Next sharpening stone?

sharp_edge · Apr 29, 2022

I currently have a set of 8" Ultrasharp diamond stones at 300, 600, and 1,200 grit respectively and I use them to mainly sharpen my kitchen knives of VG-10, AS, and SKD. I also use them on folding knives ocassionally like those with K390 and M390 steel. I can get all edges very sharp but just wonder if another stone of higher grit will make them even sharper and more polished. If I buy only one waterstone/whestone like Shapton glass, should I get a 2k or 3k? Or should I buy a Spyderco ceramic stone instead? Thanks much.

kobold · Apr 29, 2022

I think you are all set with what you have, presuming you have a strop or two.

3D Anvil · Apr 29, 2022

You can definitely get a more polished edge. Probably a little sharper too, although at the expense of toothiness if you like toothy edges.

The Naniwa/Chosera 3000 is supposed to be a terrific stone, but my recommendation would be the Venev 800/1200 combination stone. That's using the Fepa F system. In my experience it roughly equates to a 2000/3000 in the JIS scale. The 800 side produces a nice bright bevel, and the 1200 side brings it to a near-mirror finish.

NeedItCheaper · Apr 29, 2022

sharp_edge said:
I currently have a set of 8" Ultrasharp diamond stones at 300, 600, and 1,200 grit respectively and I use them to mainly sharpen my kitchen knives of VG-10, AS, and SKD. I also use them on folding knives ocassionally like those with K390 and M390 steel. I can get all edges very sharp but just wonder if another stone of higher grit will make them even sharper and more polished. If I buy only one waterstone/whestone like Shapton glass, should I get a 2k or 3k? Or should I buy a Spyderco ceramic stone instead? Thanks much.

Edit;

For low vanadium steels, I've been using Dan's Arkansas stones; Soft, Hard, Black for over a decade. They are definitely slower to sharpen than whetstones and way slower than diamond stone. But will last a lifetime and do a decent enough job.

Lately I've been getting into whetstones. So far, the Chosera 3000 is my favorite whetstone to sharpen with. Has done well with my 1095 knives. Take this with a grain of salt because I've only had the Chosera for a week, but it gets sharp enough for any job other than shaving my legs butter smooth.

sharp_edge · Apr 29, 2022

Thanks guys. Yes - I am very happy with the performance of kitchen knives that I sharpen with these stones and I do have strops loaded with diamond pastes.

I think 3k diamond stone could be another option although for whatever reason I somehow think I should pick whetstones at such high grits.

I will look into the stones recommended by far. Thanks again.

sharp_edge · Apr 30, 2022

Multiple reviews on Chosera 3000 on the big river site show pictures of surface cracks on this stone even though it looks to still have a lot of life left. Should this be a concern? Anyone here using this stone experienced this?

Artyh · Apr 30, 2022

I have used a variety of Japanese waterstones, Spyderco Ceramic stones, and Norton ceramic stones. I find a 1200 grit stone great for a variety of kitchen knives and pocket knives. When I want a finer edge, as for a boning or fillet knife, I prefer the convenience of a Spyderco fine ceramic or a Norton ceramic stone. The Norton ceramics are flatter than the Spyderco stones that I have, and work better for tool blades. I use oilstones, like the Arkansas stones, for simpler steel tool blades, like chisels or plane irons.

NORTHWEST_KNIFE_GUY · Apr 30, 2022

If you get another finer diamond plate IMO skip the 2200 and go for the 3k, leaves a really nice edge and if followed by one of the sintered ceramic stones it leaves a very high polish. Personally when I sharpen higher carbide steels I normally finish right off 325 or 600 DMT plate however that's just a personal preference. The high grit waterstones will normally polish well especially since you can generate a slurry on them however may not be the best choice for the higher alloy steels. For your kitchen knives a good set of shaptons, naniwas etc. would serve you better IMO.

kobold · Apr 30, 2022

sharp_edge said:
Multiple reviews on Chosera 3000 on the big river site show pictures of surface cracks on this stone even though it looks to still have a lot of life left. Should this be a concern? Anyone here using this stone experienced this?

