Not Happy

Kamive said:
Being ex Military SF - I know how to look after kit.
that has been coated with WD40
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This does not compute- if you know how to take care of knives then you know NOT to use WD40. If you didn't know before, you do know now. WD40 is about the worst oil-related product for rust protection.

Get some good mineral oil and some fine steel wool and you can restore the knife to some extent, then put a better product on it for protection.
 
RevDevil said:
WD40 evaporates pretty quick, it's mostly made of kerosene. A better solution would be using Tuf Cloth or Fluid Film. Even carnuba car wax/Ren Wax is better than WD40. Water Displacer 40 has it's place for cleaning things, but as a lubricant, it's horrible.
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WD40 is not a rust inhibitor as has been said, so if you need to protect your blade you need to put some oil on it mineral oil, even 3 in 1 oil would do a better job and finally never store a blade in a sheath for any extended period.

As far as the CS goes rust usually isn't covered under warranty, I'd clean the blade oil it and use it, that's probably find be the best you'll get.
 
I have some older CS knives made of the old Carbon V steel, which is very prone to rusting if neglected. I have found vaseline/petroleum jelly to be unbeatable for protecting edges on coated blades and Birchwood Casey Barricade spray-type rust-preventative to be perfect for long-term storage of satin (uncoated) blades. Just what works for me.
 
It is obvious to me that leaving it in the leather sheath was the culprit. The chemicals in the tanning of the leather probably attacked his knife and caused the rusting. It was not a defective blade in my opinion. (key words my opinion) The defect was in leaving it on the mantel without checking on it often, and depending on the WD40 to do things it was not designed to do. As they say on TV, sorry for your loss. It is not the fault of the MFG or the Seller. Just my hard earned $.02 worth.

Blessings,

Omar
 
For one 5160 will rust if you look at it wrong. It is a carbon steel that is not stainless. It rusts. Even stainless will rust. It will as the name implies, stain less.

Good on you for being military. But that doesn't mean you instantly know how to care for every piece of metal, as your rusty knife shows.

You said you cleaned it. If you didn't remove every bit of rust you basically planted the seeds of rust when you planted it in the sheath. WD40 is a water displacer that will leave a very fine film of mineral oil. If it is a leather sheath the leather will absorb what little oil there is almost immediately. It will dry up even if not in leather. It is not a corrosion inhibitor as mentioned. Especially if there was some rust or rusty oil on the blade.

I doubt anyone is going to do anything for the knife. But if you are going to use it and there isn't deep pitting then it isn't the end of the world. Clean the rust off. Metal polish and elbow grease will do it. If you don't care about the original finish some extra fine steel wool will make it easier. After that you might want to look into putting a patina on it. It will darken the blade and you can make it fairly uniform or give it a pattern. It gives it character and makes it yours. More importantly, it helps prevent rust. But it doesn't stop it from happening and still needs maintenance. Read up about caring for carbon steel and use the knife and use this as a learning experience.
 
Cheers mate, it is a shame the Cutting Edge Knives did not provide this info when they sold it to me ....
 
I am Ex Australian Army. One thing for sure is,
Real SF dont talk about SF!! Period. Even if they were SF or are SF, Its the mind set & type of blokes they are!!

So i think you were a cook in the army & use to cheap SS issued knives. ;) :p
 
I prefer my knives to look a little "broken in"...well except for maybe one or two safe queens...so if it was me I'd be getting out the Inox spray, the steel wool and the sandpaper and seeing what I could do to bring it back. Unless the rust has really pitted the blade you shouldn't have a problem. If it looks like it's something you can't fix yourself you can always ask a professional knifemaker to look at it for you; it shouldn't cost much at all. I would however be wary of services offered by some chain stores in Australia.

As for maintenance, if you're spending $300 on a knife it's probably worthwhile researching the most effective ways of preventing rust in the future. The other forum-goers commenting here have been kind enough to give you more than enough options ;) My personal favourite for most of my knives is Inox - it sprays on like WD40 but is non-toxic and seems to be more effective for longer. I am sure there are better things on the market (and I certainly trust the informed opinions around us here) but I have not had any issues with it so far - and there is a food grade version which is good too.

