I need to decide which course to take. Be impatient and get my axe/hatchet/tomahawk and my belt knife and my edc knife now and settle a little or wait and get the cooler stuff and spend more than I really should. My decision to make, just have to make it.

I think I am down to the CRKT Woods Chogan tomahawk ($40 shipped) or the Hardcore Hammers Supernaturalist hatchet ($73 shipped) for a chopping tool. Neither come with sheaths but they seem to be excellent tools for the money.

Still leaning towards a RAT folder for EDC. Need to decide on RAT 1 or 2 and if I go with 1 do I spend more for D2 steel or just go with AUS-8.
 
Yeah, I am not dissing the ESEE knives, they just aren't what I am looking for with the possible exception of the HM or Camp Lore models if I decide carbon steel is ok for me.

I am also trying to avoid becoming a knife collector. I just can't afford that right now, lol. So while I love a good value which the Mora's are great for there is still a part of me that wants that knife that will satisfy the cool factor. I know, grow up, but I'm just being honest.

With the realization that there isn't going to be a one knife solution for my needs, especially with CT laws, I need to decide which course to take. Be impatient and get my axe/hatchet/tomahawk and my belt knife and my edc knife now and settle a little or wait and get the cooler stuff and spend more than I really should. My decision to make, just have to make it.

I think I am down to the CRKT Woods Chogan tomahawk ($40 shipped) or the Hardcore Hammers Supernaturalist hatchet ($73 shipped) for a chopping tool. Neither come with sheaths but they seem to be excellent tools for the money.

Still leaning towards a RAT folder for EDC. Need to decide on RAT 1 or 2 and if I go with 1 do I spend more for D2 steel or just go with AUS-8.

The 1 is significantly larger. Do you like bigger blades in a folder? I had a Zancudo which is very close to a RAT 2 (same size and materials, framelock and different blade shape though). I found the blade too small. I prefer >=3.5" blades in a folder. As for the steel, if it were me I'd likely get the D2 though I have plenty of AUS8. D2 will hold its edge noticeably longer but it will be harder to sharpen. How are your sharpening skills?

As for the axe, I wouldn't get one without a sheath. Honestly, for an inexpensive hatchet or small axe I would just go down to the orange big box home improvement store and get an Estwing. I have several and the are decent and priced fairly. I paid about $40 for the large camper's axe. The company has a good reputation and they are made in the USA. You can handle before you buy of course.
 
The 1 is significantly larger. Do you like bigger blades in a folder? I had a Zancudo which is very close to a RAT 2 (same size and materials, framelock and different blade shape though). I found the blade too small. I prefer >=3.5" blades in a folder. As for the steel, if it were me I'd likely get the D2 though I have plenty of AUS8. D2 will hold its edge noticeably longer but it will be harder to sharpen. How are your sharpening skills?

As for the axe, I wouldn't get one without a sheath. Honestly, for an inexpensive hatchet or small axe I would just go down to the orange big box home improvement store and get an Estwing. I have several and the are decent and priced fairly. I paid about $40 for the large camper's axe. The company has a good reputation and they are made in the USA. You can handle before you buy of course.

Good idea with the axe/hatchet. I will check into what is around locally. The ones I mentioned have sheaths available for more money of course. They had some at Cabelas but again prices were crazy and what they had didn't appeal to me that much. They had an Estwing hatchet but it was the smaller one. I've had Estwing hammers and a small maul, good tools.

One thing that is appealing to me about the tomahawks is that you can get a lighter head like a hatchet but with a longer handle like a camp axe. That gives you the option to use it one or two handed. Yes, the lighter head will mean it won't chop like a camp axe but it will be much lighter and still chop better than a hatchet since it has a longer handle allowing a two handed grip with more swinging power. That's the theory anyway.

As for the folder, I have handled a RAT II and I liked it but I might want bigger, not sure. Right now I carry a little Gerber Ripstop I got for $10. Good little knife but smaller than the RAT II and I fumble with it in my XL hands. That said, the folder will be for edc when I go out with the wife/kids and to church, etc. So I want discrete, not a woods folder. The RAT II is a nice size for that but not offered in D2.

So I need to go with a RAT 1 or something else if I want D2. I looked online at the ESEE folders. Not sure if I want the frame lock though. Saw reviews on the Avispa that the belt clip rests on the frame lock portion and makes it more difficult to work. Kind of a bad design there. The Zancudo is nice because it is offered in D2 if I want the smaller knife. So yeah, more choices to consider. :rolleyes:
 
I like that are asking the right questions and looking closely before jumping.

Invest a good bit into your folder. Spyderco and Benchmade do some very well. A mid sized folder are well useful. Really don't want to go too big here.

Look at the Terava 110 and Skrama. I'm a huge fan and pretty sure you would do well with them. Great Y tube vids on them. You might have to wait until in stock again as they fly off the shelf.
Do look at getting yourself a Silky Saw too.

Do buy second hand off here. A new knife is only new for a day or two in the woods. Loads of excellent hardly used knives to be had off the forum. Just research what you really want first.

