Nitro lacquer

Howdy,
Listen to an old paint chemist who's formulated everything from housepaint to aircraft paint:
Nitrocellulose lacquer can give a very high gloss. It will not provide good durability against outdoor exposure.

If you are looking for a high gloss finish that be durable, for a one-part, try a marine varnish or the varnish they sell for bar tops. Paintitred's suggestion of a two-part acrylic urethane would be even more durable.
 
knarfeng said:
Howdy,
Listen to an old paint chemist who's formulated everything from housepaint to aircraft paint:
Nitrocellulose lacquer can give a very high gloss. It will not provide good durability against outdoor exposure.

If you are looking for a high gloss finish that be durable, for a one-part, try a marine varnish or the varnish they sell for bar tops. Paintitred's suggestion of a two-part acrylic urethane would be even more durable.
Click to expand...

I'm not looking so much for the gloss. I get a pretty glossy shine from linseed oil. It's just that you have to buff it with a rag every time you take it out. What I am looking for is something that will give that "3D" effect to the figure in the wood without making it look like it has a quarter inch of plastic as a top coat. The best look I have seen is French polish, but shellac may be the least durable finish on the planet when it comes to any kind of liquid getting on it. I will probably try to find a high end gun stock finishing kit like the Purdey type one that used to be out there.
 
Ypu can get an absolute "under glass" finish by using multiple coats of laquer and after about 320 grit hand sanding buff cool (very little pressure) and slow with 1400 grit plastic compound. This also works with multiple coats of super glue and considerably more durable than lacquer. I use this on my fixed blades with domestic hardwoods and it sells alot of knives
Ken
 
I've been reading this thread since it started, and haven't commented since the OP has been getting some good advice. Folks are right about nitro-cellulose lacquer being:

a) old-school, TRUE
b) not as durable as other finishes, TRUE
c) flammable, TRUE
d) best applied with spray gear, TRUE
e) etc.

The one thing I haven't seen anyone comment about is what I consider n-c lacquer's BEST quality...it's REPAIRABLITY!

I'm a custom furniture maker, and on all my high-end commisions, lacquer is my go-to finish!

Here's a shot of a piece that's getting ready to leave my shop:

DSCN8507.jpg

That's about THIRTY coats of lacquer, sprayed and sanded, then left to cure for a week or more. Once it's cured, I wet sand with 600, 800, 1000, then 1200. Then I use four grades of 3M automotive rubbing compounds, up through "Final Glaze".

Some of my clients think the end results justify the huge cost of this sort of finish. It's a LOT of work!!! :o

I also use lacquer on most of the turned pens I sell. But they're not subject to the same sort of abuse that a knife might be.

As for lacquer's applicability for knife handles, I wouldn't...unless it's for a safe queen. A deep lacquer finish WILL crack/chip. Repairing it is very simple, but why risk needing to repair it in the first place?

I've tried using CA glue as a finish, but to me the result looks too 'plastic-y', and it shows (tiny) scratches way too easily...worse than lacquer.

I've been messing around making scales for a few knives, and all I use to finish them is either Watco Danish Oil, or plain BLO (boiled linseed oil)... followed by a hand rubbed application of Renaissance Wax. The end result certainly isn't glass-like high gloss like lacquer is, but it's plenty durable, the wood grain 'pops', and any necessary repairs are a no-brainer.

Hope this helps...
- Marty -
 
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