Not sure if I want the custom 112 over the production 112.

Does that mean the 112 Ecolite is like my Subaru Outback? Cuz I just ordered a paperstone green one (knife, not Outback) in a moment of retail weakness. I guess we could always take these similes too far.

Zieg
 
FYI, the sheath in the pic above is not from Buck. It's a kit sheath from a Michael's craft store. It fits the SOG Paratool and the 112 perfectly. I don't really like the black leather sheaths for 110s and 112s, I wanted something I could take off the belt without having to undress (this one has a clip, not a loop), and I prefer brown. I do like the horizontal carry, though, so even though it was black nylon, I alternated between using the Paratool sheath for that multitool and my 112 until I wore holes in it and the Velcro died. Now I'll be able to add another sheath to my options when my 112 Ecolite arrives.

Cards94, when your knife arrives, you're not going to be able to put it down. You're going to be looking for things to cut, pulling it out and putting it on the table with an authoritative "thunk," polishing the brass 'till it looks darn near chrome, and wanting to brag about it. You're also going to love how the 112 feels and looks like you could use it to set traps, skin game, start fires, carve a child's toy, slice vegetables and meat, rescue a horse tangled in its reins, and open hundreds of bales of hay. I know because this is what I've used mine for for almost 20 years.

Zieg
 
The Zieg said:
use it to....rescue a horse tangled in its reins, and open hundreds of bales of hay. I know because this is what I've used mine for for almost 20 years.
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Hey! Me too! It's been my trail riding/barn work knife since I can remember. :)

IMG_2550-1.jpg
 
All this bragging on the classic 112 is spot on! All of mine in my opinion are solid knives. The plum red EL has just a hint of rocking play up and down(real hard to feel) but I actually prefer it over my green one. My Ranger has just a hint of side play in the closed position only. When you open it you should here the lock KA-WACK super solid lock up! I'm dying to try the custom; hope they don't stop offering them anytime soon!
 
Buckman & sharp dude, You are both correct on the dots, they were not intended as a date system the dots indicate an engineering change in the knife design, blade pivot bearing for one. BUT due to when the change was made they are used as a dating reference by the buck crowd. Around 1986 Buck started using a date stamp on most knives.
Card sorry about hijacking your post. IMO the older 112's are the real deal, any 112 is a keeper and user, I would buy a standard 112 to use even a used one then IF it fits the bill move on to a custom shop.
 
375dave said:
Buckman & sharp dude, You are both correct on the dots, they were not intended as a date system the dots indicate an engineering change in the knife design, blade pivot bearing for one. BUT due to when the change was made they are used as a dating reference by the buck crowd. Around 1986 Buck started using a date stamp on most knives.
Card sorry about hijacking your post. IMO the older 112's are the real deal, any 112 is a keeper and user, I would buy a standard 112 to use even a used one then IF it fits the bill move on to a custom shop.
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I don't mind the most recent new buck 112. I like the 420hc plus I prefer a new knife so the possibility of finding a 112 from the 70's era with a blade centered and no play all around is slim and none.
 
Beauty and value are in the eye of the beholder.

Blade rub bothers me. So does vertical play. Blade center means nothing to me, so long as there's no rub. Different eyes. Different priorities.

On the older ones... I prefer 420HC for EDC use but there is something about the sheen of the brushed 440C on the older knives. Also, something about a Buck from the heyday.

The script 500 in my pocket right now isn't perfectly centered. Not a problem (for me).
 
375dave said:
Buckman & sharp dude, You are both correct on the dots, they were not intended as a date system the dots indicate an engineering change in the knife design, blade pivot bearing for one. BUT due to when the change was made they are used as a dating reference by the buck crowd. Around 1986 Buck started using a date stamp on most knives.
Card sorry about hijacking your post. IMO the older 112's are the real deal, any 112 is a keeper and user, I would buy a standard 112 to use even a used one then IF it fits the bill move on to a custom shop.
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well buckman needed that special high intensity training
marks before 1986 are not a date code
you can use them to more or less date a knife which is what most the buck group do but
a date code changes for each year made which did not happen tell 1986
Buck seen that the collectors were using the different tang stamps to date the knives and of
course Case uses their dot system to date their knives which buck did not want to copy..

oh 375 Dave won't you take a look and see if you know the answer to the question I asked in the new date code thread :)
 
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cards94 said:
Not much out there on that bay site.
This one online store said they would hand pick a production 112 for me with centering etc... Just comparing the production to the custom. If I don't get the s30v blade, does it make sense to get the custom?
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You're kidding, right? You can spend all day looking at 112s.

As for condition: there's plenty that have seen little use. I just bought a Centennial still in the tin for under $30 (happens to be the year my son was born.)

Yes, go buy a new one.

If they'd just put nickel bolsters on the CS, I'd be all over one.
 
It's always been known as a dating system in every book I've ever read. That's why they specify certain dates. Not arguing with u Sharp. That's a stupid comment.
 
jamestap said:
You're kidding, right? You can spend all day looking at 112s.

As for condition: there's plenty that have seen little use. I just bought a Centennial still in the tin for under $30 (happens to be the year my son was born.)

Yes, go buy a new one.

If they'd just put nickel bolsters on the CS, I'd be all over one.
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Yes I put in a few more parameters for the search and it's turning up many. It's a taking a chance though buying on ebay. I've sent a few emails to the sellers concerning the 112's that I saw but I want tight lockup all around with no blade play in any direction and blade centered. I'm awaiting their response.
 
I picked up this nickel silver 1993
today for $20 ! There not easy to find. I think it's ebony wood to.

0fe9743373c9fdb4079738c2f26704cd.jpg
 
I remember when I got my 110 at wallyworld about the time of that 112(great find), they sold both the 110 and n/s 112 side be side at that time!
 
buckman110 said:
I picked up this nickel silver 1993
today for $20 ! There not easy to find. I think it's ebony wood to.

0fe9743373c9fdb4079738c2f26704cd.jpg
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Ah man, you reek!

Out of curiosity, where do you find knives like that? Obviously not on an auction site. Last one I saw there went north of a C-note.
 
James, I actually found that knife in a pawn shop in muddy pond Tennessee. I constantly search them along with the local flea market.

Dwhat do u mean by "went north of a c note?
 
buckman110 said:
James, I actually found that knife in a pawn shop in muddy pond Tennessee. I constantly search them along with the local flea market.

Dwhat do u mean by "went north of a c note?
Click to expand...

Over $100. C-note = $100 bill. Short for "Century note"

Sawbuck = $10 bill, but I'm not sure where it came from.

Guess I'm showing my age:-(
 
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