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I do have some MAF cleaner as well
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Non chlorinated brake cleaner?
- Thread starter SuzukiGS750EZ
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I'm glad this came up, as I was actually wondering about this myself.
Now, I apologize in advance if I'm committing some sort of major faux pas here... I took a look at the main page and the description, and didn't see anything about posting/not posting about Byrd knives in the Spyderco forum, so I'll go ahead and post.
I recently (yesterday) picked up a Byrd Meadowlark 2 Rescue knife. I'd planned on getting a SS handled PE Meadowlark 2, but the store didn't have any in stock, and I'd planned on getting a SE knife anyway.
Now, I originally wanted the SS Meadowlark as I'm planning on using it as a utility knife... I do a lot of work with cars and heavy equipment, and until now I've simply carried a utility knife with replaceable blades in my toolbox. However, I noticed that the SS handled versions look to be welded into one solid piece, whereas the FRN and G10 versions use screws to hold the handle together. Since getting the Rescue (only available in FRN, it seems), I've realized that the polymer handle is pretty solid, and I do like the possibility of stripping the knife to clean out the (minimal) inner workings. Given the likelihood that I'll end up getting various solvents and chemicals on the knife, does anyone know how well the FRN or G10 versions hold up to various solvents (other than brake cleaner, as already discussed)? I've done a quick search, but not much comes up (other than "try to avoid chemicals if possible, but minimal exposure might be OK").
If it's a no-go for solvents and the polymers, I'll pick up a SS version. Otherwise, I do like the ability to strip the knife down on the polymer handled versions... I would love to see the SS versions use scales instead of a one-piece handle (hint hint).
Oh, and hi everyone!
Now, I apologize in advance if I'm committing some sort of major faux pas here... I took a look at the main page and the description, and didn't see anything about posting/not posting about Byrd knives in the Spyderco forum, so I'll go ahead and post.
I recently (yesterday) picked up a Byrd Meadowlark 2 Rescue knife. I'd planned on getting a SS handled PE Meadowlark 2, but the store didn't have any in stock, and I'd planned on getting a SE knife anyway.
Now, I originally wanted the SS Meadowlark as I'm planning on using it as a utility knife... I do a lot of work with cars and heavy equipment, and until now I've simply carried a utility knife with replaceable blades in my toolbox. However, I noticed that the SS handled versions look to be welded into one solid piece, whereas the FRN and G10 versions use screws to hold the handle together. Since getting the Rescue (only available in FRN, it seems), I've realized that the polymer handle is pretty solid, and I do like the possibility of stripping the knife to clean out the (minimal) inner workings. Given the likelihood that I'll end up getting various solvents and chemicals on the knife, does anyone know how well the FRN or G10 versions hold up to various solvents (other than brake cleaner, as already discussed)? I've done a quick search, but not much comes up (other than "try to avoid chemicals if possible, but minimal exposure might be OK").
If it's a no-go for solvents and the polymers, I'll pick up a SS version. Otherwise, I do like the ability to strip the knife down on the polymer handled versions... I would love to see the SS versions use scales instead of a one-piece handle (hint hint).
Oh, and hi everyone!
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Fluids should be fine, ATF, oil etc. engine cleaner would more than likely be a no no, MAF as suggested may be fine, ether would probably be another bad one. But I'm sure some deposits on your hands wouldn't cause issues.
Right on, I appreciate the insight.
I actually hadn't thought of deposits on my hands... I wear nitrile gloves as much as possible while working on anything, but I often use a knife for cutting lines, scraping dirt out from around nuts/bolts, trimming plastics, etc. I suppose my bigger concern would be having to cut off a line while it's on the car and getting oil, coolant, ATF, gasoline, or brake fluid on the knife.
I actually don't use many cleaners... My kit pretty much consists of isopropanol, Kleen-Flo Honey Goo, and (occasionally) WD-40. I'm pretty sure they're all safe to use with polymers. However, I just found that my local Spyderco AD has the SS CE Meadowlark 2 in stock for $20... I may just pick that as a pure toolbox knife and use the Rescue for EDC.
