(noob question)knife recomendation

[Junglegend]

So, im new here, and I know this is probably a dumb question, but im just getting into knives and any feedback would be appreciated.

so I've been looking around for a new SHTF knife. im having a little trouble deciding, and any recommendations or input would be appreciated. Im looking for something in the 5 1/2 to 6 1/2 blade size. I want a blade that would be relatively low maintenance and would be durable enough for hard use. philosophy of use for this knife would be SERE and urban/wilderness survival. so ive been looking around, and I cant decide between an esee 6, a blackjack halo attack 13, or a swamp/scrapyard knife with a similar blade size.

so my next question is; I live in an area that gets a lot of rain and moisture would be an issue. I have heard that 1095 steel has some corrosion problems, but do you guys find that is actually a big issue? or is it something that can be delt with in the field? this is one reason why im leaning towards the blackjack, because of the a2 steel which has more corrosion resistance, or do you think the higher rust resistance would be offset with the leather sheath the halo attack comes with? also do you think the halo has a strong blade design that could stand up to light batoning and such? and what about sr101 steel? does it have enough chromium content to be noticeably more corrosion resistant than 1095? Thanks

 

[Firestrike]

I live in Coastal Oregon (salt water, and lots o rain) and have used KaBars and Tops for quite awhile now without rust issues, alder does seem to pose issues with quickly rusting your blade but nothing a few swipes of a stone can't fix. I generally keep an oiled rag in a ziplock and wipe down the blade after usage. Can't say much for SR101 yet as I am still waiting on my first Swamp Rat, Infi has done very well here in performance compared to 1095.

 

[Junglegend]

sweet, a fellow Oregonian! im located around the Portland area. your area sees a fair share more moisture than here, and im starting to think that a 1095 blade would pose less problems than people make a fuss about. thanks for the input

 

[K.O.D.]

Without proper care, pretty much any steel will rust. If you take care of it, 1095 will work fine.

 

[22-rimfire]

I like the Blackjack 125 a lot. It is a fine knife. I have one.

I had some others posted, and then realized it was in the wrong thread and deleted them.

 

[Junglegend]

I like the Blackjack 125 a lot. It is a fine knife. I have one.

I had some others posted, and then realized it was in the wrong thread and deleted them.

How do you sharpen that convex edge? ive had zero experience with this, but I assume you just free hand it on a stone regardless?

 

[spydercobenchmadekai]

I would recommend either Swamp Rat/Scrap Yard or Becker. I have had no problems with rust, even on my un-coated 1095 blades.

Review of a new Yard arrival: http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/s...rd-Mud-Mutt-an-awesome-5-inch-bushcraft-blade

 

[22-rimfire]

How do you sharpen that convex edge? ive had zero experience with this, but I assume you just free hand it on a stone regardless?

Carefully. Actually I have the most trouble freehand sharpening a convex edge as I am generally used to a flat ground edge. I would suggest you look in the sharpening forum as I don't want to give you bad advice.

But stroping is the way to sharpen a convex edge.

Freehand, I focus on the actual edge with DMT bench stones mostly. I kind of sharpen at a less acute angle and then increase for the actual edge. It's hard to explain and honestly, I probably do it incorrectly considering the amount of time it takes me with convex edges.

I also have a BlackJack 1-7.... that thing is sleek and scary. Haven't figured a good use for it yet...

 

[Silvanus]

How do you sharpen that convex edge? ive had zero experience with this, but I assume you just free hand it on a stone regardless?

My personal system consists of a mousepad, sandpaper, and a strop. Basically, you run the blade on your sharpening media from spine to edge with a little rotating motion to follow the curve of the blade. It's actually pretty easy to maintain a convex edge IMO, but I've never let mine get really dull. More often than not, just the strop with compound will maintain your edge.

 

[Aleous]

I suggest you look into the Fallkniven A1, 6 inch blade, convex edge, made of stainless laminated vg10 steel, amazing knife, totally worth the price.

 

[link2derek]

+1 on the Becker idea (a BK-7 would fit your intended use well).
You are fairly new to blades, so start with something less pricey and learn as you go.

Later, after you have formed more ideas about what you really need/want, you can then upgrade to something more expensive.

Just my 2 cents..

 

[cpurcell]

I say a BK16. (I started with a BK2, love it! Got a BK9, realized it's a bit big for EDC where I work, then got a BK16 and we've been running ever since!)
I normally carry a candiru, a blackjack 155, my Case medium congress and my BK16 (all in various locations on my person or in my EDC bag).
C

 

[Yo Mama]

Kabar Heavy Bowie
Becker BK 9
Kabar Kukri
Ontario RD6

Any of these, and an Eswing Camp Axe will take care of you well.

 

[Bmurray]

A2 is a decent compromise between a stainless and a carbon blade. The Backjack classic 125 is made of A2, and is one of my favorite most comfortable knives in my collection.

 

[cricketdave]

Start with Becker move up to ESEE, then Scrapyard, Swamprat and the Busse. Any of the coated knives will be fine with minimal care. Mostly just depends on comfort in your hand and just how much you want to spend. Once you get to the higher price brackets there are a ton of really talented custom makers that could make just about whatever you want.

 

[amg137]

I'm a big fan of Becker and KaBar fixed blades, especially as survival/SHTF knives. Ease of sharpening and toughness is critical in that environment. That said, I have definitely had significant issues with corrosion on 1095 CV steel. I live in a relatively arid environment (southern California) and have had rust form on my KaBars while they've just been sitting on display in my collection, despite being oiled on a biweekly basis. If rust is going to bother you, you might be better off looking at the stainless Falknivens.

 

[Firestrike]

sweet, a fellow Oregonian! im located around the Portland area. your area sees a fair share more moisture than here, and im starting to think that a 1095 blade would pose less problems than people make a fuss about. thanks for the input

No problem, If you go for the Becker/KaBar then you can hit up the Beckerhead convention in Eugene in late April, seems there is a few around our parts that go out for some fun times.

Like I said though Alder will destroy your blade if you let it sit to long, and it doesn't add much weight to the pack or pocket to keep an oiled rag in a zip-lock, Olive Oil or other cooking oil is my preference as it is also food safe.

Let me know what you end up with.

 

[Junglegend]

Thanks for all the input everyone :thumbup: after reading all these great responses im starting to get a better idea of what im looking for.

Ive held a few Beckers in the past, but they've never really appealed to me, and I prefer the feel/design of the esses. My last purchase a few years back was an esee 4, that I love. Im just looking for something a tad longer that would have more capability. The blackjack looks like a GREAT knife, but I think it would be a little hard to sharpen in a SHTF scenario (needing a strop and all) so I think that's out of the picture (for now ) so I think ive narrowed it down to an Esee 6 or a sykco 511 (maby RMD?)

 

[Junglegend]

(Post Deleted)

Sorry redo

 

[Junglegend]

No problem, If you go for the Becker/KaBar then you can hit up the Beckerhead convention in Eugene in late April, seems there is a few around our parts that go out for some fun times.

Like I said though Alder will destroy your blade if you let it sit to long, and it doesn't add much weight to the pack or pocket to keep an oiled rag in a zip-lock, Olive Oil or other cooking oil is my preference as it is also food safe.

Let me know what you end up with.

+ on the oiled rag idea.

That's interesting that you've had that experience with alder. I've noticed that is molds and rots way faster than other similar woods, I wonder if this has any correlation?