Nice Hamon on Everest Katana!

Joined
Oct 16, 2000
Messages
118
I did a little experimentation with my Katana today, trying to reveal some of the hamon. I am not experienced at revealing hamon, but I was partially succesfully. I only got about 8 inches of the hamon to show, but I was VERY pleased. The hamon was certainly wasn't a basic, straight hamon. The Hamon that I saw took a number of billowy rises and dips, in addition, the most interesting part was that the hamon rode quite high on the blade, most of it laying at the midway point of the blade (as you can see, I don't command much katana terminology), but parts of it actually going above the midway point, like many antique katana I have seen.

For this test I merely swabbed lemon juice over the blade with paper towel and let it sit. After I was done looking at the hamon, I used high grit sandpaper to bring the blade back to a satin finish.

What can I do to improve my rather..err...crude method?

How can I bring out the whole hamon?

thanks
Matt
 
Matt, ferric chloride etchant available from Radio Shack is also a good possibility. Do a search in this forum and the archives for more info.

Harry
 
:
And just in case you get FNG for a salesperson you can ask for PCB etchant and then look on the ingredients.
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I also understand that if you etch the blade to reveal the hamon that it has to stay on for quite some time.
BA made a post about using the ferric chloride that may give some more info or a post in the Shoptalk Forum about etching may give you enough info as well.
You mght ask how long to leave the etchant on for a permanent revelation of the hamon.

If/When I get my Katana I am goig to try and polish it out instead of etching it. I don't know if it's possible but you ever know until it's tried.
I am thinking a final rub with chrome oxide might do the job, that is if I have the patience to do it, it will no doubt take much longer than putting a single edge bevel on a JKM-1 or JKM-2.
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>>>>---Yvsa-G@WebTV.net---->®

"VEGETARIAN".............
Indin word for lousy hunter.
 
Matt B,

Using some type of acidic fruit will bring out the hamon of a blade. It is a mild way to etch blades. In the P.I., lime juice or the equivalent is used to etch blades. When I etch blades with ferric chloride, I usually do it several times. The hardened edge will get etched at a different rate than the softer body. I like to leave the etchant for 2 hrs., then clean off the residue and then polish the blade with Flitz metal polish. I will keep going through these steps until I like what I see. Hope this helps.
 
:
I seem to recall a pic of the katana BA brought out the hamon line on.
And since Rusty managed to snatch one up that has a bit of rust on it I thought he might be interested in going further with it.

BA (et al) if you happen to see this it would be great if you could describe your polishing procedure for us.
I see were you've used the Flitz Metal Polish, but am wondering if there were any beginning steps you used prior to the etching?
And I am also wondering about the durability of the hamon line under utility use, does it last alright or is this something that has to be restored from time to time?

Oh yeah!!!!
What about that wooden Barong Model?
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Yvsa.

"VEGETARIAN".............
Indin word for lousy hunter.
 
Here's the pic of BA's handiwork:
ffb5752a.jpg
- lifted from Uncle Bill's files on Zing, which I think is about to go toes up, so save the pic if you want it for future reference. If BA gave a detailed description of the process he used, I couldn't find it in a cursory search, but here is a description by tallwingedgoat, with some inputs from Yvsa, G6, and others.
 
:
Thanks for the pic Berk. That's exactly the one I was looking for, guess I didn't go back far enough.
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The ones I have etched haven't been polished out or used so the line is still there.
I may go out to a 2,000 grit using new paper for each swipe on the blade and see what happens, But it will go on the bottom of my list of things to do.
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At least that's the (one?) way several guys have described putting on a satin finish, just not to that degree.

And Bro I know all about those special projects since I have a couple in the works that are waaaayy over due.
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Yvsa.

"VEGETARIAN".............
Indin word for lousy hunter.

[This message has been edited by Yvsa (edited 06-17-2001).]
 
Uncle Bill,
You probably need to save your Zing photos to your hard drive and upload to PhotoPoint, if I understand this email:
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Zing Update
05/11/01
Dear ,
With the greatest regret we must inform you that, as of July 2, 2001, the Zing.com service will be shutting down permanently. After this date, your photos will no longer be available on Zing.com.

We understand how important your pictures are to you, and are pleased to announce that we have arranged for Ofoto, a Kodak company and the leading online photo service, to be the ongoing resource for all your future online photography needs.

Ofoto, a subsidiary of Eastman Kodak, is a fun and secure way for you to continue enjoying your photos online. Ofoto is an excellent long-term solution for all your online photography needs, including sharing, online storage and ordering high-quality prints.

Zing members who become Ofoto members for the first time will receive 15 free 4 x 6" print credits, as well as an exclusive introductory offer of 20% off every purchase at Ofoto between now and July 31, 2001.* Click here to join Ofoto and get started.