They are not natural stones and are not supposed to be soaked, just a splash-n-go. IME cracks appear when soaked excessively, but they wont influence the performance of the stone, unless, I guess, we keep soaking them again and again. Lesson learned, but no damage done. Using just the splash-n-go method, no cracks will appear.

murat1983 · Apr 30, 2022

sharp_edge said:
Multiple reviews on Chosera 3000 on the big river site show pictures of surface cracks on this stone even though it looks to still have a lot of life left. Should this be a concern? Anyone here using this stone experienced this?

I have been using Chosera 3000 for more than two years now and it does not have any crack. Actually, none of my Chosera has any cracks on them. I either just spray water on them or dip them into the water for 5-10 seconds before the start of the sharpening. I keep the surface moist during the sharpening by water spray. A few times I left them dry without even washing them, but most of the time I was them with cold or lukewarm water and then put them aside for drying. I believe it is important to keep them away from heat and prolonged soaking with water.

sharp_edge · May 5, 2022

Guys - I found out that there are different versions or generations of Naniwa stones. When you said Chosera 3000 in this thread, you meant the Naniwa Professional ones, correct? It is about $120, twice as expensive as the Naniwa Super stone of the same grit.

Wandering_About · May 5, 2022

I'd suggest a different track: smooth leather strop with diamond spray. I use 1 micron, 2 micron works as well. 1200 grit is a nice edge and a strop will do a lot to refine it.

If you still want a stone that is more fine, the Naniwa Professional 3000 grit is a very nice one. Not ideal for K390 or M390(diamond stones work best for steels with higher vanadium contents), but for anything else you mentioned it's an excellent stone. As mentioned, don't soak it for extended amounts of time. I have so far had no issues with cracking on any of my Naniwa Pro series stones.

murat1983 · May 5, 2022

sharp_edge said:
Guys - I found out that there are different versions or generations of Naniwa stones. When you said Chosera 3000 in this thread, you meant the Naniwa Professional ones, correct? It is about $120, twice as expensive as the Naniwa Super stone of the same grit.

I am not 100 % sure but I think they go by the name of Chosera stones in Japan but Professional stones in the rest of the world. They should be the same stones. Super stones are not the same, they are cheaper as you suggested.

rm41400 · May 5, 2022

The Naniwa 3000 Chosera is absolutely awesome. I gave rave reviews here and on the river.

However, sadly after about a year of use I finally ended up with the dreaded surface cracks. It seems to function ok since but it’s a real bummer on a $120 stone. Not sure I would buy again… we shall see

(it is good enough to consider and with the lingering thought of “if ONLY I had just surface sprayed it and avoided a quick dunk”)

I never soaked and stored exclusively in my temperate controlled toy/work area with 15+ other water stones and a bunch of high end guitars that require humidity control. Nothing else has had a problem…

When I sprayed the surface with water I never had a problem. On one single occasion I did about a 1 second dunk in 2” of water. Shockingly this was the straw that broke the Choseras back… next morning cracks all over it. It does still seem usable though…

If you don’t want this worry in the back of your mind grab the regular Shapton Pro for like $40-50. It’s a go to work horse. Does most everything the Chosera 3000 does with just a bit less polish.

BTW I have the 1200 atoma and it’s a significant jump In Refinement to the Shapton K 2000.

rm41400 · May 5, 2022

rocketbomb said:
I'd suggest a different track: smooth leather strop with diamond spray. I use 1 micron, 2 micron works as well. 1200 grit is a nice edge and a strop will do a lot to refine it.

If you still want a stone that is more fine, the Naniwa Professional 3000 grit is a very nice one. Not ideal for K390 or M390(diamond stones work best for steels with higher vanadium contents), but for anything else you mentioned it's an excellent stone. As mentioned, don't soak it for extended amounts of time. I have so far had no issues with cracking on any of my Naniwa Pro series stones.

