nordic knife, made without electricity

kevin -the professor

kevin -the professor

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Dec 18, 2008
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Hello Everyone,
This is the first knife out of my new workshop. The only electricity I used on this one was in the drilling of the fittings. Everything else was hand tools and muscle power.

The blade is 1075, with a vivid hamon. There is a slight medial ridge, with the spine and top bevel left as-forged, though I did wire brush the scale off and pickle with vinegar.

The blade is 6", the handle is 4.5".
Textured brass
bubinga with tung oil finish for handle.

This knife is very thin (especially the handle). It would be very good for use in an outdoor/camping/hiking setting. Of course, it is also just beautiful.

$175 plus shipping. pm me if you are interested.

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Thanks for looking,
Kevin
 
Professor, you do not mention tempering or Rc. Do you know the Rc range ?
And, do the primary bevels go to zero ? or is there a secondary edge bevel ?
Most Nordic knives are rather stout blades intended for 'bushcraft'. Would this be a good description for this knife blade ?
Is the edge extremely sharp ?
I can see it is a Beauty and i would like to know a bit about expected performance.
thanks Prof, kj
 
All good questions.
Tempering - 360F, 375F, 385F
RC (approx. because I have hardness chisels from Matt Parkinson but not a Rockwell tester) 59-61 on edge. 54 on the spine, except the very back of the spine (top of spine) so that there is a small strip of hardening. This keeps the knife from bending, and makes sure that a significant portion is spring tempered.

The blade grind - flat until a couple of mm from the cutting edge, then convex to edge. No secondary bevel, but not a true zero grind either. That is because this knife is bigger than puukko, but smaller than a leukku. Leukku usually have a secondary bevel, puukkos sometimes do, but most often don't.

The knives from the Nordic countries have something in common with those from Japan. That is, it is assumed that the person who buys the knife will sharpen it and modify it to meet their needs. So, it is usually assumed that a secondary bevel will be added by those who need it. It is easier to add a secondary bevel than to take one away.

That is why I do things the way I do - no secondary bevel but a sturdy grind. The knife will arrive exceptionally sharp, the edge and a sturdy geometry. It will be better for bushcraft than carving with this geometry.

thanks for the good questions,
kc
 
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