O1 knifes rusted ?

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Jan 2, 2009
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I left 2 01 mirror polish knives out in the garage. 1 week later they have rust pits in them now. thought i got all pits out so it wouldnt happen. How can i get these out. should i go back to 1000 grit then polish..?
 
I doubt 1000 is fine enough to get out rust pits. you might have to go much coarser.
High carbon steel rusts when left in a moist environment. It doesn't matter how polished it is (tho this will change the rate of rust). Regularly apply some sort of wax or oil to prevent rust.
 
O1 makes a dang good knife, but it will bloom and pit if you look at it funny, and even more if you don't look at it at all for a while. It needs oil or wax to protect a flawless fine finish on it. This is important for knife collectors.

On the other hand, O1 will bloom, pit and patina with use, and not lose one bit of its toughness and ability to cut well, as long as you keep the edge clean and honed. This is important for knife users.
 
What they all said. Although I prefer the look of a hand polished finish, I've noticed that a machine buffed finish doesn't rust quite as quickly.
 
That's true, Steve. Regardless of steel type, the rougher the surface is, the more quickly it will corrode.
 
I noticed rust pits on my knives after a show. Only on one side. Couldn't figure it out. Some one told me it was from people spitting on them as they would bend over and talk as they looked at the knives. He said that's why some put them under glass. Makes sense, huh.
 
You don't have to worry about any of the above if you buy a premium stainless steel blade.

Stainless used to be mediocre but that has changed with the intro of premium stainless steels, however some myths die hard .....
 
I love 01 steel. It is so easy to sharpen. I get a patina after use, and that patina protects from rust. I keep the steel dried on my pant leg, and haven't ever had pitting on a personal knife. I don't store the knives in a sheath.

Hanweii Sword Oil is the best product I've found to protect carbon steel from rust. It sort of dries onto the blade, and it does an excellent job of keeping my 01 pretty till shipping day. I rarely use it on my personals as the patina does the job for those.



I noticed rust pits on my knives after a show. Only on one side. Couldn't figure it out. Some one told me it was from people spitting on them as they would bend over and talk as they looked at the knives. He said that's why some put them under glass. Makes sense, huh.

Dont put your knives under glass. Folks won't pick them up. Wipe them constantly with a rag while you talk to the customer. Watch which ones they handle and wipe them when they leave. Being active at your table invites questions and comments, and draws customers in. Glass is a deal killer. Go ahead and put them under glass, then sit down and rest. Two fatal mistakes. On your feet, and attending to your knives is the way to go.

You don't have to worry about any of the above if you buy a premium stainless steel blade.

Stainless used to be mediocre but that has changed with the intro of premium stainless steels, however some myths die hard .....

While the SS's are greatly improved, they are still an order of magnitude harder to sharpen than 01. They are also more expensive to heat treat, and a real PITA to grind compared to 01.
 
Stainless used to be mediocre but that has changed with the intro of premium stainless steels, however some myths die hard .....

I think those myths are fading out pretty rapidly, actually (which is good for all of us). My clients who want carbon steel know exactly why they want it, and so do the folks who want more alloy. Ease of sharpening vs. edge-retention is by far the most common deciding factor.
 
You don't have to worry about any of the above if you buy a premium stainless steel blade.

Stainless used to be mediocre but that has changed with the intro of premium stainless steels, however some myths die hard .....

I don't think that people are avoiding stainless because they think it's inferior. Cost plays a bigger role IMO. Not only cost to the maker (initial material cost, cost to heat treat, cost to machine, etc...) the the cost to the customer is typically much higher than a comparable knife made from a carbon steel, or even a basic tool steel like O1.

Personally, I prefer to work with 1095 because it holds a great edge, is easy to sharpen, and I am equipped to heat treat it. There's also something to be said about a nice patina. It shows the knife is a user, and not just a drawer filler. Not to mention the ability to form a hamon.
For bladesmiths (which I currently am not, but would like to one day be equipped for) it's substantially easier to forge than most "forgeable" stainless steels.
 
Stainless is a phase... like bellbottom slacks and feathered hair. Real steel rusts and eventually goes back to the earth.

Stainless takes the "stain" out of sustainability. :p

Rick:)
 
I use car wax on my o-1 knives if I'm storing them, I'v had one sitting in my basement for 1yr with out rusting.
 
I use Frog lube on my knives I works great !!!! and it is safe if you use your knife when cutting food
 
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