Nirvana - blade finish/corrosion spots

MaxFactor

MaxFactor

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Has anyone else noticed small spots of corrosion forming on their Nirvana blade?

It's been very humid in my area recently and have noticed tiny spots of corrosion on the blade finish after carrying it.

Anyone know of a good way to remove it without affecting the finish?
 
I just bought a couple Nirvanas and so far I haven't seen any corrosion on either one. But I admit that I've only been carrying one of them. The other is a total safe queen.

How long have you been carrying yours ?
 
20160813_000708_zpsqllkvh8t.jpg


Here's a picture of the most prevalent spots on the blade. There are two main areas. One on the flat towards the tip and one on the bevel towards the ricasso. It's quite minor but still disappointing.

I've been carrying this knife frequently, but not everyday, since I got it on July 1st.

I may finally cave and order some of that Aegis Solutions corrosion inhibitor, although, I'm somewhat skeptical of how effective it will be. I mainly would like to figure out how to take care of the spots I already have without compromising the blade finish. If it continues to get worse I may try polishing the blade.
 
MaxFactor said:
20160813_000708_zpsqllkvh8t.jpg


Here's a picture of the most prevalent spots on the blade. There are two main areas. One on the flat towards the tip and one on the bevel towards the ricasso. It's quite minor but still disappointing.

I've been carrying this knife frequently, but not everyday, since I got it on July 1st.

I may finally cave and order some of that Aegis Solutions corrosion inhibitor, although, I'm somewhat skeptical of how effective it will be. I mainly would like to figure out how to take care of the spots I already have without compromising the blade finish. If it continues to get worse I may try polishing the blade.
Click to expand...

Try a bit of gun cleaning solvent on a q-tip. Or possibly something a bit rougher like one of the blue sponges that are "none stick pan safe".

For rust prevention I use whatever I am using on my guns or mineral oil.
 
My guess is the slightly rougher blade finish is keeping moisture and contributing to the corrosion here. It is stone-washed / sand-blasted from the factory? Also the integral handle is not allowing much air flow and evaporation when the blade is closed.
 
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Brock O Lee said:
My guess is the slightly rougher blade finish is keeping moisture and contributing to the corrosion here. It is stone-washed / sand-blasted from the factory? Also the integral handle is not allowing much air flow and evaporation when the blade is closed.
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It's bead blasted which is one of the most porous surface finishes and therefore corrosion prone. I just never expected this out of S90V; granted, my experience with the steel is fairly limited.
 
MaxFactor said:
It's bead blasted which is one of the most porous surface finishes and therefore corrosion prone. I just never expected this out of S90V; granted, my experience with the steel is fairly limited.
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Every bead or sand blasted blade I've had rusted much faster than normal. Really it's to the point where I don't want to mess with that finish at all anymore. When I've seen bead blasted 154CM and S110V rust within a week of sitting in a drawer (brand new blades), that tells me what I need to know. Don't get me started on bead blasted non-stainless steels. If I wanted a blade that demanded that much attention I would go for a satin finished or polished tool steel that has much higher toughness and hardness with equivalent wear resistance.
 
I guess I never thought about the Nirvana's stonewashed finish being rust-prone. I'll have to keep an eye on that.
 
my s90 PM2 never had corrosion...until I moved to Missouri.

I use HDCi now. No complaints yet. EDCi was not enough.

I use Nevr Dull to remove corrosion. Works well.

I have been treating all my knives with HDCi right out of box, no matter what the steel. I plan on doing that with the nirvana when it comes in, as well.
 
bodog said:
Every bead or sand blasted blade I've had rusted much faster than normal. Really it's to the point where I don't want to mess with that finish at all anymore. When I've seen bead blasted 154CM and S110V rust within a week of sitting in a drawer (brand new blades), that tells me what I need to know. Don't get me started on bead blasted non-stainless steels. If I wanted a blade that demanded that much attention I would go for a satin finished or polished tool steel that has much higher toughness and hardness with equivalent wear resistance.
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Same here. Years ago when I was buying a lot of Busse the blasted one's are the only one's I had any trouble with. Other than being more susceptible to rust, the finish also marks very easily. I stayed away from them after the first few.

I love a tumbled blade, but I'll never understand why one would blast a blade.
Well, Busse and some others do it to save time and money and pass that savings along to the buyer. I would rather pay extra for a finished polished or an as ground blade any day.

Wolverine666 said:
I guess I never thought about the Nirvana's stonewashed finish being rust-prone. I'll have to keep an eye on that.
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I don't have one, but from the pics it doesn't look stonewashed. It looks to be blasted.
 
Ken44 , I agree it looks blasted. However , Spyderco (on their site) states that the Nirvana is indeed stonewashed. So who knows.

And that EDCi and HDCi treatments look cool. I've never seen those before.
 
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Wolverine666 said:
Ken44 , I agree it looks blasted. However , Spyderco (on their site) states that the Nirvana is indeed stonewashed. So who knows.

And that EDCi and HDCi treatments look cool. I've never seen those before.
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The blade has been bead blasted, and then stonewashed.
They should probably state in the catalogue.
Big difference than being only stonewashed.



.
 
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Just thinking out loud

As someone who has worked in the shot peening industry

If they are using non stainless steel shot to bead blast what can happen is little pieces of the shot can embed in the substrate getting blasted which could be the rust your seeing

If they are using stainless steel shot (which is expensive) then you shouldn't see that issue

According to Crucible S90V has 14% chromium which should lead itself to be fairly corrosion resistant. For comparison S110V is 15.25% and its claimed to me a very good stainless steel blade
 
kvanpacker said:
Just thinking out loud

As someone who has worked in the shot peening industry

If they are using non stainless steel shot to bead blast what can happen is little pieces of the shot can embed in the substrate getting blasted which could be the rust your seeing

If they are using stainless steel shot (which is expensive) then you shouldn't see that issue

According to Crucible S90V has 14% chromium which should lead itself to be fairly corrosion resistant
Click to expand...

That's a really interesting take on this problem. I'll be watching this one, and I'd recommend you contact Spyderco. This would be acceptable on a Tenacious or Byrd knife but definitely not the Nirvana...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
dkblade said:
That's a really interesting take on this problem. I'll be watching this one, and I'd recommend you contact Spyderco. This would be acceptable on a Tenacious or Byrd knife but definitely not the Nirvana...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

But if the blade is stone washer after that "should" scour the blade clean of the embedded material
 
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