I am wondering if your bamboo sheath might be storing moisture. Does anyone here have any knowledge about whether this is possible?
 
Kamive said:
Cheers mate, it is a shame the Cutting Edge Knives did not provide this info when they sold it to me ....
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Perhaps they assumed that if you're buying a $300 knife that you actually know what you're buying and how to properly maintain it. Regardless, it's not the vendor's fault, nor is it their responsibility three months after you purchased from them. Admittedly, I don't know what laws, if any, there are in Australia regarding vendors' responsibilities or returns/exchanges, but holding Cutting Edge responsible is completely absurd. It's like griping to a grocery store that your 3 month old loaf of bread has molded significantly.

Now, I understand your disappointment and frustration; I'd be pissed too if something I spent so much money on was suddenly ruined. But frankly, this is all on you. If I, for example, were to be spending a large amount of money on something like a jet ski, or a lathe, or a firearm, I'd do as much due-diligence as possible researching upkeep and maintenance. I'm not going to simply assume that some product will get the job done. I'd want to read the recommendations of people with experience, as well as finding out what not to do. A couple of quick google searches about keeping a knife/sword free from rust would have given you many recommendations of using products like mineral oil, Tuf-Glide, 3-in-one, and an assortment of other lubes/protectants. And many warnings against using WD-40. I mean, if you're SF like you say, would you use WD-40 on your Steyr AUG?
 
Kamive said:
from the WD40 website:

http://www.wd40.com.au/wd40/index.php

"WD-40 protects metal from rust and corrosion"
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And Budweiser's a "...fine beer" it says so on the label, ya can't believe advertising hype, WD40 will displace water and inhibit rust, for a day or two, it's not meant for long term storage of HC Steel blades.

I've been a mechanic/machinist/millwright for over 40 years, I've used everything out there to protect and store a variety of rustable metals, car parts, tools, including mills, drills and a lot of other HC steel cutting tools which are nearly identical in composition to what they make knives out of.

You basically either have to coat it with a long term hard clear coat or some thing easier to remove like an oil based protectant. Cosmoline(sp) which I've seen wiped off military knives and guns 60 years later with some solvent and the metal was the same as it was when they stored it.

Now the most important thing about long term storage is prep, usually this involves cleaning and thorough drying before applying, if you seal/protect the blade with finger prints, (which contains corrosive oils and acid from your body) then you have essentially sealed the problem under the supposed solution.

Lastly, scabbards, sheaths, what ever you call them and no matter what they're made of are only for carrying, transporting of your knife and to protect the sharpened edge and your fingers but should never be used for long term storage as it traps moisture and depending what is made of could either outgas or contain harmful chemicals which would damage the finish on your knife if left on it for a long time.

As to the knife being replaced/repaired, rust is not a defect and if minor without pitting is just aesthetic and in no way impacts on the performance of your knife.
 
camoninja said:
One would think a vetran (SF) guy would know how to maintain his equipment.
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j man said:
I am Ex Australian Army. One thing for sure is,
Real SF dont talk about SF!! Period. Even if they were SF or are SF, Its the mind set & type of blokes they are!!

So i think you were a cook in the army & use to cheap SS issued knives. ;) :p
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Please stay on topic. That means discussing the issue with the knife and not the poster.

Thanks

Jason
 
I guess this is why I like AUS-8 [my Kershaw Deer hunter] as I've always kept it stored in the leather sheathe [about 25 years] which it came with and it has never shown any rust {there is a patina on the brass bolsters}. Considering about 11 1/2 of those years it was on my sailboat in a salt air environment, I can state some stainless are really rust free.
 
YOU NEVER WANT TO STORE KNIFE IN A SHEATH FOR ANY EXTENDED PERIOD OF TIME. ITS NOBODys FAULT BUT YOUTUBE BROTHER
 
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