Norton Black Ice & Rhynowet Redline are not comparable.

HSC /// said:
I’ll send you some 3m microfinishing film roll (which is what i mostly use) samples if u care to add to your write up comparison. I have Rhynowet as well but prefer the film roll which has a 5 mil backing.

As far as hardened steel, big big difference between high alloy steels and simple steels In terms of sanding and scratch removal.
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So you like the film better than rhinowet? Where do you get it from? I suppose I could even get the belts and just cut those up, wonder how that would work!
 
razor-edge-knives said:
So you like the film better than rhinowet? Where do you get it from? I suppose I could even get the belts and just cut those up, wonder how that would work!
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I like the film backed rolls because it has a lot of versatility and uses. So I prefer them for hand sanding of blades as well as rounding the spine and choils.

I use Rhynowet as well for such things as flattening scales.
 
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AVigil said:
Why is hand sanding taking you hours?
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Adam, I'm assuming it's not supposed to take this long, but i can't seem to figure out what i'm doing wrong, and how to speed it up. I spent 2 hours yesterday ~~ doing one side to 220. I started on one side to move up to 320, and didn't have anything left in the tank (so to speak). I think my issues is i create a lot of deep highs and lows when grinding (i'm very new) and must not be taking them out as i go up my belt grits. I come off the belt at a 600 or 800 trizact finish. How many passes do you all do before you climb to the next grit, i feel like i get a uniform finish - then do an extra pass or two, just to ensure.

The knives i was sanding had 60 grit scratches on the flats from surface grinding it (should have hit those up the grits on the grinder) and that added some time for sure, but it seems the bevel took just as long...
 
Coming off the belt grinder at 220 grit a 52100 (or most simple hardened steels) chefs knife can be hand sanded in 20 minutes to 400 or 600

A high alloy steel like z wear takes an hour per side and more.
 
DustinY said:
Adam, I'm assuming it's not supposed to take this long, but i can't seem to figure out what i'm doing wrong, and how to speed it up. I spent 2 hours yesterday ~~ doing one side to 220. I started on one side to move up to 320, and didn't have anything left in the tank (so to speak). I think my issues is i create a lot of deep highs and lows when grinding (i'm very new) and must not be taking them out as i go up my belt grits. I come off the belt at a 600 or 800 trizact finish. How many passes do you all do before you climb to the next grit, i feel like i get a uniform finish - then do an extra pass or two, just to ensure.

The knives i was sanding had 60 grit scratches on the flats from surface grinding it (should have hit those up the grits on the grinder) and that added some time for sure, but it seems the bevel took just as long...
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You should try norax ceramic, they very reduced my sanding time. Also dykem while grinding will help you spot the scratches. I almost exclusively work with 440C and CPM154, takes me about 2h total (hand sanding) to get a perfect satin at 600 grit on a 8" cpm154, because of this technique . But nothing will save you if you do a mirror finish xD another trick I do, if you are patient, grind to almost finish your bevel with 50 grit, then switch to norax x45 (about 220 grit), if there are scratches left, you won't miss them. The norax belt are a game changing for me, they last and last and last and last, and the finish they leave is wow, I mean will they ever die?
 
DustinY said:
How many passes do you all do before you climb to the next grit,
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I go up in grit when all the scratches are smooth and even and equal depth.

What I do is grind about most the blade with 50 grit. Move up to 100 grit and slow down the grinder and fine tune the grind and be sure all 50 grit scratches are gone.

When only 100 grit scratches remain, I will move to 220 grit and repeat.

Then 400 grit, repeat

Then 400 grit cork with green polish and remove all previous scratches and I mean all of them. With cork and polish it will gently remove the 400 scratches, if you find deep scratches move back down in grit to 220 and then work you way back up until all deep scratches have been removed.

Then I go to 800 cork with green polish and smooth out the surface, keeping an eye out for any scratches that got away.

Once at 800 I go to hand sanding back down to 600.

As mentioned using DyeChem will help to show you what you are missing.
 
T
HSC /// said:
I like the film backed rolls because it has a lot of versatility and uses. So I prefer them for hand sanding of blades as well as rounding the spine and choils.

I use Rhynowet as well for such things as flattening scales.
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Thanks, I ordered a roll from ebay of the 30 micron (600 grit) to try, thanks for the pointer on this!
 
Just out of curiosity, how do these compare to 3M wet or dry you get at the automotive store?
 
The 3m stuff is good, I’ve bought some before due to poor planning on my part and ran out of abrasives. They worked very well but I paid alooooot more. Definitely not worth the extra money imo.
 
Ive gone through a few hundred sheets of silicon carbide paper in the 150 to 280 grit ranges in the last couple years. I started with black ice, tried the the indasa rhyno and found it to be better. LAtely I tried Fuji star and I feel it is atleast as good if not better than the rhyno. And its cheaper. I also run into problems with grit, stray grit I think that falls off the paper and is sometimes forced into a sanded groove and creates a deeper scratch than it should for the grit. I also wonder what the uniformity is of the grit. My vote is going to the Fuji Star SC paper for quickest and most consistent results.

Ive tried going higher grits with my belt grinder but I find that a 2x72 with a flat platen is just not efficient for grinding 8-10 inch long chef knives that are 2" wide at the heel. It is Just too easy to catch the edge of platen . I mean im also still using my home made kmg clone that does not run all that true, im sure that is playing a factor as well. Not to mention how much more difficult it is to hold a blade that size and that smooth up to the platen without slipping.
 
well I got the 3m microfinishing film roll in the other day... I can see how this would be REALLY handy (if it works well) for hand sanding... just unroll a bit, cut it off and use it on the sanding block. and yeah, I had an extra contact wheel I stuck in the 'arbor hole" that fit perfectly.

i-XdzSqHS-X2.jpg
 
razor-edge-knives said:
well I got the 3m microfinishing film roll in the other day... I can see how this would be REALLY handy (if it works well) for hand sanding... just unroll a bit, cut it off and use it on the sanding block. and yeah, I had an extra contact wheel I stuck in the 'arbor hole" that fit perfectly.

i-XdzSqHS-X2.jpg
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yes, that's how I do it, also try cutting lengthwise into strips for rounding and crowning...
 
DustinY said:
I have been desperately scrounging for a used one, but think it's time to just build new...
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but they are so cheap.....:) a disc grinder is one of the best value items in a knifemaker shop.
$150 for the 3 ph motor, $100 for the disc, $40 for plugs to wire it up to your existing VFD.
 
HSC /// said:
but they are so cheap.....:) a disc grinder is one of the best value items in a knifemaker shop.
$150 for the 3 ph motor, $100 for the disc, $40 for plugs to wire it up to your existing VFD.
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I've heard it has to be the same motor that is currently alreadyh ooked up to the VFd to work.
 
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