- Joined
- Jan 25, 2012
- Messages
- 66
This happens everytime I use this wood. Love the look, but too many cracks! Is there a way to fix this?
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No more burl handles for me
- Thread starter Runthemall
- Start date
- Joined
- Oct 3, 2002
- Messages
- 12,297
Super glue works very well.
And / Or use better wood.
And / Or use better wood.
- Joined
- Jan 25, 2012
- Messages
- 66
This is stabilized burl. Thanks for the replies. I'm going to try the dust/superglue mixture. 👍🏻
Horsewright
Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
- Joined
- Oct 4, 2011
- Messages
- 14,140
Who is doing the stabalization? Suerglue works very well.
- Joined
- Dec 7, 2008
- Messages
- 7,187
How to do fills
It is not uncommon to need to do minor fills with stabilized wood. Especially when using burl. Different types of wood may have small voids, bark pockets, open eyes or checks (shallow hairline cracks). Some people choose to leave these unfilled calling it the natural character of that piece. But if you choose to fill them it is a fairly easy process.
Filling checks is very easy. Using thin CA glue run it into the crack and allow it to settle. Then apply a little more so the glue level is slightly above the surface of the wood. While the glue is still wet take a piece of the last used grit sandpaper and sand the area that has the checking. This mixes sanding dust with the glue to fill the check and blend with the surrounding wood. Let this dry and then sand any remaining glue from the surface of the wood. Done correctly small hairline checks will disappear.
Small voids and open eyes are also fairly simple to fill. Small ones can be filled with a couple drops of CA glue. Apply a few drops of glue into the opening. After a few minutes the surface will drop a bit as the glue soaks into the opening. Let that dry and then apply a couple more drops. Repeat until the dry glue level is equal to the surface of the wood. Sand away any dry glue on the surface of the wood.
Larger voids can require just a little bit more effort. Using epoxy mix with sanding dust from the wood and fill the void. A flat toothpick usually works well for getting this mixture down into the void. While this mixture is still wet, poke down into the void with the sharp end of the toothpick to push it down into the opening and to get rid of any air pockets. As the epoxy mix dries it will likely settle below the surface of the wood. In that case you will want to repeat this process until the dry mixture is level with the surface of the wood. Finally sand away any dry epoxy that remains on the surface of the wood.
Bark pockets are fairly common with burl. When stabilized the bark is hardened but will usually have a small open area surrounding the bark pocket. Fill the openings the same way as mentioned for larger voids. But you might want to mix the epoxy with a dark color sanding dust so the area filled blends with the bark instead of the surrounding wood. The epoxy fill also helps to secure the bark portion to the surrounding wood.
After your fills are completed you are ready to finish your wood.
It is not uncommon to need to do minor fills with stabilized wood. Especially when using burl. Different types of wood may have small voids, bark pockets, open eyes or checks (shallow hairline cracks). Some people choose to leave these unfilled calling it the natural character of that piece. But if you choose to fill them it is a fairly easy process.
Filling checks is very easy. Using thin CA glue run it into the crack and allow it to settle. Then apply a little more so the glue level is slightly above the surface of the wood. While the glue is still wet take a piece of the last used grit sandpaper and sand the area that has the checking. This mixes sanding dust with the glue to fill the check and blend with the surrounding wood. Let this dry and then sand any remaining glue from the surface of the wood. Done correctly small hairline checks will disappear.
Small voids and open eyes are also fairly simple to fill. Small ones can be filled with a couple drops of CA glue. Apply a few drops of glue into the opening. After a few minutes the surface will drop a bit as the glue soaks into the opening. Let that dry and then apply a couple more drops. Repeat until the dry glue level is equal to the surface of the wood. Sand away any dry glue on the surface of the wood.
Larger voids can require just a little bit more effort. Using epoxy mix with sanding dust from the wood and fill the void. A flat toothpick usually works well for getting this mixture down into the void. While this mixture is still wet, poke down into the void with the sharp end of the toothpick to push it down into the opening and to get rid of any air pockets. As the epoxy mix dries it will likely settle below the surface of the wood. In that case you will want to repeat this process until the dry mixture is level with the surface of the wood. Finally sand away any dry epoxy that remains on the surface of the wood.
Bark pockets are fairly common with burl. When stabilized the bark is hardened but will usually have a small open area surrounding the bark pocket. Fill the openings the same way as mentioned for larger voids. But you might want to mix the epoxy with a dark color sanding dust so the area filled blends with the bark instead of the surrounding wood. The epoxy fill also helps to secure the bark portion to the surrounding wood.
After your fills are completed you are ready to finish your wood.
- Joined
- Jun 11, 2006
- Messages
- 8,651
Are these cracks in the wood when you start or do thy show up after the knife is finished? Burl naturally has thoes voids in it. It's just how it is done times. I fill with super glue and call it good. If thy are showing up after the knife is finished or float to finished then I suspect the stablizing is not good and the wood is shrinking or swelling.
- Joined
- Dec 7, 2008
- Messages
- 7,187
I can not tell for sure from the photo but it looks like redwood burl.
It is very common for old growth burl to have small checks that are not filled by stabilizing.
The important thing is to use thin CA glue.
I run a drop into the checks and let it sit for a few minutes.
Then another drop of thin ca and sand. This usually will make them disappear.
Even if there are no voids or checks visible on a burl block there are likely to be some inside regardless of who did the stabilizing.
After you have filled a couple you see it is an easy fix and part of the procedures needed when working with wood handle material.
When left unfilled the handle seems unfinished to me but that is just my opinion.
It is very common for old growth burl to have small checks that are not filled by stabilizing.
The important thing is to use thin CA glue.
I run a drop into the checks and let it sit for a few minutes.
Then another drop of thin ca and sand. This usually will make them disappear.
Even if there are no voids or checks visible on a burl block there are likely to be some inside regardless of who did the stabilizing.
After you have filled a couple you see it is an easy fix and part of the procedures needed when working with wood handle material.
When left unfilled the handle seems unfinished to me but that is just my opinion.