Not so long ago or far away.A sharpening thread

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May 18, 1999
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I got too thinking about the sharpening questions that we periodically get and that we generally refer the new & newer forumites too the search feature which has a wealth of information.

On reflection about all the sharpening methods and such I tend to forget the khukuri is
not just a knife style that is odd to the world _outside_ of it's borders of use,But is also _odd_ in it's manner of hardening.

We are used to knives that even though they may be differentially hardened have a hard edge the full length of the blade and point.
The khukuri with it's blade starting out dead soft from the bolster to a progressively harder edge gradually becoming very hard at about 58 to 62 Rockwell C long the "sweet spot" and back to a bit softer about 52 Rc at the point.
This makes for a unique blade that is incredibly tough and hard that can maintain an exceptional edge all along the length of it's blade under very _hard_ use under conditions from the field to hardwood forest!!

The people that use the khukuri tend to be very poor and need a knife that is going to do just what the khukuri does so well.They are not going to be fileing and stoneing thier bkades away!
I know that most,if not all of us has read Cliff Stamps Reviews on different blades and the torture he puts the knives through.Most of us wouldn't even consider doing our pretty knives that way.
I imagine that the use the people who are so familiar with the khukuri,being raised up with one in thier hands is even beyond what Cliff puts the knives through sometimes.

With all that said think about it for a moment and realize what you would have to do under the conditions the Nepali people live under or in some of the survival threads we have here.
Yes you need to keep your khukuri very sharp in order for it to do it's work,but you also have to make it last.
I think I can safely bet that under those conditions that we are going to learn to use the khukuri in such a way as to maintain that edge with the Least Amount Of Steel Removal!!

Long ago and in places not so far away our ancestors used all sorts of iron implements with steel edges forged onto them.
Good Steel was precious and sometimes hard to come by!
Take a scythe for instance.
The edge was maintained much the same way the khukuri is.One difference is that the steel along the edge was not filed or honed off if it became dinged or nicked up badly.The scythe was layed on an anvil or rock if need be and the steel was carefully pounded back into shape.Sometimes a scythe was even sharpened in this manner.
By laying it's edge on an anvil anyone that had experience with using the blade could take a hammer and tap tap an edge onto it.This edge could shave you!
I imagine that at one time the original edge may have been put on this way to save the precious steel.

One of the reasons I got to thinking about all this is what Uncle Bill has stated at different times.
Qoute,paraphrase:"It isn't usually to far back to the house where a file and stone for sharpening are kept and if a khukuri becomes dull enough that it can't be sharpened in the field,it is taken back to the house and fixed."Unquote.

Using the scythe as an example shows that steel doesn'thave to be that hard to perform exceptionally well.However it has to be tough.
Cutting harder and harder materials means that the steel must be harder in order not to deform
Another good modern day example is the Ontario version of the Bagwell Bowie Knives.
It is stated in the information about these knives that they are unusually soft for a knife of it's size.The reason being is that they are very nice "Fighting" knives and they are designed to cut clothing and flesh.
Hitting a bone hard with one would probably ding it pretty good.The important thing is that the knife Is Not Going to Break!!
The article or other information I read about them states that they are Not good knives for people who are wanting a "combat" knife as they are too soft to stand up to that kind of abuse.

I have learned to use steels,the chakma,hones And sandpaper in different ways to keep my knives as sharp as I need or want them without fileing or honing thier lives away.
I have learned a lot of it right here in this forum,some of it over the last 50 some years of having a very profound Love of knives and other edged tools.

I know that it would take some time to use up a khukuri's good ege,but remember those 150 year old khukuris still in use have had thier edges reshaped as needed and rehardened over that time span.
The knives are "Used" up Not "Honed" up.

It does take some time and a lot of practice to get where you can "steel" an edge on the khkuri due in part to the hard "sweet spot." Once you have that part sharp with a hone or whatever then it becomes a matter of maintaing that edge.
Sometimes using the steel or chakma it makes the edge "feel rough" in difference to the smooth,slick feel a hone brings.
That "rough" edge can slice paper like it wasn't there.
Watch a butcher sometime and you will see them "steeling" a blade fairly often.
They can go quite some time between sharpening on a hone just by keeping the edge aligned properly.
I used too hone for the pure joy of running something along that already sharp edge.I have quit that now and use a steel or chakma instead.
Sometimes a chakma may not be as hard as it needs to be and in that case the smooth spine of a hard knife can be used in it's place.I can see a Huge difference when I do this sometimes!
Use different pressures and techniques until you figure out what's best and what works for you.

