Notching for a guard

Kevin McGovern

Kevin McGovern

Joined
Jul 31, 2015
Messages
3,118
I am doing a build with a brass guard. It will be a slotted guard and I am planning on notching the front of the tang to accept it. I am using 1095 and would like a hamon so I'm thinking brine quench. To lesson the chance of breakage, I'm thinking of notching it after heat treat. Will a portaband be able to cut a hardened piece of 1095? I'm thinking the cuts will be no more than 1/4" deep. Answers to this question and general advice appreciated. Thanks.
 
Hardened properly you won't be doing much cutting with a portaband. I would think by radiusing all edges and corners you wouldn't have to worry much about the dreaded "ping" sound. Folks with MUCH more experience than I have can advise about the breakage concerns.

Ken
 
Depending on the size of your ricasso, you could always temper back the area where you will notch the blade with a torch. Keep the blade itself cool with a wet rag. Then file your notch in.
 
Abrasive cutoff wheel mounted on a motor arbor. Preferably with some sort of table mounted
center on the arbor.
Ken.
 
Kevin, Why not trying to finishing your blade in the ricasso area to a smooth surface and fit your slotted guard very tightly and then drill two holes through both the guard and the blade. After heat treat finish the ricasso area lightly to the finish you want and pin the guard in place. It won't go anywhere when the knife is used. I have done this many times with no problems. Larry

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kc custom said:
Abrasive cutoff wheel mounted on a motor arbor. Preferably with some sort of table mounted
center on the arbor.
Ken.
Click to expand...

that's how I do it,
I think notching is a solid way and can be used in Lieu of pinning

I also like it because it gives you a top saddle look

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Last edited:
Of course, you could also pre notch and fill that notch up with Satanite or whatever you are using to get your hamon for the HT.
 
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