Nick in Wood Handle?

[sektr]

I got my new Helle Utvaer in the mail yesterday, and noticed a buildup of epoxy around the edge of one of the hollow bolsters. Took a pocket knife out and went to scraping it off with no issues.

Unfortunately, as I pulled away I slipped slightly and the tip of my pocket knife just barely nicked the wood scale of the Utvaer.

It left the tiniest, barely noticeable mark in the wood (literally had to inspect it under light and run my finger nail over it to find it), so aesthetically I don't care, it's bound to get more with use anyways.

However, I'm just wondering if this can affect the integrity of the handle in wet conditions? I put mineral oil on the handle anyways and made sure to get it in the nick really well. I'm assuming it's fine but wanna double check with the pros.

On a side note I've noticed there's not much info on the Utvaer here so figured I'd give some first impressions. The handle feels fantastic in my mid-large hands, Palm swell is perfect. Came shaving sharp and the fit and finish is perfect on it. Super lightweight for a full tang but feels like it'll hold up to some serious abuse. The leather sheath is the nicest I've seen.

Will make a full thread on it after more testing.

 

[alex]

I wouldn't use mineral oil on those good looking wood handles. I would recommend a good soaking in Danish oil which is especially made for wood and will help to increase the water resistance of the wood. if you really want to waterproof the handles get some Tru-oil gunstock finish. Put on multiple VERY thin coats allowing full drying between the coats and buff each coat when fully dry with 0000 steel wool before rubbing in the next coat. Make sure to clean off any particles of steel wool before applying each coat. You will really see the grain in the wood pop out and you can leave it either shiny or buff with the steel wool after the last coat is fully dry to a satin finish. The Tru-oil finish is very durable and waterproof and very easy to touch up if you ever manage to damage it or scratch it up somehow. It is very tough though. I personally like the satin finish on all of my wood handled knives.

The Tru-oil is more work but the Danish oil soak is much easier. I still prefer the Tru-oil finish.

By the way from what I saw online for that particular model the knife doesn't have any bolsters. I am assuming what you are calling bolsters are the hollow flared tubes that are holding the scales on.

 

[sektr]

I take it by your answer then that any minor debts/nicks in the handle are nothing to be concerned about?

Also for those curious, noticed upon closer inspection today that my wood scales appear slightly mismatched. Very detailed and intricate grain/burls on one side, other looks like plain walnut. One side is slightly longer than the other, and angles on the butt are differently sanded.

Honestly a little disappointed on the quality control for a $200 knife but it IS handmade at the same time so perfection is hard. Still feels extremely solid and high quality in hand, just minor nitpicking a on close inspection.

 

[EChoil]

Minor nicks and dings in wood are nothing to be concerned about. A Sharpie or something similar can do a lot cosmetically if desired, but those nicks and dings build the character of the handle over time. That's one of the values of wood---the older and more used, the better.

If you are concerned about water you can always apply a coat or two of clear polyurethane, which is the only foolproof thing out there. While there is nothing wrong with them, oils and waxes, etc. will bead water but eventually break down. I do use them for maintenance on woods though.

We all know bottom line is, though, you'll take care of that knife and it won't really ever be a problem for you. The first ding on a good knife is tough for a lot of people. If you're going to use it it's going to develop character so go for it....

As to the scales, Were they advertised to be facing sets? if it bothers you that much, return it for replacement or refund.

Damn....just Goog'd that knife. Beautiful, man. Curly burch isn't necessarily going to match up. It's advantages are mainly resistance to shrinkage and moisture as well as vibration comfort with hard use. I' a fan of Scandinavian knives. Mostly Sami knives and leuku/puukkos. They make great handles. If you can live with it I'd keep it. Just my .02.

 

[RevDevil]

I wouldn't use mineral oil on those good looking wood handles. I would recommend a good soaking in Danish oil which is especially made for wood and will help to increase the water resistance of the wood. if you really want to waterproof the handles get some Tru-oil gunstock finish. Put on multiple VERY thin coats allowing full drying between the coats and buff each coat when fully dry with 0000 steel wool before rubbing in the next coat. Make sure to clean off any particles of steel wool before applying each coat. You will really see the grain in the wood pop out and you can leave it either shiny or buff with the steel wool after the last coat is fully dry to a satin finish. The Tru-oil finish is very durable and waterproof and very easy to touch up if you ever manage to damage it or scratch it up somehow. It is very tough though. I personally like the satin finish on all of my wood handled knives.

The Tru-oil is more work but the Danish oil soak is much easier. I still prefer the Tru-oil finish.

By the way from what I saw online for that particular model the knife doesn't have any bolsters. I am assuming what you are calling bolsters are the hollow flared tubes that are holding the scales on.

Good advice. A slight ding that is barely noticeable is not going to wreck the knife. It's only a problem when a crack in the wood goes clear from one side to the other, or when the wood is split at a rivet/bolt. You can add a drop of CA glue (Google) and sand it down once it dries, it will not hurt the handle at all.

 

[marcinek]

I got my new Helle Utvaer in the mail yesterday, and noticed a buildup of epoxy around the edge of one of the hollow bolsters. Took a pocket knife out and went to scraping it off with no issues.

Unfortunately, as I pulled away I slipped slightly and the tip of my pocket knife just barely nicked the wood scale of the Utvaer.

Helle makes excellent, mass produced $200 knives. They do not make handmade customs.

I think your expectations for the knife are a bit off.

As for the minute Nick, Helle's site says to wax the handle occasionally. Beeswax or Ren Wax should be perfect.

 

[fsatsil]

If it's more of dent then an actual cut in the wood you may want to try using steam to remove/reduce it. Just google "gun stock dent removal" and you will find lots of information on the technique. It's normally used on wood gun stocks but it works for pretty much anything made of wood. Also, if you are looking for a good wax to put on the handle you should check out something called "Finn mix" it's a mix of beeswax, linseed oil, and turpentine and it really works well on knife handles.