O1 Heat Treat Issues - Help Please

Warfleigh Forge said:
Wait, didn't you say that the splotches were there pre-etch? I'm going with the theory of a bit of grease or oil was on there, it doesnt look like decarb that I've seen with O1 before
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Yes, I’m preaty sure I’ve seen them right after heat treat.
I’m thinking if they were caused by grease or oil, they would have disapeared after the acid etch.
I actually did some finishing grinding after HT.
So they must be deep into the steel. It’s a mistery allright.

I remember reading here on the forums a discussion between known bladesmiths, mentioning
these blotches being caused by overheating during HT. Unfortunately I can’t find that thread and
don’t remember who was the person(s) explaining the reason for this.
 
godogs57 said:
I'm sorry...I'm not understanding the whole "soak" issue. I've seen several makers talking about a 20-30 minute soak on a blade. Other accomplished makers bring their blade up to non-magnetic and quench right then and there, which is what I do in my forge. There might be nothing left of my blade if I left it in my forge for 30 minutes.....I am missing something in the discussion obviously, as there are two distinct lines of thought on proper ht of O1 (and other carbon steels). I am friends with two Mastersmiths and they both tell me the same thing....quench shortly after you reach non-magnetic...maybe ten seconds or so. I am primarily a stock removal CPM154 guy but forge carbon occasionally in between orders for something different to do. What am I missing here?
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The knife will perform better with a soak. If using a forge pid controls help keep the temp right. Hard to soak in a forge without pid controls.
 
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Spalted said:
The knife will perform better with a soak. If using a forge pid controls help keep the temp right. Hard to soak in a forge without pid controls.
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Sorry Britt_Askew Britt_Askew , I don’t understand your reference. I think you are saying that my answer is in godogs57’s reply? I’m using an Evenheat HT oven and a soak is needed with O1.
Please elaborate, if you don’t mind. Thanks in advance.
 
pssst, Heki00, I think he was just responding to godogs question,,,,,
 
I just briefly glanced through the thread.

O1 tool steel. Assuming this isn’t forged O1 so we don’t have to address that.

Or do we?

Let’s say “NO”.

Want to heat treat O1 with a temp controlled oven. Check.

Coat in ATP641. Even coat. Use a hair dryer to dry it. Not necessary. I do it. Works superbly.

Skip preheats. Knives don’t need them. Especially a low alloy carbon steel like O1. Get the kiln to 1475f-1490f and let it sit there for a while to ensure that is the actual temp inside without any over heating. 20 minutes should be fine

Insert the blade. Allow 2 minutes (thereabout) for the blade temp to come up to the target temp. Begin a 20 minute soak. No more than 30. 20 should be plenty, if the knife has a lot of mass, do 30 minutes.

Quench in a medium speed oil. 130f canola works. Should be ~65-66hrc post quench. Temper as desired. 400f should give ~62hrc.
 
samuraistuart said:
I just briefly glanced through the thread.

O1 tool steel. Assuming this isn’t forged O1 so we don’t have to address that.

Or do we?

Let’s say “NO”.

Want to heat treat O1 with a temp controlled oven. Check.

Coat in ATP641. Even coat. Use a hair dryer to dry it. Not necessary. I do it. Works superbly.

Skip preheats. Knives don’t need them. Especially a low alloy carbon steel like O1. Get the kiln to 1475f-1490f and let it sit there for a while to ensure that is the actual temp inside without any over heating. 20 minutes should be fine

Insert the blade. Allow 2 minutes (thereabout) for the blade temp to come up to the target temp. Begin a 20 minute soak. No more than 30. 20 should be plenty, if the knife has a lot of mass, do 30 minutes.

Quench in a medium speed oil. 130f canola works. Should be ~65-66hrc post quench. Temper as desired. 400f should give ~62hrc.
Click to expand...

Perfect, thank you!
 
Heli00 sorry about that, I accidentally hit reply to early o_O
 
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