Non Metalic bolsters

divewize · Oct 20, 2003

hello again.

Are any of you using micarta or some other material in place of ss or brass bolsters? I know they aren't as sturdy as metal but I can see using alternative materials as they would look very nice on blades that dont need the metal bolters but needs some fluffing up?

if yes what materials are sutible Im sure micarta and real hard woods like iron wood and ????????

many thanks again "John"

dhannon · Oct 20, 2003

John,

I've used non-metallics for bolsters on some models. I basically use what looks good (considering I've already limited to the tougher materials). A good balance of contrast and weight. As they say, variety is the spice of life.... I've used black walnut bolsters with maple handle and made several blades without bolsters. I don't believe toughness of the material is too much of an issue as most materials we all use are quite solid. Take a look at many of the folding blades out there and you'll see many variations of materials for bolsters and handles.

Having said this, I'd note that wood, micarta, graphite... bolsters would be suitable, but I may not use these materials for a guard.

Dan

Nathan House · Oct 20, 2003

Carbon fiber makes a great looking bolster.I am in the middle of making a knife that is going to have a carbin fiber bolster on it.
I find carbon fiber dose not add weight and makes for a nice looking set up if done correctly.A good tip to getting the most out of it,is once you get it rough shaped,wet sand it with wet dry sand paper,it really brings of the pattern in it, and do not buff it

itrade · Oct 20, 2003

If you think about it, knives without bolsters are wood or micarta all the way up. No real difference. I bevel mine in and use hidden pins.

On some knives it is very attractive (I think).

Here's one I made with redwood - I have about 6 more knives like this to make:

http://knives.mylamb.com/kitchen.htm

Steve

divewize · Oct 20, 2003

THANKS FOR THE REPLY gents.

STEVE, That cooking knife is right on ! I was looking to do somthing similar. Ill be using wine color dymondwood (bullet proof) and wanted to spruce things up a bit, hmm.

is that wood or is it paper micarta as the bolster??

hope things are well , btw the last project came out nice with that canadian belt design thanks for the info. I ended up using cocobolo dymondwood, brass bolsters and mosaic pins what the heck its a user!!

I got impaitient and didnt want to wait for my buddy to cut me a chunk of king wood off the 6' 4"x4" he has, I may use the king wood for the next project.

btw on that chef knife how far down did you pin the bolster?

thanks "John"

etp777 · Oct 20, 2003

This may be a stupid question, but when you're beveling bolsters like this,is their a certain direction to bevel them, and are we just talking about a 45 deg cut on them, rather than regular 90 degree, or what. Sorry. A picture would be worth a thousand words I'm sure (hint hint

if I ever finish knife I'm working on now, was thinking of one with black linen bolsters and red heart scales, so this topic was very timely.

Dan Gray · Oct 20, 2003

I use 30 deg you might be able to see it here.

I over lap the bolster over the Scales for added strength.

opps I think that the wrong picture

itrade · Oct 20, 2003

Same as Graymaker

30 degrees and the bolster goes over the scale. The first one I did was the wrong way. As you slide the scale in place the bolster should force the scale on to the tang - not lift if off!

Divewize, it's redwood and paper micarta.

Steve

Steve Hayden · Oct 20, 2003

I made some a year or so ago with black buffalo horn bolsters. I really liked the way it looked, but they didn't seem to turn people on very much. I have been thinking about trying some more out and will some day. I think they looked best with reddish or light colored wood.

Terry_Dodson · Oct 20, 2003

itrade i like the way that looks, could you post a couple pics of how you put them together like that? Do you glue them on or what holds them on securely?

itrade · Oct 21, 2003

Terry,

I'll try and do the picture thing on the next set.

Let me try and describe it, until then. (This is just what works for me - if you find it helpful, great. If I'm full of beans, sorry.)

I drill 3 holes in the tang where the bolster goes - same as for peening.

Cut a strip of micarta enough for both bolsters - about 1 by 3".

Set the table on the disk grinder for 30 degrees and cut the bevel.

Then I cut the micarta in half for both bolsters. Two pieces, same size, same bevel.

Super glue one of them in place and drill thru the tang and about 1/8" into the micarta.

Now carefully glue the other bolster in place - matching up the bevels so they are perfectly aligned - top and bottom edges.

Pop the drilled bolster off and drill the second bolster. Then pop it off.

Make short pins and put the 2 bolsters together (without the tang). Now you can cut, shape polish both bolsters together, making a perfect match.

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Attaching:

Using an end mill I make a few 'pockets' in the micarta. Also use the dremel to scar up the tang where the bolsters go.

Attach the bolsters with acra-glas. Clamp down HARD. The pockets will hold the epoxy. The pins add shear strength. The squeeze makes a tight fit.

Clean the excess epoxy (here's the big lesson ...)Twice! First get off all you can. Check later on because some more will eeck out as it settles.

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Hope the helps!?

Steve

PS I found a paper towel with windex is fine for getting most of the excess off. Break cleaner on a paper towel is wonderful for removing what's left.

FWIW - here's a set of 416 bolsters where I used the same, hidden pin process:

Wild Rose · Oct 21, 2003

Here are a couple of pics of a non-standard/non-metallic bolster I did a while back - might give ya'll some ideas. The bolster is a piece of mule deer antler and the grip is deer bone courtesy of Ray Richard. The knot is braided rawhide and although it looks a bit strange it actually gives a very positive/secure grip.