Number 8 done.

Strig,

The blade is 6+1/8". The handle is 5". I'm going to update that sheath thread as soon as I finish cleaning up the knife so stay tuned. I did not make a sheath for this one. As you said, it would be a bit odd for a kitchen knife. I told her I could make her a block but she doesn't think she has the space for it. We'll see. The knife is very comfortable and slender. It balances on your finger just behind the choil. There is no primary bevel on the blade as you may be able to tell from the picture. The side bevel is a continuous convex slope to the cutting edge.



Darrin,

Since you and Stacy and probably a few others recommend the Corbys I'm going to look into that for the future. There are some applications though, like this one, where I really wanted a smaller diameter pin for the look. If I can get small diameter Corbys that would definitely be an option to consider. As far as pin placement goes, I have to give credit where it's due. I think I was influenced by Ryan Weeks and his interesting pin arrangements. I of course didn't copy any of his stuff but I was impressed with his creativity.
 
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bladsmth said:
With hidden pins as you described it will be much stronger, so it might be OK.

What happens when someone who has just tossed their knives in the wash pan in the sink or the dishwasher basket for the past 40 years gets a lovely custom knife like yours????.......they treat it well for a while, and then do the same as they have always done with knives in the past... toss it in the dishwasher or sink. A good soak in hot soapy water or even one trip through the dishwasher can make the lovely handle look dull and raise the scales right off the rivets. Sometimes the scales crack in half. I have had fillet knives with 10 rivets lift when sent through the dishwasher. This is why I now use Corby bolts on nearly all my kitchen cutlery.

Even with the papers I provide with each knife describing how to wash a custom knife and emphasizing to "NEVER PUT IN THE DISHWASHER", I get back about one a year that made the trip through with the spoons and forks.
Click to expand...
I don't make kitchen knives, this is one reason why.... but right now I have about a dozen from other makers/manufacturers on my workbench for repair. Most are going to be a complete rehandle.

I abhor what people do with fine kitchen knives.

-Eric
 
Oh, and great work there OP. I love it. I trust she will treasure it!

I use a lot of similar hidden pins in user knives. Purely when aesthetics trump construction. I rarely have a problem.

Of course, like Stacy said, a compression type fastener is always preferable.

-Eric
 
i4Marc said:
Strig,

The blade is 6+1/8". The handle is 5". I'm going to update that sheath thread as soon as I finish cleaning up the knife so stay tuned. I did not make a sheath for this one. As you said, it would be a bit odd for a kitchen knife. I told her I could make her a block but she doesn't think she has the space for it. We'll see. The knife is very comfortable and slender. It balances on your finger just behind the choil. There is no primary bevel on the blade as you may be able to tell from the picture. The side bevel is a continuous convex slope to the cutting edge.
Click to expand...

I'll be watching.

If there aren't any children or wild animals about the house, you could always make a small wall block. Think thin(ish) burl bored out on the back side with a neo magnet inside. Would be easier than a block, but a special place for it to be shown off. Wouldn't have to worry about the blade magnetizing either.

Just a thought. :)
 
Strigamort said:
I'll be watching.

If there aren't any children or wild animals about the house, you could always make a small wall block. Think thin(ish) burl bored out on the back side with a neo magnet inside. Would be easier than a block, but a special place for it to be shown off. Wouldn't have to worry about the blade magnetizing either.

Just a thought. :)
Click to expand...
I've been playing with magnets and sheaths lately, as well as using them in some box mods for the vaping community, but that would be a cool display setup... I may have to use that one... hope you don't mind... :)

-Eric
 
Really nice knife!! The idea of using threaded rod for hidden pins is something I'll be copying. I have some friends who are serious foodies and one who is an executive chef at a Vegas casino. They have all been asking me about knives but, kitchen knives seem way beyond any skills I'll be having for a while.

Bob
 
bladsmth said:
They make Corby bolts in several metal types and from 3/8" down to 1/8".
Click to expand...



Stacy, I ordered stainless corbys in 1/8" but I can't seem to find any step drills or counterbores that have the same dimensions. Any sources or links you can share to help me locate them?


These are the specs:


.095" Shaft .180" long shaft
.125" Shoulder .150" long shoulders
.170" long thread
Over all length is .530"
 
i4Marc said:
Stacy, I ordered stainless corbys in 1/8" but I can't seem to find any step drills or counterbores that have the same dimensions. Any sources or links you can share to help me locate them?


