Number three.

Yea, being a hunter and Carpenter working out in the snow for forty plus years, I'm pretty familiar with Sno-Seal and Mink oil.
I appreciate the advice, but like I said, "I don't think waxing is for me".
I just want to make some simple and functional sheaths for my hobby knives, and was wondering what others used.

Charlie
 
Agreed, most of the Pine pitch/Bees wax blends are good stuff for boots.
I've used Hubards for years but it's hard to find anymore so I switched to MT pitch blend.
Good stuff for sure, but again, I use it on my boots.
Can't imagine a knife sheath that takes the same beating a pair of hunting/work boots do. ;>)

Guess I should have been more specific, but I asked the question because the leather gets so stiff after wet forming I'd think that softening it up a little would be a good thing and Neets seems to help.
Don't know for sure though, so that's why I asked.

One things for sure. I definatly won't be doing anything that involves a crock pot or blow dryer. :)

Charlie
 
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Charlie, personally I prefer " so stiff after wet molding".... leather will soften up with use in due time, creating it's own character....listen to me, what do I think I am, an artist ??!!....but I certainly wouldn't want it to stay plastic hard all it's life.
 
Thanks RB
That's kjnda what I was thinking.
After all, the idea of wet forming is for the sheath to conform and hold onto the knife so it doesn't make much sence to soften it to much.
I'll stick with a good rub down (not a bath, just a rub down) with Neets, and concentrate on my design and technique instead.

Thanks again to all.
Charlie
 
Just one more thing...just a suggestions since this is just a matter of preference.
At the mouth of the pouch, how bout a border line like in this picture. I've always felt...well actually, I learned to feel, that leather with no border, especially with no stitch line nearby...looks like it was cut there as an after thought....follow? Again, just a suggestion.....unless you're meaning to start a Leather Without Borders movement or something....:D
 

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Now that's nice!
I appreciate nice stampings and basketweve, but there's allot to be said for simplicity.
I just started putting some Bone scales on a little drop point skinner today. so I'll try that on it's sheath.
Am I correct in "assuming" that's something I can do with my little stitch grover?

I also have a question on the thread used on that sheath.
Is it braided or twisted, and what size?
I'd like to try some lighter colored thread like that, and I read somewhere that braided was better, so I might as well get the good stuff when I order, (if braided is indeed better).

Oh yea, what color and brand is the dye? I've been using Fiebings Saddle Tan.
I like it well enough but always open to suggestions.
PITA,, aint I?

Thanks
Charlie
 
Charlie, I use a stitching machine and I get the thread in black, white, and a couple different browns. It's size 277 bonded nylon and I use it when I have to hand stitch too. ( Google " The Thread Connection", I would send you the link but I'll get dinged here (again) if I do.)
The dye is Feibings Pro Oil Light Brown. I cut my dyes 50/50 with denatured alcohol. BTW, thats horsehide you see there too, finished in Feibings Resoline, also cut 50/50 with water. I like Saddle tan too.
And yes I use a stitch groover for them borders.....and no, you're not a PITA
 
This, too, is simple...and you're correct, sometimes simple says a lot more. This was done with my stitching groover, a spoon modeler, and a single stamp. Don't mind the wavering line towards the toe...this was my 2nd sheath :).
DSCN3600.jpg


When you make your lines with your stitch groover, you can either leave them alone or do what I did with a spoon tool and bevel each side, kinda adds a different flair to the line.

Most thread used in sheath making is twisted, for hand stitching anyway. I don't know the size I use, but you can get little "cards" of prewaxed thread at Hobby Lobby in natural, brown and black....like 25 yards for a buck or so. It's twisted and of decent weight. I bought it to start with and I like it...it'll hold me till I get a spool of linen thread ordered.

I recommend Fiebings dyes as well as their Pro Oil versions. I use light brown, dark brown and black for now. I've been itching to get a bottle of oxblood red to add to the brown for a nice reddish brown...love that color.

There are also several natural dyes you can make at home. The most popular is vinegaroon...which is a reagent not a dye. Beautiful deep black that will not leach out or fade.
 
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