Lastly, leave some budget for your sharpening kit. You can get some excellent results with some very basic equipment. No need to go mad on a high cost machine until you have high cost knives that demand them. Those who can sharpen well built their skills from trying, even making mistakes, but got there in the end. The right edge is the one that suits you and the blade style's purpose which is rarely the one that came from the factory.
Keep reading up on it all. Watching videos. Classic designs and KISS are best. Watch out for all the hype, its fun, but its marketing!
 
Do buy second hand off here. A new knife is only new for a day or two in the woods. Loads of excellent hardly used knives to be had off the forum. Just research what you really want first.

This. I buy most of my stuff off the exchange you can often save 25-30%. I'll just add to research your transaction partner and always use paypal good and services.

Lastly, leave some budget for your sharpening kit. You can get some excellent results with some very basic equipment. No need to go mad on a high cost machine until you have high cost knives that demand them. Those who can sharpen well built their skills from trying, even making mistakes, but got there in the end. The right edge is the one that suits you and the blade style's purpose which is rarely the one that came from the factory.
Keep reading up on it all. Watching videos. Classic designs and KISS are best. Watch out for all the hype, its fun, but its marketing!

And this. No matter the knife, if you use it you will need to sharpen it. My most used sharpening kit cost ~a total of $35: a two sided norton stone and a cheap ceramic rod. Practice on cheap kitchen knives (that likely need sharpening anyway) first. I keep all my knives shaving sharp with this setup and I barely own a knife that cost less than said setup. $30-$500 knives all get sharpened the same way for me.
 
If you are really on a budget there is no need for a fixed blade utility and fixed blade survival knife. I understand you want them but trust me, you won't need or use them.

A Kershaw skyline for your pocket, then a Mora Kansbol and a Condor machete will cover 99% of everything a person would need a blade for outside of the kitchen. You can have all three shipped to your door for probably less than $125
 
If you are really on a budget there is no need for a fixed blade utility and fixed blade survival knife. I understand you want them but trust me, you won't need or use them.

A Kershaw skyline for your pocket, then a Mora Kansbol and a Condor machete will cover 99% of everything a person would need a blade for outside of the kitchen. You can have all three shipped to your door for probably less than $125

This is a path I am looking at. I will probably opt for an axe or tomahawk over machete due to CT laws and due to more of a need to chop wood than clear brush. I may step back from the more expensive Husqvarna axe or the Hardcore Hammers hatchet. Like mentioned earlier I may be able to grab something much cheaper that will do the job. The Cold Steel Trail Boss small axe is $25 shipped but may be a little heavier than I really want. Cold Steel also has several tomahawks for under $30 that just may need some extra tweaking and sharpening.

I do have a couple of cheap machetes I use on my own property and they certainly are great for brush and small wood chopping. I need to sharpen them though.

Sharpening kits are something I need to consider. What about the Work Sharp stuff? They were pushing that at Cabelas and it seems to get good reviews online.
 
This is a path I am looking at. I will probably opt for an axe or tomahawk over machete due to CT laws and due to more of a need to chop wood than clear brush. I may step back from the more expensive Husqvarna axe or the Hardcore Hammers hatchet. Like mentioned earlier I may be able to grab something much cheaper that will do the job. The Cold Steel Trail Boss small axe is $25 shipped but may be a little heavier than I really want. Cold Steel also has several tomahawks for under $30 that just may need some extra tweaking and sharpening.

I do have a couple of cheap machetes I use on my own property and they certainly are great for brush and small wood chopping. I need to sharpen them though.

Sharpening kits are something I need to consider. What about the Work Sharp stuff? They were pushing that at Cabelas and it seems to get good reviews online.

I have a work sharp. It does what it says. I only use it for big jobs like reprofiling or fixing damaged edges. I am not one to let my knives get dull. The cheap ceramic rod I mention above does 90% of keeping my stuff hair shaving sharp. If you don't want to get into hand sharpening the work sharp is a great avenue with not much learning curve. I just prefer hand sharpening. Cost is a consideration. With time and practice you can get a good setup for almost all your needs for $35 like I said above.
 
Hi everybody. sorry, but I'm finding information about this knife... Can you help me?

I don't know much about knife. this knife gave me my father about 20 years ago...
I want to know if this knife is original?
what is it's model? and if you say me more characteristics can be great. Thank you...

17021526_10155081021529776_8581726173762316318_n.jpg
 
Hi everybody. sorry, but I'm finding information about this knife... Can you help me?

I don't know much about knife. this knife gave me my father about 20 years ago...
I want to know if this knife is original?
what is it's model? and if you say me more characteristics can be great. Thank you...

You should start your own thread. This thread is about a completely different topic.
 
Been looking at the Ontario SK5 Blackbird. Seems like a nice, simple, utilitarian stainless steel knife with pretty good quality for $115. 154CM stainless steel with a decently functional nylon sheath. Any thoughts?
 
Looks pretty decent, if you dig it, get it. I have no experience with this particular knife but Ontario are ok.

For utility knives (i.e. not sitting on the shelf) I like kydex or plastic rigid sheaths though. Again, can't say anything about this model's nylon sheath except I probably would not like it.

My advice is try the knife in your hands before you buy it. Look at the sheath. If you really, really like the knife you can get a custom sheath made for it.
 
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