Norton crystolon

Single heel to tip edge leading strokes. Scrubbing would obviously be faster but I'm not that great at it atm.

Should give it a try. I initially thought it'd be more difficult, but have found the opposite to be true. A scrubbing motion keeps the bevels in constant contact, instead of stroke, lift, replace, stroke, lift, replace, etc, and that has helped me keep the angle much more consistent. In terms of grinding speed, it has likely cut rebevelling times down to 1/2-1/4 of the single-stroke-at-a-time grinding, on the same-grit stones (such as 2 hours reduced to 30 minutes). Watch most any of Jason's videos for the technique; he's got it down pat, and his is the method I've aspired to emulate. :thumbup:


David
 
Agreed ^. From the first time I watched Heavy's video on this technique I could see the benefits you name. I've been using it since. It makes a huge difference. DM
 
I initially formed this opinion on stones that didn't come with a pre-load of oil or boiled. I always shied away from oil because I felt it was too messy. I also noticed over time my stones would slowly degrade in performance - this being used with soapy water or dry. Lapping with loose grit would restore them and then a slow decline. Hmmm. tried it with oil and low and behold, the stone surface looked and felt smoother and more uniform after use, and my ability to cleanly nip the burr without a chase improved - better abrasive potential at lower pressure = no glazing, sharper abrasives and for me a sharper edge off the same surface. When I used water based materials I could always tell where the wear patterns were - used with oil the entire surface looks and feels the same after use.

This effect really kicks in on my SiC stones, but is apparent on my AlumOx as well. I use enough oil that the stone has a film on top. If it dries out in use I'll add another few drops to keep the junk suspended unless I'm down to the final passes. If I'm still grinding, there's still oil on the surface. On longer jobs I'll add some oil, agitate with fingertip to suspend all the junk, wipe with rag, re-apply and keep going. Overall I find the oil to create less mess thana lot of water. I also use a relatively short scrubbing pass, so the oil tends to stay put. If I were using long sweeping unidirectional passes, the oil would be squeegied off a lot faster, so some of this must play a role in perceptions.

I boiled the oil out of my first India stone and used with soapy water as was my habit at the time - I also boiled the oil out of my Crystalon stone when I first got it. For a while, after I started "experimenting" with oil, I was bouncing back and forth between soapy water (no need to boil the old oil out if there's soap in the mix) and oil. Noticed the thing almost immediately became discolored. Bought another one and used it with oil without boiling the pre-lube and the surface is always like new and no discoloring = no loading.

I can and have used my SiC stones without oil, but never by choice. I used to bring a small Norton SiC puck when camping and just use with water - works fine, but if I'm around home I'll use it with oil whenever possible. In my opinion, there's a reason all these large mfgs recommend and sell honing oil for use with their vitreous stones, and none sell soapy water additive or rubber blocks/brushes, etc for use with their stones, it isn't because they bank a lot of $ selling small cans of oil.

Again, it works either way but for me there's no doubt which works better.
Funny, I noticed the opposite as you lol. I quit using oil on my india and arkansas stones because it just hung on to the metal and my india (which i always used oil on from the get go) started clogging and grinding ultra slow, wiping it with a rag just added rag fibers into the mess, scrubbed it off with soapy water and a tooth brush and it's been like new. Ever since then I always just sharpen dry and then scrub it with soap and water when I'm done.
Should give it a try. I initially thought it'd be more difficult, but have found the opposite to be true. A scrubbing motion keeps the bevels in constant contact, instead of stroke, lift, replace, stroke, lift, replace, etc, and that has helped me keep the angle much more consistent. In terms of grinding speed, it has likely cut rebevelling times down to 1/2-1/4 of the single-stroke-at-a-time grinding, on the same-grit stones (such as 2 hours reduced to 30 minutes). Watch most any of Jason's videos for the technique; he's got it down pat, and his is the method I've aspired to emulate. :thumbup:


David

I'll definitely take a look at jason's videos.
 
anyone know what the grit equivalent is for a Norton Crystolon Fine FJB8 bench stone is?
I'm asking what "grit" is the stone?
 
Norton says the Fine Crystolon is 45 micron. They equate this to just over P320 (so maybe P340?). Also, they say it is just under CAMI 280, so maybe CAMI 260?

I feel comfortable saying it's "around 320 grit". 45 micron would be a more exact more easily comparable number.

Brian.
 
Norton says the Fine Crystolon is 45 micron. They equate this to just over P320 (so maybe P340?). Also, they say it is just under CAMI 280, so maybe CAMI 260?

I feel comfortable saying it's "around 320 grit". 45 micron would be a more exact more easily comparable number.

Brian.

thanks, I should have mentioned, on the receipt from the distributor it says - 280 grit.
May I ask where you found the Norton info? I spent quite a bit of time searching for that before I posted here :-)
 
I got it from a Norton Catalog I downloaded a while back. I just went looking and found they seem to have similar catalogs available for download still:

http://www.nortonabrasives.com/en-us/catalogs

The last one seems to be the one you would want.

It's also very much worth checking out the Grand Unified Grit Chart. It's really an amazing reference for sharpening abrasives. It has given me a little bit of a sense of how the different grit scales relate and where various abrasives stand on those scales, and measured in microns:

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/856708-The-Grand-Unified-Grit-Chart

Brian.
 
Should give it a try. I initially thought it'd be more difficult, but have found the opposite to be true. A scrubbing motion keeps the bevels in constant contact, instead of stroke, lift, replace, stroke, lift, replace, etc, and that has helped me keep the angle much more consistent. In terms of grinding speed, it has likely cut rebevelling times down to 1/2-1/4 of the single-stroke-at-a-time grinding, on the same-grit stones (such as 2 hours reduced to 30 minutes). Watch most any of Jason's videos for the technique; he's got it down pat, and his is the method I've aspired to emulate. :thumbup:


David

How do I find these videos. I am always trying to improve my sharpening skills and would really appreciate any help that these videos will give.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
How do I find these videos. I am always trying to improve my sharpening skills and would really appreciate any help that these videos will give.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Here ya go,

[video=youtube;XgOXvtJDm5E]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XgOXvtJDm5E[/video]
 
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