Newbie's second question..Return of Newbie

J

Jimmymac1000

Joined
Feb 9, 2000
Messages
6
First off THANKS for all the help guys. You are a great bunch !

Ok so far I've purchased:
a)A Spyderco Harpy on Ebay with a G-10 handle
b)A Utica Cutlery Mountain Quest Series Boaters knife with a Marlin Spike.
c) A SAK Champ
d) A Leatherman Wave

So I was camping last weekend trying out different gear, and sitting around the fire thinking about which utility blade to get.. A Spyderco Endura or a Benchmade 710BT Black coated blade (What's this coated with ?).

It hit me while I was cooking that I dont want to be cutting up my food with Salt Water Tuf-Coat on my knife. Also I don't want to be in the Amazon or Serengeti or South Pacific and have to worry about applying Tuf-Coat or getting more. So in my mind..I decided on the Benchmade 710BT.

So I got home on Monday and went to Barnes and Nobles to buy a bunch of books and picked up a copy of Blade magazine (April 2000). I read an article by Joe Kertzman and he quotes Will Fennel talking about coatings on knife and he says, " silver chromium nitride is far better than Titanium carbonitride when submerged in seawater". Since I will be spending extended time on and off shore..I sure dont want rust and I dont want to have to worry about overdosing on Tuf-Coat..I'm serious.

So..

1)Is silver chromium nitride really better than titanium carbonitride and teflon etc. etc. etc ?

2) Since I am considering a coated blade.. this opens up what material my blade can be made from right ?

3) What folder should I get now ? This thing has to last and go through hell.. possibly. I actually hope not.

4) What should I get to sharpen these knives with ? I'll need a sharpener for the boat and maybe two sharpeners for the field.

5) what oil or whatever should I keep in my pack and on the boat to coat the eating-food blade with ? i'll keep marine tuf coat on the boat for the other blades.

Sorry if that is a really long post.
jimmy

 
I was under the impression the Tuff-Cloth was fairly food safe. Someone correct me if I'm wrong.

If you're worried about corrsion, you might think of spending the extra money on a Talonite blade. Since it is not a steel, it won't rust. Maybe something with Ti liners, because 6Al/4V Ti won't rust either. That way you don't have to worry about blade coatings. Justa suggestion...all depends on budget.
smile.gif


~Mitch
 
Hello,

Id get a Talonite blade if your going to be around that much water, Rob Simmonich and
Camillus would be a Great Choice for one, Also TOPS knives Shadow Hunter Model would be a good Choice. I think RON HOOD at hoods woods is offering a Rob Simonich Offering.

Im finding out that for Cutting ability and Total corrosion Resistance in any NATURAL environment nothing Beats it, Except Similar alloys, and then they compare in the Corrosion dept only.

But i think to Answer your Topical Question,

id go with the SPYDERCO Endura, Proven Design, Good Utility, And always Works and a better price to i belive.

My .02

Allen

[This message has been edited by Allen Blade (edited 02-16-2000).]
 
Jimmy, I'll try and answer your questions in the order you asked:

1)According to an article in this months Blade silver chromium nitrade is better than the other protectants. However it's a bit like saying a Ferrari is faster than a Porsche, they're both fast.

2)If you're getting a coated blade a steel that might nornally be considered not suitable for a marine enviornment might become an option. It all depends on what you're looking for.

3)Of the folders you talked about I'd go with the 710. It's tough, G-10 handles, good lock, etc. Besides, as much as I like the Endura (I own three) I don't like or trust lock-backs. If you want it do last on a boat, LANYARD RING!
smile.gif


4)A sharpener for the boat, go for a Spyderco 204, for the field, try the Gatco Tri-Seps or one of the DMT diamond hones.

5)About the only food-safe oil is mineral oil. Don't use vegetable oils, they will go rancid and let me tell you, nothing smells like that!

I hope this helps.

------------------
"Better to reign in Hell, than serve in Heav'n"
John Milton
There are only two types of people; those who understand this, and those who think they do.
 
I’ll second Allen Blade's opinion about the endura - great knife and excellent value.

I even dive with it -attached to my gear with a string - and if rinsed after every dive and oiled / tuf clothed it will stay nice and rust-free forever.

As for a big knife - the Mission Titanium is also an option, either the MPK or the cheaper MPS - both very good for salt-water environment.

Just my .02
smile.gif



[This message has been edited by Blilious (edited 02-16-2000).]
 
No one has mentioned David Boye's cobalt alloy knives yet. Long before Talonite and long before Stellite David was producing cobalt alloy fixed and folding blade knives that work.

Oddly enough, after pointing this out I must admit that I don't own one if the cobalt Boyes. I've carried a Spyderco Bob T as a backup knife diving and kayaking and all I've ever done is to rinse it off and let it air dry and it's performed properly for years. My primary knife has been a Gerber Blackie Collins River Master (not the River Shorty which I consider to be a dangerous knife design) and it's received the same treatment without a problem.

I guess the bottom line is that a properly made stainless/resistant knife will do for most aquatic applications. If you need a heavy knife for chopping/prying then I don't have anything to suggest.

Take care,

Mike

------------------
TANSTAAFL
 
hso wrote:
"I guess the bottom line is that a properly made stainless/resistant knife will do for most aquatic applications."

==========================

Absolutely. Let's not forget that people were sailing the seven seas with good carbon steel blades lashed to their belts hundreds of years ago. I think ANY Spyderco will make you very happy. Or any Buck for that matter.
 
Um, Allen, are you or are you not doing Talonite blades anymore? I had thought you were. Or are you still on sabbatical until you catch up?

------------------
"Absolute safety is for those who don't have the balls to live in the real world."
 
any knife should be okay as long as you rinse it and dry it after use. the only knife i've ever had develop real rust spots was a buck crosslock that i clipped to a pair of shorts for the hot tub. i was in the water about two hours and the next morning saw about a dozen little brown spots. I used to work outdoors on a daily basis and never had trouble with a spyderco rescue in AUS-8 even when i did neglect it.

for the ultimate get a blade in talonite or BDC as mentioned before. these are a good bit more expensive and you could get two or three enduras for the price of one. myself, i'd go for an endura or similar piece like the LW Goddard.
 
Originally posted by mnblade:
...Absolutely. Let's not forget that people were sailing the seven seas with good carbon steel blades lashed to their belts hundreds of years ago...
Click to expand...

Yes of course - but the same people were sailing in wooden ships - would you recommend anyone to build his ship from wood today given the hi tech option (kevlar, carbon-fibers, fiberglass etc) times have changed and technology has advanced - lets take advantage of it..


 
Blilious:
My point was simply that I think the "hi tech" option is the way to go - but not necessarily "super really bitchin hi tech." Cost IS an option for some people and I don't think anyone needs to break the bank when there are loads of great stainless knives and multi-tools that will perform wonderfully on the high seas and still cost less than $100.
 
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