No frills outdoor/hunting blades

Well, one reason that Mexican coins were used from California to Texas was that there were lots of them ... since those places used to be in Mexico. The silver coins were still in common use in lower California and the border states well into the 20th century (same way with Canadian coins accepted in the northern states).

Mexican coins varied a lot in silver content from as low as 30% to just above 90%, but in the 1800's, officially, most were .907% fine silver. US coins from the mid 1800's to 1964 were .900 fine silver. So, technically, there was more silver in a Mexican coin that a US coin. The problem was that the actual content of 8 reals and silver pesos varied from mint to mint and ran from 80% to 90%.

However, the biggest reason that they were used is the silversmiths, both Hispanic and Native American, were used to working with the coins as their source of silver, and the dies and punches they used fit the coins that they and their grandfathers learned on. US and English silversmiths were used to working with sterling silver sheets (92.5% silver), which was much more expensive due to manufacturing costs. Often, silver sheets were made from melting silver coins and a little extra copper to make it roll out easier. The products made were labeled "Coin Silver". Lots of silverware and pocket watch cases bear such markings. Coin silver was usually 80% to 85% silver.

I also think it is part nostalgia for the old "wild west" days and former times when Mexico and Spain ruled most of North America west of the Mississippi.
And, let's face it, an 8-real or silver peso with the Mexican eagle and snake looks a lot cooler on a cowboy than the rather ordinary US eagle.


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Well, one reason that Mexican coins were used from California to Texas was that there were lots of them ... since those places used to be in Mexico. The silver coins were still in common use in lower California and the border states well into the 20th century (same way with Canadian coins accepted in the northern states).

Mexican coins varied a lot in silver content from as low as 30% to just above 90%, but in the 1800's, officially, most were .907% fine silver. US coins from the mid 1800's to 1964 were .900 fine silver. So, technically, there was more silver in a Mexican coin that a US coin. The problem was that the actual content of 8 reals and silver pesos varied from mint to mint and ran from 80% to 90%.

However, the biggest reason that they were used is the silversmiths, both Hispanic and Native American, were used to working with the coins as their source of silver, and the dies and punches they used fit the coins that they and their grandfathers learned on. US and English silversmiths were used to working with sterling silver sheets (92.5% silver), which was much more expensive due to manufacturing costs. Often, silver sheets were made from melting silver coins and a little extra copper to make it roll out easier. The products made were labeled "Coin Silver". Lots of silverware and pocket watch cases bear such markings. Coin silver was usually 80% to 85% silver.

I also think it is part nostalgia for the old "wild west" days and former times when Mexico and Spain ruled most of North America west of the Mississippi.
And, let's face it, an 8-real or silver peso with the Mexican eagle and snake looks a lot cooler on a cowboy than the rather ordinary US eagle.


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Makes a lot of sense. A guy can buy silver dollar conchos but they are just cheap casts.
 
I give a sheet of knife use and care instructions with my hunting/fillet/kitchen knives. It explains proper use and care as well as the abuses that should not be done.

About three or four times a year I get back a blade with the tip broken off or the handle destroyed by repeated dishwasher cleaning. The owner usually is honest and says he or his wife was prying a stuck drawer open or running it through the dishwasher often.

I repair it as needed to make it usable again. When returning it, I give them a new care and use sheet with the parts about misuse and dishwashers highlighted.
That’s a good idea
 
Hi, hard to tell from the photos, but do you bevel the leading edge of the handle to where it meets the blade, or have the end of the handle 90deg to the steel to keep the cutting edge as absolutely close to the hand as possible? Carving wood I like a close cutting edge, been told hunters use that bit of blade less than wood workers. Anyway, I have found that angling the front of the handle 20 or 30deg off perpendicular to the steel makes it lots easier to clean any blood, fat, dirt or moisture from the handle/blade join.
Depends, I usually taper the handle after I test fit it to the tang. I use my knives for both personally. And most of the people I sell them to don’t know the difference. Most of these are kinda experimental right now. I’m Trying to dial things in currently
 
This is a sar knife I made this weekend. I dropped the aus temp a little and bumped the temper 25 degrees. Hit 59rc with ztuff steel and ultrex g-10. Just trying a few different things currently!
 

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This blade has a few flaws, but I’m definitely improving. It’s a full height convex grind, and .020 behind the edge! 4 3/4 inch blade!
 
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