- Joined
- Oct 17, 1999
- Messages
- 122
So....can I treat O-1 myself? I've never done heat treating and have no equipment. Can I use a torch? Is there a site on the net that gives comprehensive directions?
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O-1 revisited.
- Thread starter UPSTARTCROWE
- Start date
- Joined
- Jun 27, 1999
- Messages
- 804
Bob Engnath had some very clear instructions on heat treating 01. You can do it with a torch, depending on the size of the piece. The instructions are available @ http://www.engnath.com/
Hope this helps.
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Oz
"I'm politically opposed to the word 'Impossible'."
http://www.freespeech.org/oz/
Hope this helps.
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Oz
"I'm politically opposed to the word 'Impossible'."
http://www.freespeech.org/oz/
Get a big torch, not a little butane one, heat to cherry, quench in oil. buff scale off with a wire wheel, heat to straw color and let air cool. thats how my machinist friend did 3 for me. edge holding ok, and kinda easy to resharpen. Not the best way to do it, but it will give you some practice!
- Joined
- Sep 13, 1999
- Messages
- 26
If you have a coal forge, O1 hardening is relatively easy. Heat the blade to cherry read in a steel tube placed on the fire, then rapidly quench in oil. Let cool in air and double temper at 200 Centigrades in your wife's oven (1 hour and a half each time). A hardness of 58 HRc can be achieved.
Hope this helps.
Claude
Hope this helps.
Claude
Allen Blade
BANNED
- Joined
- Oct 29, 1999
- Messages
- 498
Hello,
Remember to take the blade to its critical temperature, which is its NON-MAGNETIC stage,
DO not,, i repeat DO not try to judge the Temp or color by EYE,,,,, a magnet is the most reliable way to test carbon non stainless blades for critical quenching temp. Anyother way is a guess.
my formula for 01 :
Take blade heat to non magnetic stage,,,,,quench in 130 Degree oil bath of
50% Vetrinarian grade mineral oil and 50%
olive oil mix. DO NOT aggitate blade in the oil, wait tell all action of the oil bubbling has stopped,,take out of oil,,inspect for warpage(which there shouldnt be if it was ground true with out stress build ups) return to oil until at comforatable to handle, TEMPER immediatly
at 375 degrees for 2 hours,,alow to cool to room temp,,,then another 2 hours at 350 Degrees,, allow to cool,,then another 2 hours at 325 degrees. Gives a rockwell of 59/60Rc with Great Toughness .
my .02
allen
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Allen Blade
Spokane,WA USA
" You can make great knives and sell a few, Or make Great AFFORDABLE knives and sell many"
WEB SITE : http://hometown.aol.com/bladecutlery/index.html
Remember to take the blade to its critical temperature, which is its NON-MAGNETIC stage,
DO not,, i repeat DO not try to judge the Temp or color by EYE,,,,, a magnet is the most reliable way to test carbon non stainless blades for critical quenching temp. Anyother way is a guess.
my formula for 01 :
Take blade heat to non magnetic stage,,,,,quench in 130 Degree oil bath of
50% Vetrinarian grade mineral oil and 50%
olive oil mix. DO NOT aggitate blade in the oil, wait tell all action of the oil bubbling has stopped,,take out of oil,,inspect for warpage(which there shouldnt be if it was ground true with out stress build ups) return to oil until at comforatable to handle, TEMPER immediatly
at 375 degrees for 2 hours,,alow to cool to room temp,,,then another 2 hours at 350 Degrees,, allow to cool,,then another 2 hours at 325 degrees. Gives a rockwell of 59/60Rc with Great Toughness .
my .02
allen
------------------
Allen Blade
Spokane,WA USA
" You can make great knives and sell a few, Or make Great AFFORDABLE knives and sell many"
WEB SITE : http://hometown.aol.com/bladecutlery/index.html