No-glue handle options (full tang)

Boys Boys step aside. OK here ya go: Use hidden locator pins through the tang and into the back of each scale and hold the scales on with heavy duty O-rings. Be sure to cut a groove for the O-rings to nest in and grind a nail nick in each groove to remove them.

Dang I may have to make a military knife now.

Alternate method: Duck Tape
 
Bruce Bump said:
Boys Boys step aside. OK here ya go: Use hidden locator pins through the tang and into the back of each scale and hold the scales on with heavy duty O-rings. Be sure to cut a groove for the O-rings to nest in and grind a nail nick in each groove to remove them.

Dang I may have to make a military knife now.

Alternate method: Duck Tape
Click to expand...
i should have thought about the duck tape
i was over thinking things again :foot:
 
How about this....one or two spring clips on the back of each scale that will snap into a hole in the tang...Kind of like a small version of the spring clip on the disc brake pad that is on the back side of the rotor.Srings could be adjusted for tension to keep them in place till you want to pull the scale off.

Just another idea:D
Bruce
 
ok...you guys definitely have some good ideas...but I'm having a hard time trying to form a mental image. Got any drawings or photos?
 
no guard? does the tang have to be flat? I am using my laptop, so I can't scan in a drawing right now, so this description may be a little long.

let's assume a 1/8"tang and 3/8" scales just to make the math easier later on.

first, drill two 1/4" holes in the tang, then make two 1/4"round pins as long as 2/3 of each scale plus the tang thickness. for our example 1/4"+1/4"+1/8"=5/8" now, divide the scale thickness by three, eg 1/8. now cut a 1/4" wide ring into the pin 1/8" from each end of each pin. say 1/16" deep. Now, looking at the side of the pins, they might look a bit like TIE fighters. slide a pin into each of the drilled holes in the tang, and silver solder them in. you should have a "T" shaped end on each side of the tang. Now, drill or machine out two "keyholes" in each scale. each keyhole should have a 1/4"opening 1/4" deep to take the pin, and then a 1/8" wide slot 1/8" deep for the reduced section of the pin with a 1/4"wide 1/8"deep trough for the heads of the pins. if you do not have a milling machine, you might be able to carve it out with a dremmel or flex shaft machine. if you line everything up right, you should be able to put the scales to the tang, and then slide them into position. then drill thong hole and slide a roll pin in to keep them tight to the pins.

hope this made sense
Ken
 
Use a switchblade type release mechanism but instead of releasing the blade it would release the handle.:cool:
 
The Japanese did this with their swords... a pin holds the handle on...usually covered by a menuki under the wrap.

~Matthew
 
a pin holds the handle on...usually covered by a menuki under the wrap.
Click to expand...
First part is correct, but not the second. The mekugi I've seen were placed in an opening of the wrap-job so it can be easily accessed when it's time to tap it out. See the picture here for illustration.
 
Dan, I have been following this thread to see where it goes.Think about it,you want a removable handle with the necessary engineering,but don't want to even use screws?The best way to do what you want is to use socket head screws,threaded into locator studs.The idea of locator studs and O-rings in a grove has merit,also.
 
I'm ok with screws...I was just wondering if there were better screws than just your off-the-shelf-at-Lowes screws.

From what I've read here, there certainly are better options.

I'm just having a hard time understanding some of the terminology being used.

Locator stud?
socket head screw?

(I do know what an O-ring is....but how it fits in there...not so sure about)

:o
 
On the locator stud, Dan, think of the inside of a boxcutter. One side/scale has a stud that fits into a hole in the other side/scale, helping you to line the sides/scales up correctly when you go to close it/put it back together.
On the O-rings, I read it as using them around the outside of the scales - like you would a rubber band.

- Jim
 
Dan, you could use an offset hole in the tang (see pic below). As the pin is driven through the handle/tang/handle sandwich, the handle is driven tighter and tighter against the guard. In woodworking this is sometimes called a drawbore and is used to snug tenon shoulders against mating parts.

Of course, the metal of the tang won't move as much as wood. So the offset for the hole will be much smaller. In the picture, I've purposely exaggerated the amount of offset shift to show the effect.

To disassemble, simply drive the pin out of the handle.

drawbore_tang.jpg
 
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