Nick Wheeler- dial in plunge cuts- flat ground blades

I suppose, it could, but personally I wouldn't even consider it--- and here's why:

Even though it would improve control of the file--- You would still be filing a tiny little area that will have to be feathered in SMOOTH with the rest of the bevel. That's what I'm trying to steer people away from.

A wide, abrasive covered block that has the plunge radius you want--- is going to hit that entire area at one time, and make it SOOOOOO MUCH EASIER to get a smooth, consistent plunge-to-bevel transition that is totally free of facets, divots, or funkiness.

That's just my $0.02 on it. :)
 
I wasn't trying to take anything away from how you do things, you clearly make some of the best knives I have seen, trying to modify this chainsaw sharpener would simply be an interesting project, I have one that is similar and thats were I got the idea, but for now I only hollow grind, so a thought is as far as it will ever get with me ;0)
 
Do you have trouble with abrading against that filing jig - if not how do you avoid it.


and


when you go up in grits, the paper gets thinner, do you just go to the smaller radius to account for that ?
 
So, if you're hollow grinding do you use a curved block the same size (diameter, radius of curvature) as you're grinding wheel and the radius filed on the edges?
 
Sam-

No, the guide is near full hard A2. You could grind it down pretty easy on the belt grinder, but not so much with hand work. Besides that, the guide is just as much a hand hold/stabilizer as anything. What's making the most contact with the paper is the steel I'm sanding down. Once I get down to the guide, I'm done. I have 3 carbide faced guides, and those won't even be scratched by the paper... BUT, they also wipe the grit right off if/when they do make contact with it.

In theory, you would need to compensate for the thickness of the paper as you move up in grit, but in application I have never had an issue with it.

I mentioned the thickness of the paper in the video because it does have some effect on the radius. A good example, you can take a perfectly square/sharp edge and wrap paper around it, and it won't cut a perfectly square corner.



As far as hollow grinding... who does that?!? ;) LOL

Actually I do both, and for me, a hollow grind is a lot easier to nail the plunges right on the money, right off the grinder. Mostly because of the little bit of cushion you get with the contact wheel. So I don't have a method to dial in hollow ground plunges other than more practice at the grinder. For simply hand sanding the bevels on a hollow, I have some blocks I made that are just a little smaller than the contact wheels. That helps to keep the grind lines sharp/crisp, IMHO. :)
 
Not surprising that such a proficient Forger would be caught cheating!

Thanks so much, Mr. W., for yet another "simple things that really work" video- all the experience you have under your hat really adds up to some invaluable info for someone who's trying to move their craft to the next level.
 
Patrice Lemée;13555493 said:
lol Sam, Nick is a perfectionist but that is stretching it a bit don't you think?:eek:
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No, he mentions it in that video even, it's gotta change the radius at least a 1/32" maybe a 1/16"

I'm wondering which grit interval he moves to the different radius


didn't he mention that in the video ? - gotta check now.
 
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Great videos as always Nick! Much appreciation. Great attention to detail, too. Especially how you Photoshopped WHEELER off the the ricasso of the picture you took using the mirror.
 
12345678910 said:
No, he mentions it in that video even, it's gotta change the radius at least a 1/32" maybe a 1/16"

I'm wondering which grit interval he moves to the different radius
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I noticed this problem when sanding in the big-radius plunges on my integrals. I used the same radius, but built it up with 2" blue tape. (I think it even goes up to 4" or 5" wide.) Use that. You can actually measure the thickness of the sandpaper and very quickly make an adjustment on your sanding plate. I don't think it's too much of a hassle, as the very first thing a seasoned collector or judge will look at is the plunges. Just my thought on this.
 
Sorry Sam, in my mind I thought you were talking about changing radius because of the change in thickness from let's say 500 grit to 800 grit.
 
Varga- I'm not sure I understand what you said, LOL.

The photos were taken by pro knife photographer extraordinaire- Jim Cooper (sharpbycoop.com)

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Michael's tip about the tape is a good one. I haven't needed to do it with the plunge block, but I do that with my little sanding gizmos for sanding out the flutes in integral bolsters and spacers... :)
 
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