O1 in the kitchen

C

colson

Joined
Aug 30, 2016
Messages
11
I hope I am posting in the right forum as I am new to the site and knife making.
I have made a few knives over the last year or so ( hunters , puukos and neck knives ) using hand tools as I am yet to purchase a belt grinder ( when funds allow ).

I have been using primarily O1 and N690 and sending them of to heat treat at Bohler. Everything I have learnt has been off YouTube and lots of reading and so far have made a few very usable knives .

Can someone please advise me on whether I could use O1 to make a small kitchen knife / couple of paring knives.
Everything I have read on O1 says it does not distort as much as some other steels during heat treat and being that the knife needs to be thin to be a decent slicer and I don't have the means to grind a harden blade could I get the flat grind filed in and Finnish up by sanding?

How would it hold up to kitchen use as I have read that some are made from 1095 and that they have similar corrosion properties.

I would appreciate any advise and am trying to absorb and learn as much information as I can.
I am not planning on selling any of my knives even though I have had offers on my previously made ones , it's a hobby but I try to make things as best as I can and have patience and determination which helps .

I have a background in steelwork and electronics but have always had a passion and respect for knives and their craftsmanship.
Col
 
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i make kitchen knives of O1. They work very well. see what thickness of O1 precision ground flat stock is available. I have made small slicer/paring knives from 1/32", 3/64", and 1/16". if using 1/32 or 3/64, cut to the shape you want and start a bevel. If using 1/16", file your bevel until the edge is about 0.02" thick. ask that they be hardened to Rc62-64. the knives will rust and tarnish if not cleaned and dried immediately after use.
scott
 
O1 is a very good steel for kitchen knives. Keep it dry and clean...over time it will get a nice typical carbon steel patina.
 
Thanks Stezann, going to give it a go .
Only worked with 01 3mm and 4mm thick so have had a little wiggle room to correct minor errors in the last knives I've made.
Looking forward to the challenge as the thinner steel will not be so forgiving.
 
As has been already said - O1 is a very nice steel for kitchen knives.
 
Thanks for the link Matus, that answered a good few things I was trying to solve (like when using the bevelling jig
not to file in the whole bevel ). I usually flip it but was obviously taking the bevels up a bit far before doing so.
I also didn't realise I could take the edge down as narrow prior to heat treat , normally I sand with progressive grits on a
flat granite slab from a 1mm down to my final edge after heat treat.
This will definitely save me a couple of hours.

Thanks for taking the time to help ..
 
You can also force a patina which will add extra protection. I use white vinegar, hydrogen peroxide, and salt. You can sponge it on for a antique patina look, or submerge the whole blade in the solution for a few hours for a full acid etched finish. I have tried letting the bare metal form its own, and it will, but there is a much higher chance of it just rusting before the oxide layer gets set up.
 
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