Not enough love for the Gayle Bradley 2

gonebad395

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Just ordered mine it will be here on June 7th cannot wait. How are you guys grinding the lock access to make closing it smoother. Not that I'm going to do it right off the bat but if I need to I'd like to know how it was done.
 
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abbazaba

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Oct 30, 2015
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It's really not an issue IMO, especially with the GB2... Just push the meat of your finger down in there and move the lock bar to the side. It's really not bad at all, and makes the whole thing feel more secure than having a lot of exposed access.
 
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Just ordered mine it will be here on June 7th cannot wait. How are you guys grinding the lock access to make closing it smoother. Not that I'm going to do it right off the bat but if I need to I'd like to know how it was done.

gonebad395 gonebad395 I sent you a PM on this subject. Short answer is, "belt sander".
 
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I had the thumb choil opened up a little to make the lock more accessible. It has become my favorite Spyderco and it is fun to play with after doing the mod.
 
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I had the thumb choil opened up a little to make the lock more accessible. It has become my favorite Spyderco and it is fun to play with after doing the mod.

I'm not following... can you put up a picture or two?
 

GB940Rookie

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Outstanding BigKurt. Is that redwood burl? Makes me not want to post pics of mine anymore....................
 

GB940Rookie

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UkAlb6l.jpg


That didn't last long :D
 

BD_01

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Ok. You guys are killing me. I will definately be checking one of these out next time I'm at a blade shop...which will be a while (none nearby :()

OP says it slices better than a PM2....for reals?
It looks hollow ground from the pics. Is that so?

Edit: I just checked. Yes, hollow. 4.4 oz. This might be hard to resist.
 
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I had both and ended up liking the 1 more which ineventually sold and regretted. I liked the shorter length, thicker liners, and 50/50 choil. The. Lace length just get too long for me.
 

Freedom Pullo

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The size & grind on the GB2 makes it feel a lot like a budget friendly CRK Umnumzaan and the M4 is ground VERY thin behind the edge. The action is also Slyz smooth or better. I have a lot of knives and it's the only one that I have liked enough to buy a spare of (not counting sprints).
I have a REK reground GB1 but the longer, slimmer size & thinner liners make it a great EDC.
 

GB940Rookie

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The size & grind on the GB2 makes it feel a lot like a budget friendly CRK Umnumzaan and the M4 is ground VERY thin behind the edge. The action is also Slyz smooth or better. I have a lot of knives and it's the only one that I have liked enough to buy a spare of (not counting sprints).
I have a REK reground GB1 but the longer, slimmer size & thinner liners make it a great EDC.
It is comparable in size to the large Reeve folders.
F8oDymN.jpg

Pic belongs to skywalker
 

KBA

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TRfromMT TRfromMT Ive been tempted to do this myself as well. I look forward to seeing how you go about it. Nice grain character to that Koa wood. :thumbsup:
 
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First mistake - but managed to salvage it...
The front standoff hole was about 1/3 of a hole diameter off of where it should have been. I could only get the back two standoffs installed and the front one was a no-go. This is because I was eyeballing something I thought I could get close (using the SS liner as my drilling template). I missed on finding the centers of the holes using the liner alone.

Then it occurred to me to use the standoff as a drill bushing, which got things all nice and concentric. The standoff makes an excellent hole-centering tool for a smaller pilot drill bit that clears the inside of the threads.

I managed to save things (good thing - that is a $30 piece of wood I'm "practicing" on!). I was able to pivot the scale down, keeping the front pivot hole. This isn't the prettiest part of the scale, but it will still look pretty good, I think. Anway, after being stumped for a bit and not willing to give up, I came up with a solution on how to accurately place the holes and how to save the blank, and I am moving forward again.

Bear in mind, I make a lot of scales for fixed blade knives. I am an engineer, so I kind of geek out on figuring out how to hold close tolerances in a medium that does not lend itself to this exactly. I am also a 3rd generation woodworker and have a little experience. This is my hobby and my passion, so I hope it is OK that I have taken over the GB2 thread for a little while to share what I love doing.

20170606_213234.jpg 20170606_213134_001.jpg 20170606_215211.jpg 20170606_215153.jpg
 
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gonebad395

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May 19, 2015
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I was just gifted this knife from the wife and kids as a early Father's Day present "I ordered it but was told to so we got the right one lol"and it's a hell of a knife. I've read a lot about the lock being tuff I don't think so but to each their own. Since I've came home from work I've been messing with this knife and it's so smooth and fit up is awesome. This is a knife if you don't own I would seriously think about buying for the price it's on par with some of the 500$ knives we see on the forums without a doubt. Sal and gayle along with the whole spyderco crew this is a huge home run. I can't wait to get more pocket time with this knife.

 

gonebad395

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May 19, 2015
Messages
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First mistake - but managed to salvage it...
The front standoff hole was about 1/3 of a hole diameter off of where it should have been. I could only get the back two standoffs installed and the front one was a no-go. This is because I was eyeballing something I thought I could get close (using the SS liner as my drilling template). I missed on finding the centers of the holes using the liner alone.

Then it occurred to me to use the standoff as a drill bushing, which got things all nice and concentric. The standoff makes an excellent hole-centering tool for a smaller pilot drill bit that clears the inside of the threads.

I managed to save things (good thing - that is a $30 piece of wood I'm "practicing" on!). I was able to pivot the scale down, keeping the front pivot hole. This isn't the prettiest part of the scale, but it will still look pretty good, I think. Anway, after being stumped for a bit and not willing to give up, I came up with a solution on how to accurately place the holes and how to save the blank, and I am moving forward again.

Bear in mind, I make a lot of scales for fixed blade knives. I am an engineer, so I kind of geek out on figuring out how to hold close tolerances in a medium that does not lend itself to this exactly. I am also a 3rd generation woodworker and have a little experience. This is my hobby and my passion, so I hope it is OK that I have taken over the GB2 thread for a little while to share what I love doing.

View attachment 717347 View attachment 717348 View attachment 717350 View attachment 717349

Can't wait to see how this turns out man
 
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Jan 4, 2016
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I got the scales machined and sanded to the edge of the liners. I decided to not sand the edges past the liners like the CF scales and see if I like the feel any better. I can always go more later. I still have to cut the lock bar relief on the inside of the right side. Then a bit of sanding and shaping...

20170609_054045.jpg
 
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