no makers mark, it is junk?

E

evildeadedd

Joined
Mar 31, 2015
Messages
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I was out for a drive and saw a yard sale. not a lot worth buying, but he did have an axe he wanted 3 bucks for. The handle was rotted in the eye so I pulled that. it looks in pretty good shape to me, but I still have so much to learn. But the point of this thread it to ask how do I know if a head is good quality without a makers mark on it? Here are some pics to see what y'all think.
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She's got ridges! Red paint and ridges in the eye probably a TT Kelly Works sold out to a hardware store where the store's paper label was put on. Short story short, yes. It's a good axe.
 
Yeah I have a tendency to do that. I am looking for something along the lines of a GB small forest axe, knowing me I will end up with everything but. my problem is I am impatient , I need to sit back and try to wait for yard sales and the like, but I want it now. Dang microwave mentally.
 
As a side note how do you know what size handle to put on a head? like I assume you can't put a hatchet on a full size handle.
 
Depends on the handle. You can trim a full size 32" handle's kerf to fit a hatchet. Might not be pretty but you could do it. On the other hand, making a head like this fit a hatchet handle is a no go.
 
Oh yeah no way I would want to try and wield this thing on a hatchet handle. from what I have been reading 32 inches plus is what it is supposed to sit on. I asked about the hatchet because I really like the look of carpenters hatchets, just wondering how one would work on a 20ish inch handle.
 
I have a no name brand Keily Works, exactly like that one. I am going to put it on a 36" fawns foot handle. I soaked mine in vinegar for 24 hours. When I took it out, the bit had a good 1" 1/2 of hard steel showing. May not have a brand name, but it'll split wood like a damn. No name brands are what I used to learn more about the craft. They are less expensive on eBay, which is good when you are learning. I would totally put that head on a nice haft. If I could find a 32" straight handle, I would put it on, but I don't have that sort of thing easily available in my neck of the woods.
 
The lack of handles I liked lead to me learning how to make my own. It's why I have about five hafts-to-be drying (still in tree form, but sawn up) in my garage.
 
I see posts on here recommending house handle co. I just worry about buying a handle without looking at it first.
 
You can call them up and see if they have anything that might match the dimension of the eye of your axe.
 
Looks like it might be a Woodslasher from the red paint. If so and it has a reasonably thin profile, it will make an excellent all around axe on a 34" straight handle. I can understand the love of the little forest axes, but 3.5# is almost perfect once you get your skills and strength developed. If the profile is thick, it will be a great "lightweight" splitter.
 
I don't doubt the axe will perform well on a good handle, I plan on using it for the fire pit at home. The reason I waMr something around 20" is I want something to take into the woods. I don't want to lug an axe with a handle that's almost half my height.
 
For sure I could see this head being rather unwieldy. Probably going to stick it on the 32 or 34, just means I I've to keep digging for my woods axe is all.
 
Go for the middle, why not have it be 33!My go to woods axe is now that Snow and Nealley 3 1/4 lber on a 28" haft. Before that it was a 3 lber Maine Wedge pattern on a 28" haft. Good to throw on the pack and go.
 
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