And, a little more on-topic: I haven't tried it yet, but I've got some MG Chemicals contact cleaner that seems promising. It's used for cleaning out switches and the like in electronics, and has silicone in it, so it might work well for lubricating/protecting the knife without destroying the handle. I may dab a bit onto the FRN and report back with the findings.
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I'm sure those fluid would all be fine. I've never had an issue with brake fluid on plastics. Paint on the other hand...
Alright, I said I'd try it, so I did...
I gave the Meadowlark a quick clean today. I wiped down the liners and blade with a little isopropanol on a shop cloth, then gave everything a quick wipe with the MG Chemicals contact cleaner with silicone. I tweaked the tension on the lock and blade pivots, then sprayed some more of the cleaner inside the handle (towards the lock pivot and the blade), plus a bit on the blade itself, then left it outside in the sun for a minute to go wash my hands. By the time I came back outside, the cleaner was already dried.
Based on how quickly it dried, I'm pretty sure it's OK for the handle. I suspect the liners will benefit from it as well... Since it's supposed to be a cleaner for electrical connections, I'm pretty sure it'll prevent oxidation, but it's not oily/greasy and won't leak out or get all over your hands.
However, I managed to get some on the handle as well, and once it dried it gave the handle a slippery feel which I do not recall being there before... I wiped off the outside of the handle with isopropanol to try to get rid of the slick feeling, and that seemed to solve the problem.
The other issue was that, once it dried, there was absolutely no lubricating properties whatsoever. The blade kept getting caught while opening, and I ended up using a little oil on the pivots to get the smooth feel back.
So, final verdict on MG Chemicals: Possibly good for protecting liners and such after washing with detergent and water, but the slick feeling on the handle (probably the silicone) and the lack of lubrication make it a give-and-take.
I gave the Meadowlark a quick clean today. I wiped down the liners and blade with a little isopropanol on a shop cloth, then gave everything a quick wipe with the MG Chemicals contact cleaner with silicone. I tweaked the tension on the lock and blade pivots, then sprayed some more of the cleaner inside the handle (towards the lock pivot and the blade), plus a bit on the blade itself, then left it outside in the sun for a minute to go wash my hands. By the time I came back outside, the cleaner was already dried.
Based on how quickly it dried, I'm pretty sure it's OK for the handle. I suspect the liners will benefit from it as well... Since it's supposed to be a cleaner for electrical connections, I'm pretty sure it'll prevent oxidation, but it's not oily/greasy and won't leak out or get all over your hands.
However, I managed to get some on the handle as well, and once it dried it gave the handle a slippery feel which I do not recall being there before... I wiped off the outside of the handle with isopropanol to try to get rid of the slick feeling, and that seemed to solve the problem.
The other issue was that, once it dried, there was absolutely no lubricating properties whatsoever. The blade kept getting caught while opening, and I ended up using a little oil on the pivots to get the smooth feel back.
So, final verdict on MG Chemicals: Possibly good for protecting liners and such after washing with detergent and water, but the slick feeling on the handle (probably the silicone) and the lack of lubrication make it a give-and-take.
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Just curious where the compressed vs canned air point comes from... My understanding was that compressed air (from a tank) tends to have a lot of moisture in it, unless you're running a dryer on the line, and that canned air has a lower moisture content. If that were the case, wouldn't using canned air vs compressed be better for the knife, as you're not blowing it out with moist air?
I could be wrong, so if you've got other info on the topic then I'm curious to hear.
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I sometimes run a dryer on my compressor, but even if you don't, unless you're in some extreme moisture conditions, some moisture in air at 100psi isn't going to leave any moisture in the knife. My point about the canned air is that the pressure is so low that you're not going to get anything like the same kind of clean-out that you'd get with higher pressure air.
Right on, that makes sense...
I guess the compressed air bit is somewhat climate dependent too... Where I live, the average humidity is around 75-80%, which seems high enough to warrant a dryer for most things. I haven't installed one on my compressor yet, but there's regularly a lot of condensation in the bottom of the tank before I run it (once or twice a week).
But, you're absolutely right... 100 PSI out of a blow gun on a compressor is a fair bit more than the 70 PSI average out of a can.