To help with the transfer of your photos from Zing to Ofoto, we have developed methods for you to retrieve your images from our site before July 2nd:

? Picture Downloader - Available for all Windows and Macintosh users, the Picture Downloader allows you to pull your images off the Zing site and into a local directory on your computer, where they will be organized by album. You can download and install the Picture Downloader application from the link above, or any of the other Picture Downloader links on the site.
? Save To Your Machine - Clicking this link takes you to a page that displays all your images. If your images do not all fit on a single page you may see multiple pages. From here, you can save each image individually or, if you are using Internet Explorer 5.0, you can save all of the images displayed on the page.

Once you have your images from Zing, you can upload to Ofoto those images you want to share or print using their free OfotoNow? software, now available on our site. OfotoNow is a convenient way to upload your images all at once, and it also comes with easy-to-use photo editing tools.

We at Zing will miss the wonderful interaction with you, our members, and regret any inconvenience this may cause. Thank you for all your support, and may you continue to enjoy your photos online.

Sincerely,

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Zing Network, Inc.

Please do not reply to this email. This is an important site update and is being sent to all Zing members regardless of subscription status.

*Offer expires July 31, 2001. Available to first time Ofoto registrants only. To be eligible for free prints, register as directed at on the link above. Free photo credits expire 60 days after you register with Ofoto. One offer per household (single use only). Promotion does not apply to shipping costs, applicable sales tax or Custom-Printed Cards. Cannot be combined with other offers. No substitutions, transfer rights or cash equivalent will be given.
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I have posted the entire email so I won't get my axe sued by Kodak or whoever, but I am not making any endorsements. In fact, I only posted one pic to Zing ever, and never could figure out how to access it or link to it. And as I said before, I'm paying the fee to keep on using PhotoPoint 'cause it's less hassle than moving, there ain't no such thing as a free lunch, and I've always had good luck with them (knock on wood).
Berk
 
I've fine tuned, to degree, my procedure for bringing out patterns in the steel...the new procedure has worked relatively well on two antique Tulwar. I don't use flitz though, I'm afraid that by rubbing it on I'll some how mess up or lighten the etched pattern....

question for Yvsa- I recently bought two keris with old (or at least old looking)blades. One of them has a greatly faded pamor. Though I am aware there is much lore around how to clean and etch the keris, I tried my method for bringing out the pamor and it hardly worked a all. What method do you use to clean and etch your keris?

regards
Matt
 
:
Matt the method I used really does leave a lot to be desired. But it did work and it takes a bit of messing with the blade to make it so.
After removing the handle, gently heat the blade near the top and with a twisting, pulling motion remove the handle. The handles are usually put on with a twist of hair or cloth rolled on the tang.

I soaked the blade in a mixture of concentrated lime juice and apple cider vinegar.
I know about acids and aluminium, but with mild acids like these one of the aluminium turkey roasting pans worked well for me.
I wouldn't use aluminium for any stronger acid though.

After soaking what little rust that was on the tang off, about 4 days of soaking, I washed it with dish soap and hot water and dried it
thoroughly.
The next step should be a mixture of arsenic and lime juice to bring out the pamor, but I wasn't sure where I could get arsenic and I really didn't want to mess with it anyway.
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I wound up using some Birchwood Casey's cold gun blue and the acid mixture to bring out the pamor the best I could by alternately using the blue and then soaking for short periods of time and rubbing very gently with 4 ought, 0000, steel wool.
I know it doesn't compare with the original method of cleaning and restoreing, but it helped it quite a bit.
On the other hand the very old or either horribly mistreated Keris I have didn't take to this method.
I don't know if there's any pamor left on the blade or if it needs the original restoreation to properly bring out the pamor.
One of these days I may try the arsenic if I can find where to get it without a lot of hassle.
But the problem of proper disposal worries me.
But then on the other hand my grandfather used Arsenic of Lead powder in water to kill any bugs on his tomato plants. He would gather a bunch of tall weeds and tie them together to use to brush the mixture on. When he was done he would pour any left over mixture around his fruit trees or berry bushes.

When you're done, if you try it, give the blade a good oiling and use a small strip of slightly oiled cloth replace the handle, again with a twisting motion.
Be careful to not get too big a piece of cloth and crack the handle.
Sometimes the handle on a Keris may be worth as much or more than the blade!!!

I think it's worth a doing a cleaning anyway on a Keris to remove any rust that may be present and to prevent any rust from forming.
I understand that people in the Keris countries either send or take their Keris for cleaning once a year.
I don't think we need to do it that often, but I do take mine apart periodically to check for rust and reoiling.


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Yvsa.

"VEGETARIAN".............
Indin word for lousy hunter.
 
:
And Thank You Bro for a place where we can discuss knives from all over the world.
What does it have to do with khukuris? Everything!!!!


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Yvsa.

"VEGETARIAN".............
Indin word for lousy hunter.
 
Thanx for the great answer Yvsa...

My method was alot harsher and quicker...but at least it got the rust off, though it only very slighty brought out the pamor.

Another question-will flitz rub off the pattern of a folded piece, or will it enhance it?

thanx
Matt
 
:
Good question Matt.
I bet the guys over in the Shoptalk Forum could answer this much better than anyone else.
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There are several guys over there that make some beautiful pattern welded steel.

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Yvsa.

"VEGETARIAN".............
Indin word for lousy hunter.
 
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