All your knives will thank you by lasting a lot longer.:O

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>>>>---¥vsa---->®

If you mix milk of magnesia with vodka and orange juice do you get a phillips screwdriver?

Khukuri FAQ


 
Yvsa,
As usual, I have learned important lessons from one of your posts. I hadn't really even given much thought to how much steel I was removing, when it wasn't really necessary. I realize it would take a long time to wear down my khuks, but I do plan on having them a long time, and so I appreciate the advice. I want to thank you and all the other blade veterans on HI forum for sharing all your knowledge with us: its like going to a open lecture with a room full of knife experts and having them all to talk to!
 
Let's hope that our knives and our lives will end from being worn out instead of rusted out.
 
:
I certainly agree with that Rusty!!

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>>>>---¥vsa---->®

If you mix milk of magnesia with vodka and orange juice do you get a phillips screwdriver?

Khukuri FAQ


 
Pakcik Bill.
This few simple Qs crossed in my mind!
  1. Is Village Khuk having a zone hardened blade or full hardened blade?
  2. What type of hardening treatment given to Gorkha Military Khuk?
  3. How about traditional khuk - is it having a zone hardened blade or full hardened blade?[/list=a]The reason behind my Qs is that I guess the type of blade hardening will somehow efect the way how to use the blade and the sharpening technique as well. Please do correct me if I'm wrong!

    Then, this stupid Q crossed in my mind! Since HI Khuk blades are zone hardened, are HI Khuk suitable for FIELD WORKS ONLY or for FIGHTING PURPOSE ONLY or for BOTH PURPOSES?

    NEPAL HO!
 
Excellent explanation of an important point Yvsa. Reworking the edge can drastically reduce the amount of material that needs to be removed. This is definately something that needs to be added to the FAQ.

-Cliff
 
Yvsa's excellent post has already been included verbatum. (Since I have a standing permission from him to include his material.)

Someday I'll have to organize that stuff better. For now perhaps it should be called the khukuri shoebox, wherin all sorts of virtual 3x5 cards with notes of interest are jumbled together.
 
:
Thanks everyone! You all Honor me yet again!

Howard did you run it through a spell checker before you posted it there? I didn't realize how many mistakes I had in the spelling until I reread it.
smile.gif


Mohd I think Edutsi Wili is telling you that the khukuris are good for all the tasks we may throw at them.

I certainly agree with you on the part about killing!
I would hate to have to use any kind of force that draws blood from anyone,But after long reflection many years ago I decided that I would do that and in such a way that there would be only me left standing if at all possible.
That's a decision that is best thought out long in advance of even the possibility of such a thing happening.If you wait until it happens then a person may hesitate and cause great harm to his family or other innocent people.Those that force us to act in such a manner deserve no mercy and should be taken care of as quickly and humanely as possible in my opinion.

------------------
>>>>---¥vsa---->®

If you mix milk of magnesia with vodka and orange juice do you get a phillips screwdriver?

Khukuri FAQ


 
Like Yvsa said, using of a steel is learned, and sometimes slowly. That is why I was so surprized at the results when using an old carbon steel round shanked screwdriver. With a large handle and 1/4 or 3/8th *round* shank, I guess I could really bear down with what seemed was little effort. Whoops, I now had a burr alllllllll down the one side. Then I flipped it over and got a burr down the other. At this point I should have gotten the chakma out.

Yvsa - a few questions: you know more on files, are they case hardened? Do they make them one sided with say, extra fine mill, and just flat on the other? Could you take a file with two sides and dress the teeth off with a wheel or belt sander ( without losing the hardness ) or surface grinder? What do you think of those little carbide V's like the bucksharp?
 
Ooops, double trouble.

[This message has been edited by Rusty (edited 01-18-2000).]
 
Ysva,

You are a man of wisdom.

Rusty, I don't know too much about files but they are case hardened. They are made from tool steel and have consistent hardness.

Case hardening is used for low carbon steels which normally can not be hardened. A case hardening compound rich in carbon is packed around the part and heated to carbunize the surface. After the surface is carbunized it is hardened. The core is left soft (low carbon) and the surface is hardened (sufficient carbon).

I wonder how this affects steel the kami works on? The charcoal fire is rich in carbon. Is the steel really 5160 after the kami is done working it or something different?

Will

[This message has been edited by Will Kwan (edited 01-18-2000).]
 
