O-1 tool steel quenchant?

PocketEdge

PocketEdge

Joined
Dec 23, 2008
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I make small slipjoint blades in O-1 tool steel

I have recently decided to upgrade from my mini one brick forge to a Evenheat Kiln. It hasn't arrived yet but I also want to improve my quench oil as well. I have been using canola oil and i'm considering my options. From my reading, Park AAA is well thought of for O-1 and so is Tough Quench. However, I would like to keep my quench tank to about 2 gallons seeing Im quenching blades that are 3/32" x 3". My thought is that would be sufficient volume to keep a steady temp with such small blades going in. Second, heating 2 gallons to 130 degrees would be much easier than 5 gallons.

So first, park AAA comes in 5 gallon only from what I see and I don't want to split it and try selling and shipping it. Second, 2 gallons of Tough Quench is $160 with shipping.

So, keeping in mind that I'm working with such small blades, Should I go for the Tough Quench or with something else? My understanding of O-1 is that it is forgiving. So how about Mineral Oil or peanut oil or McMaster Carr 28 second oil for $14 a gallon?

I got a kiln to improve my blades. I don't want to short change myself by going cheap on oil but I also know that we sometimes get in a trap of thinking there is something magical about some products because we have read something by someone we respect.

So bite the bullet? Someone have 2 gallons of Park AAA to sell me? I want to get the best results possible. Thanks for any help!
 
I'd go with the McMaster Carr 28 second oil if I was ordering now (I have AAA myself). O1 doesn't need a fast oil so a medium speed real quench oil would suit it just fine.

The main problem with O1 is the need for a correct soak but the Evenheat should make that trivial.

You might also want to consider Brownel's liquid anti-scaling compound.
 
You can get quench oil but vegetable oil works too, even w/o warming. O1 doesn't need a fast quench to reach full hardness.
 
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Canola oil would likely do well on 01, but real quench oil would be best. Parks AAA, or something similar. Which ever, it would be best to heat the oil. This thins the oil and reduces the time the vapor jacket exists, and that makes for a more even cooling, which reduces warp and stresses. Warps and cracking are caused more by uneven cooling than any other factor. If you choose to buy AAA, I will buy a gallon of it from you. Maybe two. Let me know what you decide.
 
The advantage of a "real" quench oil with O1 will be somewhat less warping. It doesn't need a fast oil to beat the nose, and a very fast oil could be too fast. I used to use chainsaw bar oil because its high flash point and it was on the shelf (ducking and running away). As far as cooling fast enough, any oil will work for O1.
 
If you just do a few small blades at a time, you sould be fine with a 1 gallon tank, and Brownells Tough Quench in one gallon cans is 57.99 plus shipping. I use a one gallon tank, and have done two fixed blades at a time with no problems. I read some place that you need a gallon of oil for each pound of steel quenched, not sure if that is correct, just remember reading it.
 
With quench oil, a bit too much is greatly better than not enough.
 
Thanks to everyone that responded. I am ordering 2 gallons of McMaster Carr 28 sec. oil.
 
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