Hey this is interesting. So you do short soaks on your Naniwa Professional 3000?

I thought this was an exact replacement for the 3000 chosera just without the base.

See my post above on the 3 k chosera for reference. Thanks!

Btw I have Naniwa Chosera 400, ,800,1000, 3000 and loved them all except for frustration with the 3 k cracking

Wandering_About · May 5, 2022

Far as I know the Professional is the replacement for the Chosera. I spray mine with a water bottle, or maybe run some water from the faucet on them depending on what setup i am using. I do not soak them submerged in water at all, and let them dry out in open air after using them.

sharp_edge · May 6, 2022

rm41400 said:
The Naniwa 3000 Chosera is absolutely awesome. I gave rave reviews here and on the river.

However, sadly after about a year of use I finally ended up with the dreaded surface cracks. It seems to function ok since but it’s a real bummer on a $120 stone. Not sure I would buy again… we shall see (it is good enough to consider and with the lingering thought of “if ONLY I had just surface sprayed it and avoided a quick dunk”)

I never soaked and stored exclusively in my temperate controlled toy/work area with 15+ other water stones and a bunch of high end guitars that require humidity control. Nothing else has had a problem…

When I sprayed the surface with water I never had a problem. On one single occasion I did about a 1 second dunk in 2” of water. Shockingly this was the straw that broke the Choseras back… next morning cracks all over it. It does still seem usable though…

If you don’t want this worry in the back of your mind grab the regular Shapton Pro for like $40-50. It’s a go to work horse. Does most everything the Chosera 3000 does with just a bit less polish.

BTW I have the 1200 atoma and it’s a significant jump In Refinement to the Shapton K 2000.

Now I think you've planted that concern of "what if it cracks" in my mind regarding Chosera 3K. If I buy a Shapton Pro stone, which grit do you think I should go with? Again, I currently have Ultrasharp diamonds of 300, 600, 1,200 grit and would like to add only one whetstone/waterstone to follow the diamond ones (and I have leather strops with diamond pastes).

rm41400 · May 6, 2022

sharp_edge said:
Now I think you've planted that concern of "what if it cracks" in my mind regarding Chosera 3K. If I buy a Shapton Pro stone, which grit do you think I should go with? Again, I currently have Ultrasharp diamonds of 300, 600, 1,200 grit and would like to add only one whetstone/waterstone to follow the diamond ones (and I have leather strops with diamond pastes).

The 2000 fills the void my chosera left nicely. (See my post above). It leaves a much more refined/polished edge than my 1200 atoma diamond plate. So it should be perfect for you.

if you still wanted more refinement you could add the 8k Shapton K or pro and still be less than the 3 k chosera.

I use the 2k and 8k a lot sharpening barber and grooming shears and they are real work horses.

Just to be fair though… when my 3k chosera was sitting there and my 2k Shapton I almost always grabbed the 3k. It does everything the 2 k does but just a little better with more range. If it weren’t for the cracking issue I would have reordered asap and may still get one down the road.

murat1983 · May 6, 2022

rm41400 said:
When I sprayed the surface with water I never had a problem. On one single occasion I did about a 1 second dunk in 2” of water. Shockingly this was the straw that broke the Choseras back… next morning cracks all over it. It does still seem usable though…

Such a short dip into the water will not cause this problem. Especially if you are not doing it all the time. I soked my stones (including the 3000) more than you did but never get the crack problem. I think the reason of the crack is something else. Perhaps a potential heat source near to the stone?

rm41400 · May 6, 2022

murat1983 said:
Such a short dip into the water will not cause this problem. Especially if you are not doing it all the time. I soked my stones (including the 3000) more than you did but never get the crack problem. I think the reason of the crack is something else. Perhaps a potential heat source near to the stone?

Yeah that’s what I thought but it happened at exactly the same time. Maybe a couple second dunk… previously only surface sprayed.

No heat source. The sun doesn’t even reach that far into the room. Stays around 70* 40-50 RH.