Will, a Chicago lab analyzed four or five of our blades and they showed the content of 5160 but had a higher silicon content than normal for 5160. I read the test results but did not get a copy. A customer who was visiting Uncle Bill's Cantina here in Reno had the tests conducted and brought the results. He said he would send me copies but never did and he has now disappeared.

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Uncle Bill
Himalayan Imports Website
Khukuri FAQ

 
:
Thaks Will.

Rusty as Will said the files are made from hardened tool steel.
George Tichbourne(sp?) says that files are about 58 Rc.
I think they vary a bit and some are a bit harder.
I know that a new really good brand file will just barely cut my custom O-1 tool steel knife I made back in 1974 and it's
60 Rc.
I have taken files and ground them on a surface grinder With Coolant to get Every trace of the marks off in order to grind a knife from them.If a person is really careful not to get any part of one too hot they make some excellent blades.

They would make a good smooth steel if you can get it slick enough.Using wet or dry silicone Carbide paper it is doable.
The screwdriver is a great idea and I used a big phillips I have for a rough steel as it is
not too smooth.It worked well for what I was doing.

As for those cardide pin sharpening tools I have never used one.I do have one of those double round cutters that is used on ktchen knives like the
"Old Hickory" brands that mom used to use.
They will get a knife super sharp, but with a loss of edge holding because it pulls a real small hollow grind in the edge and it's a very rough edge too.

Since you say you are inexperienced at sharpening you might have an advantage and not even realize it.The old timers used to use a lot of convex edges because of the wear the old hones had.It is sort of natural to pull a convex edge on a knife or an axe just because it is so difficult to get a perfectly flat bevel on both sides of the blade,let alone on one side.
I still think a convex edge (which the khukuri's have.) is the best overall edge anyway,because it is so strong!
I find it easier to sharpen a khuk really sharp than it is my conventional knives.The trick with the convex edge is to get it thin enough.Most people forget to take off material behind the edge,making the edge too thick for easy slicing.
My Salyan will slice paper easily because of the very wide bevel on the edge and it's being thin on that convex edge.
I would say that it is hair poppin sharp,but I don't have the courage to try and shave any part of my anatomy with it.(VBESEG)
Is your Salyan one of your sharpest khuk's?



------------------
>>>>---¥vsa---->®

If you mix milk of magnesia with vodka and orange juice do you get a phillips screwdriver?

Khukuri FAQ


 
Yvsa, Kumar sent four 20 inch Kobras in the last couple of shipments that he made from files. He does not grind the file smooth for some reason so the blades appear to be hatchmarked -- sort of.

He has not tackled the 30 inch King Kobra yet and I am wondering why. I wonder if he is waiting for an oversize file to wear out!?

------------------
Uncle Bill
Himalayan Imports Website
Khukuri FAQ

 
Hey forumites, I have a question. I was looking over some old threads about sharpening and I read one about stroping. Where can you buy strops and the abrasives that you use them with?

Christian
 
I have three questions. First, what are some brand names for the ceramic rods? Are they similar to using a butchers steel? Also, to go along with Christains quetion. Can stropping be used as the only form of sharpening done to the khuk? Chris, my grandfather always used an old belt loaded with the sharpining compound. Thanks.

- D

[This message has been edited by Vampire Hunter D (edited 01-20-2000).]
 
Burnishing, has become a lost art, do to the pace of society in our country. Wood is a prime project for bunishing, instead of sanding. It will flatten a grain, and bees wax can be used a a medium for a very durable finish. As to stones, Diamond Rods, etc. They are all subject to wear, and loading. What was once a medium stone can cut much like a fine stone if not clean. This in turn, can change the depth of the micro serrations on any blade.Some hold their tools to be precious objects, to be used for only cetain jobs, and never abused. The Japanese when cutting bamboo, will use as many as 4 different pieces to comlete the task.While in the Military I had two issue machetes shorted from 18" to 14" to suit my needs. A CB that had a minor social disease.I trade my services for a pair of shortened blades, with 1/2" of the edge flame hardened to the tip and back a bit. These were quenched in a brine solution, and used as quenched.I put 13 months on these knives and they held up very well. I can see one from where I sit. These blades only had been sharpened with a fine file and finished with and old gray stone.When you have a dull knife, in certain situations, the only way to get a sharp blade is to learn the art. I also picked up some interesting local pieces from Cambodia, VN and Laos in 1959 1960.

Floyd
 
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