These are the specs:


.095" Shaft .180" long shaft
.125" Shoulder .150" long shoulders
.170" long thread
Over all length is .530"
Click to expand...

You can make the counterbore with a flat bottomed drill. YouTube, toms techniques has a good how to vid.
 
That is a sweet design executed well. Good job!


One of these days, I gotta get a custom kitchen knife....

:)
 
My method:
Use a pilot bit and a counterbore. I have found that using a one piece drill to drill the shank and head seat at the same time always has problems. I also always make the tang holes in the blade at least 50% larger than the rivet. This gives "wiggle room" during glue-up. While I usually pre-shape the scales profile a bit, I leave the scales oversize as far as width to make sure there aren't problems later on. I grind my scales to the blade after drilling and fitting the bolts. I grind a hollowed out area down the tang center, or drill a lot of extra holes for the epoxy to pool in. If you leave the tang and scales flat, all the epoxy will get squeezed out. Additionally, tape up the blade to within 1/4" of the handle.

Pre-drilling - Mark all the tang holes that get Corby bolts on the outside of one scale.
1) Drill the front shank pilot hole through both scales, using a sharp bit in the shank size. This is done with the scales firmly clamped together and not on the tang. This assures that the holes on both sides are aligned exactly.
2) Run the counterbore in the holes on both scales to make the seat for the head. The smooth smaller tip of the counterbore slips in the pilot hole and makes the head seat exactly centered with the shank to prevent any problems. If needed open up the holes a tad so the bolt goes in smoothly.
3) Put the scales on the tang and slip a bolt in the front holes, thus clamping the scales together. It is usually necessary to put them on the tang to get the bolts to snug up. Just run them finger tight, don't tighten hard.
4) Drill the rear pilot hole and head seats as above. Install rear bolt.
5) Drill and install any other bolts.
6) Once all are bolts are drilled and fitted, grind the scales to within 1/8" to 1/16" of the tang. Leave this bit of slop for later shaping after gluing the scales on. Take off the scales and bolt together to sand and polish the front of the handle while off the blade. You can't get to that area without messing up the blade once the handle is on. The front of the handle needs to be fully done before glue-up.
7) Glue the scales and bolts in place with slow cure epoxy, preferably 24 hour cure type. DO NOT USE FIVE MINUITE EPOXY. Put on rubber gloves and lay down newspaper, too. You will need time to put in the bolts and tighten them evenly for a gap free and perfect handle fit. Put epoxy on the female bolts and slip them in seats on one scale. Don't get any resin in the thread socket. Apply epoxy to the tang and set over the female bolts. Apply resin to the exposed tang side and place on the other scale. Put resin on the male bolts and slip in the holes. Turn them one at a time until all have been started and turn freely. Go up and down the row tightening until all are just snug. Use a small screwdriver to evenly snug them down. Don't tighten hard - just snug. Wipe off the squeezed out epoxy and inspect the seam for gaps. Loosen and adjust if needed. Wipe off any excess resin at the ricasso on the blade with acetone, and set aside to cure. Check in one hour and wipe off any resin that has crept out at the ricasso, then set aside to cure overnight.
8) Grind the handle flush with the tang once fully cured.
9) Cut off the excess bolts with a hack saw. Grinding the excess off may create too much heat and burn the handle . Go slow in shaping the bolts areas as you shape the handle....especially stainless bolts, as they get hot fast. Finish shaping and sanding the handle.

This method always gets a perfect alignment and makes re-assembly during glue-up a breeze.

Notes:
For a 1/8" counterbore. I just put a short 1/8" bit in the drill press and use a diamond file/plate to turn down the last 1/4" to .095". It literally only takes a few seconds. This method works for any size Corby. I often break off dull/damaged bits and make a batch at a time. I grind the end flat with a small chamfer.

Holes in the scales that are a tad snug can be opened up with cylinder burrs ( 1/8" and 3/32" for 1/8" Corbys) in the drill press or by hand in a flex shaft or Dremel.

USA Knifemakers sells a carbide 1/8" counterbore for 1/8" Corby bolts, and other sizes, but they are crazy expensive....and perfectly serviceable ones are so cheap and easy to make for any size you need.
 
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