Not the last cut

Joined
Aug 27, 2004
Messages
2,522
I had an old gentleman give me a couple of pieces of old rusty sawmill blade. He laughed and said, "Son, I'm afraid that steel has made its last cut".

He was "almost" right, but after a little forging, grinding, and vinegar treatment, I think it has a few cuts left in it. What do you think?

Forged Sawmil Steel (L-6 ?)
Stainless Guard w/Nickel Silver buttcap
OAL - 11 1/4"
Blade Tip to Guard - 6 3/4"

Thanks for looking.......... Robert

sawsteelR.jpg

sawsteelL.jpg
 
wow man thats great if you have time you should make him one. it would be cool to see the look on his face, that a rea lookin knife came out of his "cut out" saw steel :>
 
Great looking knife. I like the handles as well. And the Stainless Guard w/Nickel Silver buttcap is outstanding work. Thanks for posting this Knife Photo Roosko. Have a safe day in the knife shop.

Barkes :thumbup:
When I leave this world I would like to be known by the one who make his knives from start to finish.
http://my.hsonline.net/wizard/knifeshop.htm
1.812.526.6390
 
Hey Big Boy, Messing with old saw steel can become very addictive. How thick was the steel? I'm finding with the steel that is 3/16" or less starting with a pre form works the best for me. Another great looking knife and just think using that old saw steel you may have saved another tree..... :D
 
Turning "scrap" into usable and, shall I say "very cool" knives, just rocks. That's what I'm talkin about right there:cool: :thumbup: ;) :thumbup:
 
Roosko, I really like the "spine line" on this knife. Just right!!!

Very nice looking blade sir!
 
Hmm my post turned to vapor.

Any how as i said in the lost post has he seen it yet? Cause that is one very nice looking blade. And what does the vinigar do exactly?
 
Very nice, love the rough weathered look of the blade and the stag color is awsome! What'd you use for die?:thumbup:
 
Hey Big Boy, Messing with old saw steel can become very addictive. How thick was the steel? I'm finding with the steel that is 3/16" or less starting with a pre form works the best for me. Another great looking knife and just think using that old saw steel you may have saved another tree..... :D
Big-un, that steel was around 3/16. You are right about starting with a pre form. If I had done that to begin with, both sides would look more alike. I'll do that next time.

Any how as i said in the lost post has he seen it yet? Cause that is one very nice looking blade. And what does the vinigar do exactly?
No, he has not seen the knife. He doesn't care too much for knives, however, I may make him a smaller knife from some of the steel when I can manage the time.

The vinegar does a couple of things...... It helps to eat the remaining rust from the rust pitting, and helps to remove any foring scale that may have gotten down into those rust pits.

In addition, it gives it a nice patina in order to "help" prevent future rusting problems.

nice Job :)

wood dye maybe on the stag??
Very nice, love the rough weathered look of the blade and the stag color is awsome! What'd you use for die?:thumbup:

Dan and Will,
Fiebing's light brown leather dye. Several coats, and lots of rubbing with a rough cloth. Just when you think you have most of the dye residue rubbed off, some still comes off on your hand. Sealing with tung oil helps.

Robert
 
I know I ought to know but I'll ask anyway. Ray, Robert, what do you mean by" pre form " ? jc

Hey John,
I think what Ray was talking about was to go ahead and rough-profile the blade before starting the forging. By doing a pre-formed profile, you pretty much only forge the bevels and maybe a little distal taper, along with the tang.

On this 3/16" rust pitted steel, you are not going to get all of the pits out (unless you are making a filet knife), so to try and keep the pits even from side to side, you go ahead and profile the blade. This keeps the hammer blows to a minimum around the ricasso and spine.

Ray may have another idea, but that's my thoughts.

Robert
 
Back
Top